[TheBac]

I view it as a legitimate question.

First: I Use but do not abuse my truck.

Second: I know how to drive a diesel.

Frankly, I could Over Heat my truck; my Right foot is well disciplined.

This is Not Smart *** !

FWIW.

Um, ok. Thats not exactly what I was hoping for. I never insinuated that anyone here is abusing their trucks, as we've found that some people can O/H them empty.

Do you stay at <=55 mph when towing that kind of load?
Do you take rest stops to let the engine cool down?

Seriously, how do you do it with no other mods, towing that kind of load?

 

[idahofox]

Um, ok. Thats not exactly what I was hoping for. I never insinuated that anyone here is abusing their trucks, as we've found that some people can O/H them empty.

Do you stay at <=55 mph when towing that kind of load?
Do you take rest stops to let the engine cool down?

Seriously, how do you do it with no other mods, towing that kind of load?

OK.

First: Not having access to a transgressing unit, I do not know why some OH empty.

Second: With well over 500,000 DMax's on the road and judging from postings on various Forum’s, there might be 5,000 LLY’s that OH; less the units that are modified ( lifts, 285+ tires, crank the bar’s ), operated outside the design limits ( weight, chip/programs ), maybe 1,500, there may be .7% legitimate OH’ers, equipment failure. Were you making decisions for GM, would you focus large engineering assets to this problem ?

Nuff.

----------

I snowbird south each October, NV, CA, AZ and return home in March, ~ 4 - 5K miles.

I drive the speed limit ±, up to 65 mph, the limit is self imposed for safety ( electric trailer brakes ), I do let it " Roll Up " on the down side.

It is not a Grannie Truck, it will do triple digits.

The truck has never required a cool down, I do stop for bladder relief. My normal day is 600 miles or destination.

OTR drivers know that to pass or attack a hill with a diesel, you have to " Build a Fire ".

Back off the throtle as you approch the crest and let it " Roll Up " on the back side. If you have WOT at the crest, you are not optimizing your diesel.

If/when ECT or EGT are to high, drop a gear and slow down.

Dropping the gear transfers more torque to the drivers for the same BTU’s, slowing down keeps your RPM’s at optimum engine torque, ~ 2000.

If you feel you Must maintain a certain MPH you should be driveing a gas power unit.

That’s my story and I’m stick’en to it.

FWIW.

 

[TheBac]

Good deal. Thanks Fox.

 

[JJs CAT]

Just got back in town and read this thread, WOW! First/foremost an apology to Mark for the tone this thread has taken at the unfortunate expense of his integrity. Certainly we can do better than this or we risk suffering the same fate as other sites.

Mark, it sounds like you raised the rig higher than normal, yet your still pin high and sloping in the rear? Are you running taller tires than OEM?

As for the dry weight debate, unfortunately many RV manufacturers use the lower dry weights before installing options to appeal to the towing capacities of smaller V-6 SUV's and other light duty vehicles, it's all about sales, not safety! IMHO never, ever take a manufacturers website as gospel, insist on getting the unit weighed in order to get a real number.

Let's try to stick to the facts, stay constructive and not each other alive around here. JJ

 

[chloeourdog]

Mark, it sounds like you raised the rig higher than normal, yet your still pin high and sloping in the rear? Are you running taller tires than OEM?

As for the dry weight debate, unfortunately many RV manufacturers use the lower dry weights before installing options to appeal to the towing capacities of smaller V-6 SUV's and other light duty vehicles, it's all about sales, not safety! IMHO never, ever take a manufacturers website as gospel, insist on getting the unit weighed in order to get a real number.

Let's try to stick to the facts, stay constructive and not each other alive around here. JJ

Hi JJ,

Truck has OEM tires for a 3500 4x4 (I think they are 265's)

I have my hitch raised higher than normal in my bed because in order to store my Wildcat I have to back over an incline and a curb - I touched the bedrail at 5-7" so I raised the hitch to its highest point to give me a full 9" minimum bedrail clearance. I had to raise the camper (it was a lot cheaper to have 4" blocks installed rather than switch rims and tires to 16" on the camper.)

The back 2' by 8' by 6' area of my camper is a backpack (with what is called a 4'x4' garage door - isolated from the rest of the camper, like a mini-toy hauler) and I store a lot of heavy items back there - generator, apartment-size mini washing machine for long trips, etc.) My fresh water tank sits behind my rear axle too. All of this reduces pin-weight and puts a lot more weight on the rear trailer axle. I think it is a design flaw since I got a lot of bucking before getting Forest River provide me with the Demco Glide-Ride pin-box (which I had ordered with the camper, but was not installed at delivery.)

