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What about your A/C did you get the tach kit? So how does the stock 12v compare to the 6.0? Have you done all the free HP mods to the 12v yet?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
idk if the a/c works yet i just recently ordered the tach kit and it will come in soon ill let yall know on that. Yes i have tunned the AFC removed the fuel plate and added an adjuster for the wasegate and it feels about the same power level as the 6.0 on street tune(SCT). Mileage stayed about the same 17/22.
 

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That is good to know. I figured anything would be better than what I have now. Hope you get that ac working it's starting to get a little warm around here. It was near 90 yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
The dvs are from big bad diesel performance. The sales guy said they make them and they were a but load cheaper than anyone else and they work great and not all that smokey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Ok i installed the Destroked tach kit on my truck this morning and took it out for a spin. a/c works great as well. It works but it seems the tach is a bit off. At 70 mph my tach reads 2200 rpms. And before the swap it was at about 1800? Is this normal? thanks for any help yall.
 

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:happydance:happydance:happydance

Glad to hear that AC is working.

What does the tach show at idle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Yeah me too!!! it reads 1100 at idle. I think its high but i did bump it up before i had the tach kit but it wasnt even a full turn on the idle screw.
 

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I don't really know but that does sound a bit high for idle. how does it sound?

BTW, what did you use for your airconditioning compressor mount?
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
it sounds good compared to others ive heard around town it seems about right. I used the stock 12v mount. i cut it off just below the lower water outlet. Then i slide the mount back by drilling the three holes 1 5/16" forward(refer to page one for pic). The a/c compressor off the 6.0 bolt directly in place with the first two mounts of the 12v mount. Then i welded a piece of solid stock to the back drilled/tapped it so i have three bolts in the compressor mounts. thats its, ive ran it like this for a little over 6k with no issues. i had to bend a line a little but all in all way easier/cheaper than anything else ive seen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Just thought i would give a little update on the Swap. I have put about about 14k on the truck since the swap. Averaging 19-20 on highway and around 16 in town. No issues what so ever except i had an injector nut come loose and spray fuel everywhere about 2 month ago. Wife drives the truck everyday and she loves it. I have redone the motor location i slid it back far enough to run the mechanical cooling fan and had a 1 piece driveshaft made for the rear. Way better for the cooling system/ air conditioning system. I just got a set of SDX 5x14 injectors and found a s472 turbo for a bottom charger. Also just got the SBC DD setup ready to go in around November. Here come Twins
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
i have been getting some pm's about the cruise control looks like i had it posted wrong but here is it.

Ok here is how i did mine. i got a cruise control unit from a 2002 ford explorer with the 10 pin connector attached to it. Got it off ebay for 30 bucks. About the only difference in units it the cable comming off the CC unit. This may or may not be the same way to hook it up in a 2000 model but it probably is. you need to find the pinout diagram for your year to confirm i got mine from ford dealership.

Cruise control connector. C171


PCM pinout C1381a


Pull the connector out of the PCM harness and solider connections to the 8 wires comming off the CC connector.

The first number is going to be the CC pin number and the second is the PCM pin number. So that means 1-9, 3-35, 4-18, 5-31, 6-24, 7-H.I.R., 9-28, 10-Grnd. There you go will work like a champ and all you buttons will work as well. Brakelight switch will turn it off simple as cake.
 
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