Water Leaks.... - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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Water Leaks....

Well we hooked up the new camper today to wash it off and I wanted to hook it up to water to rinse all the antifreeze out of the lines... WELL I found 2 water leaks inside the camper. The first MAJOR one is this fitting on the back of the toilet. I removed it and am thinking about just epoxying it up and hoping it holds.. Has anyone every had one of these break and if so do you know of somewhere to get one??

Second leak is just a small mist and it is coming from one of these connections in this mess of pipes.
I loosened up the two fittings and tried to remove the whole piece that was leaking but I was unable to get the tubing off, anyone got any ideas on how to remove the actual tubing???

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 03:02 AM
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to remove a heat gun or hair dryer will make it a little easier I also used dial soap to install my winterizing kit with the hair dryer to get it to slide back together easier.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neeltburn View Post
to remove a heat gun or hair dryer will make it a little easier I also used dial soap to install my winterizing kit with the hair dryer to get it to slide back together easier.

Is part of that a "winterizing kit" I think it all needs to stay I just need to get some of it replaced...

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 04:17 AM
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I do know that on ours it has couplings/fittings 3 or 4 and I would take loose and it should pop off if its like any of our campers have been. It should come off where you can replace it as an assembly. there should be two valves that bypass the hot water heater, there could be some water or anti freeze left in there as well, water prolly since you know its leaking. Can you tell if its the valve or the hard line leaking. I would find all the fittings for the hot water heater bypass and try taking them loose and seeing if you can get an assembly to replace it with. I would drain the hot water heater before starting as well, also find out what hot water heater you have and see if you can get the parts that way.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 04:19 AM
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the winterizing kit I was referring to hooks into the pump line and has a valve that you put a line in RV antifreeze to pump through the lines. Im sorry you are working on the bypass for the Hot water heater. sorry for the confusion. hope ya get it figured out.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 04:35 AM
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That has happened to me also, that same stupid fitting broke. Your local RV dealer/repair shop will have a fitting you can screw on to your fresh water connection w/ a valve stem on it. Blow about 90 psi through the lines before you winterize it and that should keep that crapper fitting water free.

Is that a Fleetwood trailer?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 04:46 AM
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Someone has been there before from the mix of PEX plastic and QUEST fittings. The PEX tool is about $100 - close to the labor bill to get in and fix it. A cut off wheel on a 4-4 1/2 angle grinder will pay for itself in saving the valves, the tubing is cheap.

IT looks like they intended a water heater bypass to limit the amount of anti-freeze needed.

I prefer shop air - adapt to garden hose thread and pressurise at the city water, partialy blow the lines, then, open the drain on the freshwater and start the pump while using the air nozzle on the fresh fill. Go back to the city water and do each tap including the toilet til the vent is air only. Add anti-freeze to the traps on the sink, lavatory, shower and a quart to the blackwater tank. Pull the water heater drain.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2009, 05:17 AM
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Forgot the way to find those rainbow leaks that spread fast - wave a tissue around, might take 3-4 before the leak blows a hole in the paper.

The leak is proably in one of the metal clamp PEX fittings if they are plastic

Mark the stubs for hot and cold if you pull it all out - that is what the red/blue is for.

keydl

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