Rusty rims - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
Thread Details Posted by indiana lineman, this thread has received 13 replies and been viewed 3658 times.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
indiana lineman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 82
Points: 38,322
Thanks: 59
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Rusty rims

Hello, I've got an older camper that needs some attention in the rim department. Stock white rims that have started to rust. Put new tires on last year, since one blew out going to the Huntington area.
I've looked into powder coating ,but I'm not sure if that would be the best option. Anyone have experience with just sanding and repainting? Not sure what would be the best process to go thru to make something like that last.
indiana lineman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 03:07 AM
Senior Member
 
Weld engineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle of the Mitten, MI
Posts: 1,324
Points: 48,287
Thanks: 866
Thanked 506 Times in 401 Posts
Garage
I'd vote sand or shot blast and powder coat. Rust in the bead seats leads to slow leaks or eventual pin holes. Check out craigslist guys who blast a lot are always looking for some work to throw in with bigger jobs. I had my western snowplow blasted pretty reasonable. I decided just to paint the plow with normal spray and some hardner. I restored my IH pedal tractor ( for my son) and had it powder coated- that stuff is nice.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


Not a diesel mechanic in real life but I play one on the Internet
Weld engineer is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Weld engineer For this addition to TDG:
indiana lineman (01-26-2013)
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2013, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Threadstarter
 
indiana lineman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 82
Points: 38,322
Thanks: 59
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
That's interesting. I've never heard of throwing in some rusty wheels when someone does sand blasting. Couldn't hurt to look into that. I've heard that powder coating can be kind of pricey.
Seems like a waste, but I've seen tire and wheel packages that made it seem like it would almost be better to swap out the old ones for new. Then again, after a blow out, I had new tires put on so wheels only would make more sense if I went that route.
indiana lineman is offline  
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2013, 03:44 PM
Aimless Wanderer
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 929
Points: 50,596
Thanks: 29
Thanked 359 Times in 285 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by indiana lineman View Post
That's interesting. I've never heard of throwing in some rusty wheels when someone does sand blasting. Couldn't hurt to look into that. I've heard that powder coating can be kind of pricey.
Seems like a waste, but I've seen tire and wheel packages that made it seem like it would almost be better to swap out the old ones for new. Then again, after a blow out, I had new tires put on so wheels only would make more sense if I went that route.
Any blaster is looking for filler work. I just had a set of older split rims done last week along with 79 other pieces for antique trucks. I'll probably just paint the rims however with a good quality urethane product.

There are many different grades of powdercoating available. Some is very durable, some no better than spray can applied paint from a hardware store. The basis of whichever paint or powder you use is a clean base substrate. Sandblasting will provide this but will abrade and distort the surface. Powdercoat will fill this and yeild a smooth surface as will paint if enough thickness is applied. However, as coating thickness increases, durability decreases no matter the product. It is difficult to sand a rim face smooth but it can be done. Work spent with proper preparation is well rewarded.
Backslap is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Backslap For this addition to TDG:
indiana lineman (01-26-2013), Weld engineer (01-25-2013)
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Threadstarter
 
indiana lineman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 82
Points: 38,322
Thanks: 59
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Backslap View Post
Any blaster is looking for filler work. I just had a set of older split rims done last week along with 79 other pieces for antique trucks. I'll probably just paint the rims however with a good quality urethane product.

There are many different grades of powdercoating available. Some is very durable, some no better than spray can applied paint from a hardware store. The basis of whichever paint or powder you use is a clean base substrate. Sandblasting will provide this but will abrade and distort the surface. Powdercoat will fill this and yeild a smooth surface as will paint if enough thickness is applied. However, as coating thickness increases, durability decreases no matter the product. It is difficult to sand a rim face smooth but it can be done. Work spent with proper preparation is well rewarded.
Glad you mentioned that, about the diference in powder coating. I was not aware of that.
indiana lineman is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 10:59 PM
Senior Member
 
