91 cummins in 69 crewcab dodge - Page 3 - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-09-2013, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by memrys View Post
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"VE" series pump. Try to follow the original suggestions and make attempt to keep it idling. Try to ensure the idle cutoff solenoid is opening fully. Some of those you could manually override with a cable to keep open without power.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Per your suggestion, I went out and cracked the bleeder open. It's been 27 hours since I was last cranking the engine. Diesel dripped out, but no air bubbles. Good sign?
Thanks.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 06:05 PM
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Per your suggestion, I went out and cracked the bleeder open. It's been 27 hours since I was last cranking the engine. Diesel dripped out, but no air bubbles. Good sign?
Thanks.
Very good sign. Now close the bleeder and crank it up. Let it idle and keep an eye on coolant as the temp comes up.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-14-2013, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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today's update:
Checked the bleeder again, still no air bubbles after a week.
opened up all 6 injectors and cranked it a couple of times.
closed all but the first 3 from the front. Engine fired up and ran very poorly.
#2 injector not producing anything. #1 and #3 begin spraying diesel all over the underside of the hood and the rest of the engine bay. closed them off. Engine smoothed out considerably.
closed off #2. no change. opened number 2. it started leaking diesel and bubbles. closed it off again. engine died. would not restart until I repeated the above process.
I figured out that the fuel line to #2 is a very tight fit. undoing the nut is not enough to open it. I have to pull on it a bit to back it off. then foam comes out.
Also, through trial and error, I discover that if I hold that open so the foam is coming out, the engine will run. It idles, and can rev up, just as long as I hold the #2 injector line such that it's not fully tight on the injector so the foam comes out.
Also through trial and error, I discovered that if I have the #1 injector open, and I let the #2 injector close, the #1 injector will stop spraying the inside of the engine bay with diesel. if I hold the #2 injector open, #1 injector sprays diesel.
I closed up all injectors but #2 and let the engine idle for 20 minutes to get good and hot. Temp gauge is not yet hooked up, so I don't know where it was, but it was pretty hot trying to hold that injector line open, and the diesel that was all over the exhaust side of the engine was smoking nicely.
After 20 minutes, I closed the injector, and in about 45 seconds, the engine died again.
At that point, I decided it was once again time to regale folks more knowledgeable than I with the tale and await further advice.
I checked the bleeder again. still no air there.

Thanks
John
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-14-2013, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memrys View Post
today's update:
Checked the bleeder again, still no air bubbles after a week.
opened up all 6 injectors and cranked it a couple of times.
closed all but the first 3 from the front. Engine fired up and ran very poorly.
#2 injector not producing anything. #1 and #3 begin spraying diesel all over the underside of the hood and the rest of the engine bay. closed them off. Engine smoothed out considerably.
closed off #2. no change. opened number 2. it started leaking diesel and bubbles. closed it off again. engine died. would not restart until I repeated the above process.
I figured out that the fuel line to #2 is a very tight fit. undoing the nut is not enough to open it. I have to pull on it a bit to back it off. then foam comes out.
Also, through trial and error, I discover that if I hold that open so the foam is coming out, the engine will run. It idles, and can rev up, just as long as I hold the #2 injector line such that it's not fully tight on the injector so the foam comes out.
Also through trial and error, I discovered that if I have the #1 injector open, and I let the #2 injector close, the #1 injector will stop spraying the inside of the engine bay with diesel. if I hold the #2 injector open, #1 injector sprays diesel.
I closed up all injectors but #2 and let the engine idle for 20 minutes to get good and hot. Temp gauge is not yet hooked up, so I don't know where it was, but it was pretty hot trying to hold that injector line open, and the diesel that was all over the exhaust side of the engine was smoking nicely.
After 20 minutes, I closed the injector, and in about 45 seconds, the engine died again.
At that point, I decided it was once again time to regale folks more knowledgeable than I with the tale and await further advice.
I checked the bleeder again. still no air there.

Thanks
John
Pull your pump and send it into the shop. The distributor section in the rear has gone bad from this garbage diesel fuel available. Your latest scenario is what I was going for but no way to isolate without actually being there. Most likely the rollers, or cam ring has gone bad as these do pretty well with constant fuel flow, but setting unused with biodiesel is detrimental to their existence. Those pumps are not really expensive to rebuild and will probably be around $750.00. The replacement parts will be of much better quality than the originals. If that injector line nut is not free spinning in your hand when loose, replace the line as it's probably twisted. This will only give you problems later from imbalance of the injection stroke.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-25-2013, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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update:
Thank you all for your help and advice. Last time I got to play with it, I wound up tapping the number 2 injector with a wrench. Then went through the bleeding process. 6 injectors open, then the first 3, only now the number 2 injector was also spewing diesel everywhere.
closed them all off with it running like crap, revved it up with it running like crap and after about a minute, it smoothed out. After that, it ran like a top for a half hour.
Next week, I'll grease up the driveshaft and see how my ford clutch master is working with my dodge slave. It's REALLY stiff, but if it's functional, I can live with it for now.
Didn't have any time to work on it last weekend because I obtained a 91 dodge w250 parts truck with the dana 60 axles and 6" lift kit springs. It also has the clutch slave and master, if mine don't work, I can hopefully cut out the mounting surface for the dodge master and put it in.
now that it's running, it feels close, but I still have to
swap axles and springs
figure out how I'm going to mate the 69 steering gearbox to the 91 steering knuckle
get u-joints that are 91 dodge on one side and 69 dodge on the other
permanently mount my fuel tank
come up with a fuel filler neck that takes a gas cap
pull out my radiator and fix the leaks in it.
get all the electrical sorted out. still have to find a point in the 69 under hood wiring mess that actually has 12 volts when the starter is cranking. or just wire a starter button for the starter. and headlights and turn signals and gauges would all be nice to have.
modify my grille so it fits.

but it feels a lot closer to driving than it did 3 weeks ago :-)
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-27-2013, 04:53 PM
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Today's update:
YEEHAW!!
Today I went out, turned the key, hot-wired the starter, and it started right up. Then, for the first time since I've had the truck, it moved under its own power. I drove it around the yard a bit, and then parked it next to the parts truck I picked up last weekend.
Which brings me to my next question, for those of you still reading this thread:
I bought the parts truck because it seems universally known that the dana 44 axles will not hold up long to the cummins. And the springs are not happy. I figured I'd get the parts truck and its springs and then get a lift kit later. As it turns out, the parts truck already has a 6" lift. yay!
So the front springs on the 91 cummins parts truck are 48" long, 2.5" wide and 35" outside to outside. The springs on the 69 dodge are 48" long, 2.5" wide, and 35" outside to outside.
The difference is that on the 91, the shackles are in the front, and on the 69, the shackles are in the back.
According to measurements, and the suspension guys I'd talked to when I thought I was going to have to custom build a lift kit and buy custom built springs for the truck, the 91 cummins springs are centered on the axle, same distance and same weight distribution in front of and behind the axles. measurements show this to be true as well.
Is there any particular reason that I'm not thinking of that I couldn't just turn the springs around?
I've been asked for pics of the truck, so here they are:



http://s903.photobucket.com/user/mem...bile%20Uploads

Last edited by memrys; 12-31-2013 at 12:07 AM. Reason: pictures didn't work.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memrys View Post
Today's update:
YEEHAW!!
Today I went out, turned the key, hot-wired the starter, and it started right up. Then, for the first time since I've had the truck, it moved under its own power. I drove it around the yard a bit, and then parked it next to the parts truck I picked up last weekend.
Which brings me to my next question, for those of you still reading this thread:
I bought the parts truck because it seems universally known that the dana 44 axles will not hold up long to the cummins. And the springs are not happy. I figured I'd get the parts truck and its springs and then get a lift kit later. As it turns out, the parts truck already has a 6" lift. yay!
So the front springs on the 91 cummins parts truck are 48" long, 2.5" wide and 35" outside to outside. The springs on the 69 dodge are 48" long, 2.5" wide, and 35" outside to outside.
The difference is that on the 91, the shackles are in the front, and on the 69, the shackles are in the back.
According to measurements, and the suspension guys I'd talked to when I thought I was going to have to custom build a lift kit and buy custom built springs for the truck, the 91 cummins springs are centered on the axle, same distance and same weight distribution in front of and behind the axles. measurements show this to be true as well.
Is there any particular reason that I'm not thinking of that I couldn't just turn the springs around?
I've been asked for pics of the truck, so here they are:



http://s903.photobucket.com/user/mem...bile%20Uploads
If the center pin of the springs are equidistant from spring eye to spring eye, you can. If there is any difference in the measurement it won't work to well due to steering geometry.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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It's been a while since I put anything in this thread, so I thought I'd post an update:
This is what the truck looked like 2 weeks ago. The engine runs, transmission moves, clutch works (but is really stiff. ford master, dodge slave), 1991 Dodge W250 axles under it now with a 6" lift, brakes are put together, awaiting an adjustable drag link, which I hope will be short enough. the original was 12" long.
then I just need to finish a million details, like wiring, actually mounting the fuel tank, making a fuel filler neck, building an exhaust system, etc.
http://s903.photobucket.com/user/mem...86bb1.jpg.html
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