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ladder/traction bars

9K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  sstockton 
#1 ·
It has been a while since my last post. I have been pretty busy. I noticed the other day that I have some pretty bad axle wrap and I need to correct this issue. I was looking into traction bars, but they seem to restrict the articulation, but it seems that no one makes a true ladder bar for the newer
2nd gen trucks, due to the factory sway bar. Is the sway bar really needed if you run ladder bars? If so, Maybe I could run traction bars with a hinged front joint. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for such a long post.
 
#5 ·
The closer you can get the traction bar to match the arc of the springs as they compress and extend, the less binding you will have with them. Generally speaking, matching the angle of the drive shaft will get you close to this. The drive shaft is designed and run at the angles it is, to use the slip joint as little as possible under normal and basic articulation. This limits the wear on it. So matching that angle will put you near the angle you want for a traction bar.

For my regular cab long box truck, it seems as though a traction bar that is 60" eye to eye mounted to a bracket on the lower shock mounts at the bottom of the axle and to the frame on the other end is about right. Still building them, but I will let you know how they work when I finally get them all buttoned up.
Sean
 
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#6 ·
Sean,
Would you post some pics when you get them done?
 
#8 ·
There are a few for traction bars, but as for ladder bars they do not make them for 2nd gens. You can check out lazar smith, but that style would be easy to build and a lot cheaper.
 
#11 ·
That depends on how they are set up. If the arc of the Arm travels in a similar path to the springs pack, then the ride will hardly change at all. If they don't travel similar to the springs, then it will be very stiff as they will be causing the axle to bind and articulation will be restricted.
Sean
 
#12 ·
Well, my hobby is rockcrawlers. I have built 5 so far. Axle wrap is a big deal with rear leaf springs over the axle. You have to run anti wrap ladder type bar to eliminate it. You can build your own or check out the 4wheel drive sites for an anti-wrap bar. I'm sure you can adapt one built for a jeep to work on a truck.
 
#13 ·
ive worked on a rock crawler or two as well. we dont play with leaf springs though.

for these big trucks an actual set of traction bars will work best. that is unless you want to step up to a ladder bar with a shackle.

Garrett
 
#14 · (Edited)
I figured I would start putting up some photos of mine. I haven't installed them yet, and actually I haven't really finished them either. I accidentally made 2 passenger side brackets, as it was getting late when I was working on them. Anyways, with all that said, I made them 60" long, which I think may be a little on the long side, but we will see how they do. Also, they use all factory bolt holes so no drilling or welding is required.

















Sean
 
#18 ·
They mount to the frame using existing holes inside the support for the front bed mount. And the bottom bracket mounts to the lower shock mount on the axle as there are 3 holes in the bottom of that as well. It will be a lot more obvious once its on the truck.
Sean
 
#20 ·
Yeah, it isn't super obvious, because in the pictures, the tabs aren't welded on yet. Since the shocks are offset to the inside of the frame, the traction bar needs to be to the side of the shock mount. So the pieces of tube are welded to 1/4" plate that has holes that line up with the holes on the shock mount. Once they are all in and cleaned up, I will probably pull them and have them powder coated, but hopefully they will look pretty clean.
Sean
 
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