astro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Nineveh, Indiana
Posts: 589
Points: 55,188
Thanks: 69
Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts
Since we live in Indiana were they love to use salt, the powered coat won`t hold up to well. I have had alot of powered coated parts and after acouple of years the coat starts bubbling and just falls off with rust under it. Look in the Indiana auto/rv magazine I bet you can find a set of nice new wheels that are polished for cheap. If not sand them real well and prime them and used the wheel paint that the sell at the auto parts store or use bedliner on them also. they make that in a spray can also for cheap also. The rubberized undercoat could be used and some of that can be painted any color over the top of it also. also the caliper paint in the spray can would work I used a caliper paint kit on my wife`s calipers on her tacoma, it comes with a cleaner and the paint levels its self. after 2 years they still look like I just painted them. Good luck!!

FOR SALE 2002 F250 4X4 Crew Cab Short Bed Lariat Dark shadow Gray W/ Custom Flame Paint Job in Pearl Silver and Purple Tips Pinstriped in Burple. Icon 12.5" Lift with OneUpOffroad 5" Traction Bar Block system, OUO Drive Line Drop Bracket,Clocked Transfer Case, SS Brake Lines, Dual shocks UpFront,Mickey thompson 38X15.50R18 tires, Wels Racing Dune 8 18X10 wheels,Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flares, Reflexion steel hood, ARE Z Series Shell, chrome Tow Hook,Putco Flame Grille, Trenz billet rear Veiw Mirror & Flame Pedals, New Image Flame Gauges, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake, MBRP, Cools Duals T-304SS w/Custom Flame T-304 SS Tips,Autometer Z Series Pyro,Boost,Tranny Gauges,Loud Kenwoo/Kicker 1600 + RMS Stereo System, Husky Floor Liners, More!
astro is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to astro For this addition to TDG:
indiana lineman (02-09-2013)
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
Threadstarter
 
indiana lineman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 82
Points: 38,322
Thanks: 59
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
reply

Well, I figure that the salt has probably not been a factor on these rims yet. I work with the guy who used to own it, and it was probably not used over once a season, if that.
I hear ya Astro on the auto and rv (b) book. I look in there from time to time myself without much luck.
Leaning toward just blasting off the old paint, repainting and then some hardener like weld engineer suggested. Thinking about switching to black also instead of white rims.
indiana lineman is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 02:53 PM
Member
 
Golddigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 282
Points: 41,323
Thanks: 18
Thanked 27 Times in 26 Posts
Garage
There are trailers that are parted out. You could look for aluminum rims off a wreck. Or buy some less expensive aluminum ones and never have to do it again. Another option is the sand, primer and hub caps.

2002 F-350 CC, Shortbed, 4X4, rebuilt 7.3, EBV brake, 4" dual exhaust, B&D compressor wheel, head studs, Gear head performance 6 pos, Banks Big Head, built 4R100 w/triple disc torque conv, Shift kit, 204K, B&W Hitch and 5th wheel companion, Superlift Air Bags, 35 x 12.50 x 17 BFG KM2:

The veiws expressed are purely opinion. I in no way take responsibility for any actions or damage as a result of trying this at home.

Local 3 OPERATORS UNION

2005 Chevy 7500 C-7/Allison, Service box off of my '93 Int

Golddigger is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Golddigger For this addition to TDG:
indiana lineman (02-09-2013)
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 03:57 PM
Senior Member
 
astro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Nineveh, Indiana
Posts: 589
Points: 55,188
Thanks: 69
Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts
I just looked in both A&B books nothing this week. There is a place up north there who has an ad for sandblasting and powered coating ect. The advertise wheel powered coating starting at $ 40 a wheel. My brother just bought a new bike trailer and the place he bought it from it was only
$100 to upgrade to the polished wheels and that was for 4 of them. So you might call a trail place up north and price some. If it was me I would just wire brush them use a rust converter and primer them and shoot some good black paint on there and call it a day.

