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Ladder bars/tracton block question

2K views 19 replies 9 participants last post by  DFW64 
#1 · (Edited)
So I'm going to be needing some sort of bars. I know Matt (sprman) is fixin to hook me up and can get a fairly good deal on traction blocks/bars from central jersey customs.

I have also seen Farm Boy Fabs stage ones for under 500 and stage 2 for under 6 I think.

Which are better and WHY? I wanna learn here also.

Also whats the difference between the stage 1 and 2 from farm boy?

I will be running the 310, tcm and a built tranny until someone talks enough chit for me to get on the bottle...:wave

Also work at a welding shop and know MANY welders so thats not a big deal welding to the axels...
 
#2 ·
Traction blocks are going to be better in my opinion, but I don't think it makes THAT much of a difference. I have a set of OUO traction blocks/bars waiting to go on.
 
#3 ·
well its about a 4 or 500 dollar difference is why i am wondering
 
#4 ·
If you already have your blocks in the back, and they aren't stacked blocks, I'd say just go with the Farmboy Bars. The difference between the stage 1s and stage 2s are the ends. I'd go stage 2s, I believe they will live a lot longer.
 
#5 ·
I've got 6" icon blocks from my 4.5" kit now...
 
#6 ·
dude........ you know my opinion........... i've seen them both and love mine.

traction block all the way.... I've got personal opinions from someone with farmboys and they say if they had to do it again......... they would go with traction blocks..
 
#8 ·
It incorporates the block as part of the traction block..

here are mine with a 1" block...


 
#9 ·
They will work just as good with a 6" block eh?
 
#11 ·
Farmboy Fab Stage 1 has Teflon Heim joints, self lubricating, made for mild climates, not mud, sand, crap that will mess up joints

Farmboy Fab Stage 2 has Flex joints, greasable, made for harsh climates like mud, sand, crap that could mess up joints. These are rebuildable, will last longer to mud and crap, greasable, and worth the extra money, IMO
 
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#12 ·
Thanks willie...Judging by the last few pictures I have taken I will get the stage 2's if I go that route.. Any input on Trac blocks over normal bars welded to the axels? I dunno why but to me it seems if you weld to the axel thats better than U bolts holding it but I could be wrong
 
#13 ·
Here's rear suspension, in a nutshell, in the mind of Slick Willie:

I'm sure the traction blocks work fine. And I'm also sure they will last a long time, solve axle wrap and traction problems, and don't require as much welding. I'll repeat, I know they work, and they have been proven.

I wouldn't run them, but that's me. I'd rather weld steel to steel. I don't like the idea of tensional/compressional forces against a block that holds my axle to my truck, especially with U bolts anywhere close to a foot long. I'd rather add bars that increase the chances of my axle staying attached to my truck. That's how my mind works.

If I ever had a lift on my truck, I wouldn't have lift blocks either, though. I'd do a shackle flip with stock springs, or lift springs with no blocks, before I would ever do blocks. But I will probably never lift the rear of my truck more than factory F-350 blocks anyway - I'm short, and getting an armpit over my truck bed is hard enough already. :D
 
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#14 ·
HAHA...

Willie, in my head I feel the same way. The massive U bolts area probably the thing that worry me the most. It just seems that in my head the bars to axle will create the least amount of axle wrap period, regardless of price. I'm sure Matt's work great also, just thinking out loud here.


Are there disadvantages to having traac bars welded as appose to trac blocks?
 
#15 · (Edited)
Just thougth I'd add my 2 cents, since I have the traction blocks. What I like about them is, instead of just the axle tube being controlled by the bar, the block itself is attached and cannot shoot out or move in any way, period. It's hard to describe the massive size of them from a side view without a photo, but they are nothing like the standard sized block. Front to back, they must be a foot or more. They go forward of the axle and drop down. Basically, the axle's block-pad is tucked into the corner of a right angle the traction block makes. the other thing is, the way they are designed, it seems like most of the stress is handled by solid steel instead of a weld.

Their size, combined with the new ubolts (that make the stock ones look like they were made out of an unfolded paperclip), and you have a massive support structure under there. Each ubolt also passes through the block in 3 different locations. Seeing them from the front or rear doesn't do them justice. I love them, but HATE blocks in general, if that says anything. The other nice thing, compared to swapping springs is the fact that you keep the factory ride and overloads.

I'm sure the weld on style are nice as well... nothing against them.

Excuse the dirt, and keep in mind, thats a 20" rim, 38" tire, & 9" traction block, for size perspective.

 
#16 · (Edited)
they both are fine and both work.

When i did my lift we upgraded the u-bolts as well to a larger diameter. 3/4" u-bolts increase the clamping force on the axle more than 2000 lbs more than 5/8" u-bolts. I also have lift springs. I don't like blocks that much either which is why i went with lift springs instead of a block set up. 6" is about the max i would ever do a block or even a traction block system.



Again, we highly recommend upgrading to our 3/4” U-bolts to increase the clamping force to the axle 2000 lbs more then 5/8” U-Bolts.
 
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#19 · (Edited)
I guess I'll chime with my setup. As you know I am using the new style Rize bars that are full floating. They feature two heims at the rear for articulation and a full floating front attachment point that allows the suspension to cycle without binding. The front attachment using a large polyeurethane bushing.



The rear encases the U-Bolts bolts preventing them from giving way both from side to side or front to back. I opted for Rize's larger U-Bolts as well as an upgrade.




The boxed design of the bars in my opinion lends itself to a stronger designed than trussed tubing as well and offer a much more presentable appearance in conjunction with the rest of my components.



These also allowed me to run an airbag setup on my truck to help aid in towing heavy loads as this truck does from time to time.
 
#20 ·
OUO the all the way. Here's some shots of mine. 4 inch block, 3/4 inch U-bolts, and adjustable top plates. Notice there is no additional hardware required for the airbag; one bolt through the block and thats it. All in all, it rides and behaves much better than stock.
 

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