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what should my 1/4 mile time be with trap of 96.57

3K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  EJ Krueger 
#1 ·
2004 f250 2wd crew cab 6.0

time slip
R/T .340 <--- is that a red light? i have heard .400 is prefect??
60' 2.349 <--- best time with stock 16" wheels and sct only was 2.081
330 6.170
1/8 9.381
MPH 76.59
1000 12.145
ET 14.479
mph 96.57

When i had the stock 265/75/16 with extreme street and afe intake best time was 14.2x. Now im lowered 1.5" in the front 4" in the back, same tune, afe stage1, tire size is now 305/45/22, and 4 inch exhaust with no tail pipe section. Traction is my main problem. I thought the wider tires would have helped but i dont think the did, i still have to feather it.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Ok u got erics tune right??
LOOKS LIKE UR STAGING TOO MUCH TRY LAUNCHING AT 7 OR 8PSI OF BOOST THAT LIL LAGY HELPS U MOVE THE TIRES AND DROP THE HAMMER

IM STOCK SUSPENSION WISE DROPPING UR TRUCK MAKES IT SLOWER IT CANT ABSORB THE LIFT FROM THE FRONT AT TAKE OFF..2WD ARE HARD TOO TO LAUNCH THAN 4WD EXPERIMENT WITH DIFFRENT BOOSTS I SAY 8PSI AND YOULL BE GOOD
 
#3 ·
Ok u got erics tune right??
Yes, I emailed him about it shifting to early 1-2 around 3700, 2-3 around 3700, 3-4 about 3300 and 4-5 around 3100. i can tell the truck wants to go and its just in the wrong gear. And its shifting into 5th right before i am crossing the 1/4th mark. Rev limit in the sct is set to 4150.

This is what he said in his email,

"SCT has some of the trans tables wrong. I sent them the correct addresses and they will be updating the database soon. That’s what you are feeling with the shifts. The new database update will give me some needed fueling tables and the correct shifting tables. It’ll be one mean tune when I’m done."

So now im just waiting to see if the new tables will help me
 
#5 ·
UR MAIN PROBLEM IS HOOKING UP.....I DONT KNOW IF UR LIKE ME ID GET SOME 16" WIDE RIMS JUST TWO FOR THE REAR AND BUY SOME SLICKS WARM THEM PUPPIES UP AND HAMMER THAT SUCKER U CAN GET SOME SLICKS WITH RIMS FOR UNDER 500 BUCKS ITS WORTH IT... IM DOING IT:happymugs
 
#7 ·
the tq on our trucks will make them spin...if they hook hard better
 
#8 ·
2004 f250 2wd crew cab 6.0

time slip
R/T .340 <--- is that a red light? i have heard .400 is prefect??


No sir this isn't perfect. Whom ever told you a .400 is perfect was on crack, that's actually a pretty slow R/T. I personally have had a .092 in my mustang. The good thing is that your R/T is not relative to your ET.
 
#11 ·
2004 f250 2wd crew cab 6.0

time slip
R/T .340 <--- is that a red light? i have heard .400 is prefect??


No sir this isn't perfect. Whom ever told you a .400 is perfect was on crack, that's actually a pretty slow R/T. I personally have had a .092 in my mustang. The good thing is that your R/T is not relative to your ET.


just found this on the NHRA web site, it might be different for pros but this is what i has always heard was perfect .400



"On the traditional Pro Christmas Tree, a .399 light or quicker is considered an early start, activating the red light, which results in disqualification. Under the new system, a 399 will be displayed as -.001, a .398 as -.002, and so on. Anything from a perfect reaction time of .000 and above will be a legal start The new timing system in no way affects any driver, vehicle setup, or other significant aspect of competition on the dragstrip."
 
#12 ·
:whs
 
#14 ·
Do yourself a huge favor, leave your 22s at home in the garage and put your 16s back on the truck next time you go to the track. The lack of sidewall on the 22s is killing traction, and the weight of the 22" wheel has probably 50% more rotational mass that you have to accelerate. 16s with some sidewall will actually get a longer contact patch, which is beter than a wide contact patch for drag racing. Try to find a lower load rating radial (Load C) in the stock size, or slightly larger, run 25-30psi, and hold on. Some cheaper store brand no name tires actually work really well as make shift drag tires. The softer sidewall will lengthen the footprint, and a sturdy tread design will last a while. Just don't drive around on the street on them, or the will be junk from too many heat cycles the next time you want to race the truck.
 
#19 ·
If the tree flashes all three yellows at the same time and then the green, it's a pro (.400) tree, but if the yellows activate on one at a time and work down to the green it is a (.500) tree. The .400 and .500 designate how long it takes the green to come on after the starter activates the tree and has nothing to do with your actual reaction time. They determine how much time you have to anticipate the green.

The reaction time that you see on your time slip is indicates your vehicles reaction to the green and has nothing to do with the tree delay. A perfect reaction time would be shown as a .000, indicating that your tires moved out of the stage beam at the exact same time that the geen illuminated. So .340 is how long it took your tire to move out of the stage beams and start the run timers after the green illuminated. Remember that while someone might have the quickest reflexes in the world, reaction time is a combination of the driver and vehicles time to react and our 3/4-1 ton trucks weighing 7-9000 lbs take a bit to get moving.

:happymugs,
Lonny
 
#22 ·
At a weight of 8000, your trap speed calculates to a 13.9. If your time adds the reaction time of 0.34, then the best you should expect is a 14.24. So 14.48 means you have about a quarter second you could recover. Probably losing that in feathering.
 
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