That is part of the reason for still pulling nose high. Before the blocks and the hitch in the lowest setting I still sat 2" nose high. If I don't pack the backpack I can get it to sit level with my setup. If I could lower my truck I would be fine.

BTW, the front page of the Brochure for Wildcats states "Designed to be pulled by a 1/2 ton truck .... maybe their 24' model .... my 29BHBP is the largest frame and axle setup (Wildcat) builds (same as the 31XXXX and 32XXXX models including the one that has 3 slides I noticed that the brochures never changed the dry weight listings from 2003 on any of their models even though they are built much differently now.

 

[firedoger]

Mark

The important thing to keep in mind is that the EOC worked for you!!!!! Doesn't matter what you where pulling. you saw a definate impovement from the past. I'm happy for you. My truck will OH with a 6k load behind it. I'm looking forward to trying the EOC. KB is top notch when it comes to this stuff. THX for your posting your results!!

BSanders

 

[Ranch55]

Mark

The important thing to keep in mind is that the EOC worked for you!!!!! Doesn't matter what you where pulling. you saw a definate impovement from the past. I'm happy for you. My truck will OH with a 6k load behind it. I'm looking forward to trying the EOC. KB is top notch when it comes to this stuff. THX for your posting your results!!

BSanders

Take a look at my install photos in the LLY Overheat Fix thread.
This is just what I decided on for my LLY.

 

[chloeourdog]

Response to questions asked earlier ....

I am happy it was a victory for you Mark. Very thorough, integral report.:Thumbup:

I have a few questions:

1. How many total fans were installed for this trip?
The fan is the OEM belt-driven one. Slot was cut in bumper to accomodate install (Chevy modification only) and allow for good air flow over the TD-EOC.

2. Was the noise level changed for this trip, vs others?
The roaring Fan noise is gone. I have observed what my truck sounds like when 1 quart low on oil .... see below.)

3. Considering your prior experiences with rising ECT, and comparing with others that have reported similar heatup experiences, do you think the TD-EOC will solve OH issues for anyone towing legal loads on public roads? Why?
I will only speak for my case - the TD-EOC appears to have kept my ECT temps at or below 220 degrees (all the resolution I can get out of the OEM ECT gauge reading 210 or below ....) This is acceptable to me because before the TD-EOC, I was getting OEM ECT temps to 235 (which is about 240 degrees or so in actuallity.) Ambient Outside Temps did have some affect on the temps but the biggest was climbing while towing - this was the combination that caused the most problems. Until I climb a large grade towing on a day above 95 degrees, I cannot make such a statement referring to 'anyone' - I will say that so far I feel confident I can tow my camper on anything I have done so far (I68, I77, I81, I87, WVA mountain roads, etc.) without heatup. Before the TD-EOC, I could get my OEM ECT gauge to 235 when the AOT was 68 degrees just by towing a grade.

4. Is there any way that the TD-EOC did not meet expectation, or could be improved?
I just want to make sure I am not going to be overcooling things - the Mocal should take care of that. The air dam was a knucklebuster for me (I installed it after installing the TD-EOC) - otherwise I am extremely happy with build quality, installation and operation.

5. Will you change your oil change intervals as a result of what you are seeing?
I will stick to my interval of 5K miles since my truck is mostly used for towing.

The following information is not directly related to the question but I will mention it for reference and suggestions:
I have had some talks with others about what the actual oil level should be on the TD-EOC. I added 13 quarts this time. I tried 12 quarts because the dipstick read full, but I noticed more 'noise' so I added the extra quart. I also carefully measured what I drained out of the TD-EOC and know it takes a bit over 2 quarts alone, so with the 4 hoses, the Mocal, etc. 13 quarts should be fine. Maybe I should use 12.5 quarts? I am still open to suggestions. All I know is 12 quarts was not enough .... I could hear slightly more top/bottom engine noise with 12 quarts - sounds exactly when I put 9 quarts in stock before TD-EOC install - that was when I went by the dipstick.

6. Do you have an opinion on oil grade for this modification? Would you feel comfortable using conventional now?
I like running synthetic - I do my own oil changes. I like 5W40 Mobil 1 but they stopped selling it around the East coast. I would feel fine running 15W40 Rotella T, but since I don't put the miles on the truck except when towing the Synthetic is my personal choice. I run Mobil 1 in my daily drivers also.

7. On your trip, did you try to get ECT to rise, as you have seen before, a stress test per se?
On this particular camping trip I intentially drove hard up grades - specifically one very steep (7-8%) grade (about a mile long) when the outside temperature was over 90 degrees - I never did observe an ECT rise (remember though I was looking at the OEM gauge, so all I can say is that I did not exceed 220 degrees with this method. I did notice much better recovery after climbing a grade (could see OEM gauge move from 1 notch below center to 2 or 3 notch below center which can be converted using a chart I saw posted recently.)

