After many months of waiting, finally have a drag link in. (btw.. I will NEVER order anything from Auto Performance Warehouse again. After 3 months of telling me it was "in process" at the warehouse and they had it in stock, they called to tell me they didn't have the part and couldn't get it.) I wound up using a Chevy adjustable drag link, cutting a half inch off either end and swapping in Dodge tie rod ends. Actually wound up cheaper than the Dodge link which I wasn't sure would be short enough anyway.
When I pulled the rear drums to figure out why it seemed like there wasn't enough braking, I found that both rear axle seals were toast. The passenger side looked like it had been dipped in an oil bath. So now the rear axle has new seals, seal saver, new brakes, new wheel cylinders. brake pedal still goes to the floor though.
I know the master is good because when I drove it around the yard on the old axles, it stopped (amazingly) with the brakes. When I upgraded the axles to the 91 axles, I took the proportioning valves, metering valves, etc. and plumbed them in.
I'm getting fluid and no air when I bleed the brakes, but it's more of a dribble than a spurt when opening the bleeder. Pedal goes most of the way to the floor, and while I can feel some resistance to turning the tires by hand, it's not very much. theoretically, I shouldn't be able to turn them by hand with the brake pedal down.
If I can get the brakes to work, it should be ready to drive around the yard again.
Then it'll be on to wiring lights and properly mounting some stuff.