FOR SALE 2002 F250 4X4 Crew Cab Short Bed Lariat Dark shadow Gray W/ Custom Flame Paint Job in Pearl Silver and Purple Tips Pinstriped in Burple. Icon 12.5" Lift with OneUpOffroad 5" Traction Bar Block system, OUO Drive Line Drop Bracket,Clocked Transfer Case, SS Brake Lines, Dual shocks UpFront,Mickey thompson 38X15.50R18 tires, Wels Racing Dune 8 18X10 wheels,Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flares, Reflexion steel hood, ARE Z Series Shell, chrome Tow Hook,Putco Flame Grille, Trenz billet rear Veiw Mirror & Flame Pedals, New Image Flame Gauges, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake, MBRP, Cools Duals T-304SS w/Custom Flame T-304 SS Tips,Autometer Z Series Pyro,Boost,Tranny Gauges,Loud Kenwoo/Kicker 1600 + RMS Stereo System, Husky Floor Liners, More!
astro is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to astro For this addition to TDG:
indiana lineman (02-09-2013)
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013, 04:28 PM
Aimless Wanderer
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 929
Points: 50,596
Thanks: 29
Thanked 359 Times in 285 Posts
Keep in mind that steel wheels produced on the OEM level are not "spray painted" in the conventional sense using a quality undercoat, (primer) followed by a topcoat of which you actually see. They are painted via the electrostatic process which is the same as filing cabinets and metal office furniture are finished. This process involves electrically charging the parts to be painted positive, and negatively charging the spray negative or vice versa, (depending on application). The benefit to doing things this way is very little application film thickness and everything is covered due to the magnetic "draw" of the electrostatic field. Basically the paint is like a magnet to the steel part. The result is a smooth finish in only one step as the finish product is a direct to metal formulation, hence, no prime coat. That being said, try setting a file cabinet in the weather for a year and see how it holds up........

In the aftermarket to repaint steel rims it's prudent to sandblast them very clean, clean them again with a phosphoric acid based "wash primer", followed by either a two part epoxy primer/sealer, or the newer generation two part urethane based products. I'm pretty old school when it comes to coating products with time and history on my side to use epoxy products. After the proper dry time is allowed, the wheels are then topcoated with a high quality automotive or industrial type finish.

What you have on the finished end is a much more durable product than when the wheels were actually manufactured. When mounting tires ensure the tire laborer uses either plastic tire spoons, or a non contact type tire machine to not scar or gouge your finish.

From my experience with powder coating steel wheels: I don't personally like it. There is far too much temperature variation in the wheel and it fractures and peels. If you think about a wheel, the center were it bolts to a brake assembly is quite hot in comparison to the bead around the tire seating area. Couple this with cold wheel spash and the coating just doesn't seem to hold up well; again these are only my opinions. I feel paint holds up much better in the application. Again, just my opinions. If someone could figure out a way to not fracture the coating when they tighten the lug nuts, I'd be all ears.

You really do get what you pay for in paint products. There are good examples out there and not so good. Do a little research prior to purchase to avoid dissapointment. I use "Diamond-Vogle" industrial paint and undercoat for frames, wheels, and everything that is not on an automobile body. I also do not intermix one vendor's chemicals with another. Seen far too many failures from this over the years.

Last edited by Backslap; 02-09-2013 at 04:36 PM.
Backslap is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Backslap For this addition to TDG:
indiana lineman (02-09-2013)
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Who wants new rims? Now, who wants new rims for FREE?! carid CARiD.com 1 08-29-2012 02:37 PM
Rusty oil pan syndrome...help! TowRig 1994-2003 7.3L Power Stroke 3 08-02-2009 10:01 PM
Rusty and broken line off of exh manifold bigbear3 1994-2003 7.3L Power Stroke 6 02-05-2009 01:34 AM
Rusty Dodges Why JWC-PERFORMANCE 5.9L Cummins 12 Valve (1994-1998.5) 5 05-27-2007 03:31 PM
Rims moose99psd Whats Been Sold 0 05-10-2007 06:25 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome