This is what I was indicating in an earlier post. You want to "dead end" the suction side of the pump into a vacuum gauge. You don't want any rubber fuel line except the small sections necessary to connect the gauge into it. This test is not to use trying to start the engine; only to test the integrity of the pump itself on the suction side.
I had about an hour and a half this weekend to work on the truck, so next update:
hooked a vacuum gauge up to the inlet side of the pump. attempted to pump it up, and it held for about 5 seconds. Pulled the pump off, and tried it again, blocking the output side. Still held for only seconds. Took the fuel pump back and got another.
for a variety of reasons, I didn't get to test the pump while out of the truck. Mounted it one day, being careful not to crack it, and the next day got to test. Pumped to 10 inches of vacuum, it holds for 10 minutes. Not sure if that's good or not.
I hooked up the complete fuel system (too damn cold to crawl in the dirt under the truck and disconnect the fuel line to run it into the gas can if I don't have to, and I've repeatedly checked all those connections with soapy water... not that soapy water found the bad lift pump), primed it until there were no bubbles, opened the first three injectors and cranked it over with the starter for 5 seconds.
Then I opened the bleeder nut. air came out.
repeat operation. next time less air came out.
repeat operation. this time the truck started up for about 10 seconds, running very poorly. injector 1 and 3 spraying diesel everywhere, but lots of fine bubbles running down the nut. checked the bleeder, no air came out this time.
repeat again. exactly the same results as the previous time.
Repeat this about a dozen times with the same results. On one occasion a small amount of bubbles came out the bleeder. On every occasion, the 1 and 3 injectors spew diesel and lots of fine bubbles.
Since nothing was changing, I went a different route.
crank the truck over for 5 seconds, or until it starts, then when it dies, open each injector in turn, starting at the front.
This results in various injectors leaking bubbles and diesel as they get opened. Most of the time, the engine starts and runs poorly for about 10-15 seconds. number 2 and number 6 injectors never spew anything.
then I decided I was cold, and nothing I was doing was making any difference. If I knew I was accomplishing something, I'd be fine with continuing, but the 30th attempt produced exactly the same results (which injector produces diesel and bubbles seems to be relative to where the engine stops in its timing cycle).
Sigh.. it seems like the hardest part of this swap is going to be getting the fuel system to work.
So again I'm wondering 1) if I have a leak still, 2) If I do, how do I find it, and now 3) apparently 2 injectors aren't getting any fuel; how do I fix that?
Thank you again