:thanks:

My answers in Bold

 

[Jimbo]

I installed a second coolant guage on my chev with the LLy engine by putting the sensor in the upper radiator hose and then installing a digital guage. I must say there is a big difference from the oem guage to the digital guage.

 

[Hunnington]

It's all relative

I do not care what or how much you were towing, you reduced the heat in your engine. Period. Good Post.

 

[killerbee]

This will be for sale for a limited time

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35939

 

[idahofox]

Yeep'er

I ordered mine, :usflag , have you ?

 

[way_out_there]

I ordered mine, :usflag , have you ?

I thought you didn't overheat? :shrug: Just an upgrade for longevity purposes perhaps?

OK.

First: Not having access to a transgressing unit, I do not know why some OH empty.

Second: With well over 500,000 DMax's on the road and judging from postings on various Forum’s, there might be 5,000 LLY’s that OH; less the units that are modified ( lifts, 285+ tires, crank the bar’s ), operated outside the design limits ( weight, chip/programs ), maybe 1,500, there may be .7% legitimate OH’ers, equipment failure. Were you making decisions for GM, would you focus large engineering assets to this problem ?

Nuff.

While the numbers you posted may be somewhat accurate, it doesn't tell the entire story. The larger part of the LLY powered trucks are not being used anywhere near their rated capacity. GM gets lucky!

Also, I see in your sig that your truck is a 2003, that would make it LB7 powered. I seems the bulk of the overheaters were produced in 2004.5-2005 model years.

 

[idahofox]

I thought you didn't overheat? :shrug: Just an upgrade for longevity purposes perhaps?





While the numbers you posted may be somewhat accurate, it doesn't tell the entire story. The larger part of the LLY powered trucks are not being used anywhere near their rated capacity. GM gets lucky!

Also, I see in your sig that your truck is a 2003, that would make it LB7 powered. I seems the bulk of the overheaters were produced in 2004.5-2005 model years.

I am trying to understand your post, what is your point or contribution? ?ointlaugh

 

[killerbee]

The TD-EOC is primarily, an engine oil cooler. While it does serve as overheat protection to those that have that problem, it is first and foremost, comprehensive temperature control for motor oil. In the duramax, that is important, as the lubrication system incorporates piston cooling, served entirely by oil. These squirters require a fair amount of oil pressure to work well, they are served by a pressure valve of sorts. If the pressure drops, as it does when the oil heats up over design temperature of 210 degrees, then less (or no) oil circulates under the hot piston. So yes, this is a longevity option for any duramax, from 01 to 06, that sees extended periods of hot cylinder temperatures.

I believe it is best suited for the professional driver, who wants to get another 100,000 miles between overhauls. Or anyone who knows the importance of proper oil temperature to lubrication.

As clarification, the oil has been seen at over 360 degrees with overworked vehicles. I have logged 320 degrees. The implications of sustaining operation at those oil temps is very clear in this industry.

 

[way_out_there]

I am trying to understand your post, what is your point or contribution? ?ointlaugh

It appeared to me that in your first posts in this thread that you were questioning the overheat complaints, and blamed it on improper usage of the vehicle. I found it ironic, since you don't have an LLY powered truck.

I witnessed this overheat problem 2 years ago, with an 8K trailer down in Tennessee. It was my buddy's truck, and he has been towing a fiver for quite some time, so this was a chip shot for him. At that time, we had no idea why the truck got hot; he has since gone to a Ford Dually. But after getting on these diesel websites, I see it is happening to others. I take interest in it, because I bought an LLY powered truck, and never want to see it overheat. The risk of damage is too great, and extremely expensive. I am taking the steps to keep it from occuring.

 

[idahofox]

It appeared to me that in your first posts in this thread that you were questioning the overheat complaints, and blamed it on improper usage of the vehicle. I found it ironic, since you don't have an LLY powered truck.

I witnessed this overheat problem 2 years ago, with an 8K trailer down in Tennessee. It was my buddy's truck, and he has been towing a fiver for quite some time, so this was a chip shot for him. At that time, we had no idea why the truck got hot; he has since gone to a Ford Dually. But after getting on these diesel websites, I see it is happening to others. I take interest in it, because I bought an LLY powered truck, and never want to see it overheat. The risk of damage is too great, and extremely expensive. I am taking the steps to keep it from occuring.

I believe that " You " fine Most things " Ironic "; with all respect.

There is a preammble to understanding; knowledge of the subject area.

Do you require a precision of ±10%: risk @ 1% probability is acceptable 3% is not acceptable.

When you define acceptable parameters, make them applicable to " All ", fair ?

We all need to be on the " Same Page " . opcorn: