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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1978 toyota landcruiser. I'm looking to use it as a off-road toy and the only street time it will see is between my house and the woods. I want to do a lift so I can put some 35-12.5's on it. My question is, has anyone ever done a spring over axle on one of these? I have a welding machine and everything else I'd need to do it. I'm just not sure if I'd need to drop the transfer case or get longer drive shafts. The only thing I don't like about it is, there's no power steering, so 35's will be fun to turn.
 

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You'll have to lengthen the drive shafts. You don't want to lower the t-case, then you'd lose clearance. You can get spring perches and hangers from www.marlincrawler.com amoung other places. Marlins crew are really good to work with and they are Toyota experts.
Most people also do a shackle reversal on the front end too. That way the shackles aren't getting slammed into things.
As far as the power steering goes, most guys find a saginaw power steering box and mount it up front and do away with the stock steering. There are tons of writeups on all of these mod.
Marlin Crawler has a forum and pirate4x4 has great info too. But beware, pirate 4x4 is full of blow hard flamers so search search search first.
Good luck on the mods, it's not too hard of a project and has a lot of benefits.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea I was thinking of doing the shackle reversal too. I'm not wanting to spend alot of money on this thing at the moment cause it's just a weekend ride to take in the mud. also, if anyone has one of these with the I6 4.2L, I have these things on the top of the motor that look like they could be injectors or glow plugs ( I know gasers don't have glow plugs, and these motors have a carb.) but they have steel tube kinda like brake lines that come out of the to of them and someone has cut and sealed these lines and I don't know what they would go to.
 

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Post a pic and I'll find out for you
 

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Those are probably the air injectors for the smog system. Sounds like the emissions system has been "fixed".
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you must have a cruiser.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
it says in one of those links you gave me that you'd only need to get a longer front drive shaft if you do the shackle reversal. I wasn't going to do that, so I'm guessing I can just not worry about it? If I still need to do it, I'll just make me some shackles to lift it up 2.5" and put some 33's on it.
 

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You shouldn't have to worry about the rear but yes, the front may need a longer shaft. But the ride and steering benefit from the reversal and the gained clearnce on your approach angle is worth it.
Check out this link for a cheap, long travel front shaft. I build several of these for myself and buddies and they work great.
http://infohost.nmt.edu/~jscarbro/driveshaft.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #10
that looks like a good idea and I've got the steel I'd need to do that.
 

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First time I saw it I thought WTF! ghetto......
But then I built one and it worked great and it's way stronger than any of the custom built high doller jobs.
Never owned a cruiser, but been a yota head forever. My dad was a yota mechanic and used to run the Rubicon in a stock cruiser in the mid 70's. I've built a bunch of yota pickups and 4runners and a handful of cruisers so......ya, I'm kinda familier with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well, when you did the soa did you turn the axle? I'd think I'd just leave mine as is for now cause it's not going to get but maybe 4 mile of street use a week, the rest will be mud and trails. I have a ground problem now, the fuel, temp and oil guages arn't working and they were the other day. I'm going to get it fixed when I get off work tomorrow. If I did the lift and made a drive shaft, I think I'd make a boot or sleave kinda like what is on a stick shift and maybe put a lube point on it, just so it will slide good and it wont get grit and grime in it. my shackles are all bent up so I'm going to make me some more.
 

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I didn't put a boot on my d-shaft. I had the smaller tube on the bottom so it was harder for stuff to get stuck inside but the boot is a good idea. I did drill and tap my outside tube and put in a zerk fitting so I could grease it. I also ran a bead down each corner of the inside tube and then ground it a little at a time so it fit snug but free in the other one.
We usually did do the axle rotate when we've done soa's. If you don't do it right away, setup your spring perches so that your pinion angle is slightly upwards. This will leave your caster kind of screwed up but later if you decide to cut and turn your axles you won't have to relocate your perches too. Turning them is pretty easy though. You just grind the weld around the knuckle, make a line across the two sides then rotate the knuckle until it's got about 7 or 8 degs back then weld it back up.
Good luck with the wiring, that's always a PIA on those older rigs. Seems like every yahoo and his brother has practiced their wiring abilities on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yea it's in good shap as fare as thast goes, none of the wires have been worked on, I think it's a ground cause it was the same deal with the turn sig. Thanks for all the help, I'll be sure to get some pics when i get started on the lift.
 

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Can't wait to see it.

Here are a few pics of rigs I've worked on. The yellow one and the tiger stripped one were both mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
bad rigs, I'm doing the lift in the next few weeks, the guages just had a missing fuse so everything is good with that. I'm going to put a marine fuse box on soon. Also I was looking online at the options for powersteering and they have a kit that comes with everything but the gear box for $399 and the gear box you get goes where the stock one was so you don't need to cut on you frame and the gear box is out of harms way. I was getting a windsheild put in today cause the one thats in it now has the haze to it and a few cracks but the glass shop cant find one for it, at least not in the country.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok, I know this is a very strange question for most but, can I put a cat on the fj? I hate the smell that it gets and I'm thinking it wouldn't really hold back any power and Idc about the cound. I just want that thing to not have as strong a smell going down the road or when I'm going slow in the trails.
 

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You probably could, but I'm not sure that you'd have enough exhaust temp for it to work right. If you are getting a lot of smell I would think it needs a good tune up. Sounds like it's running too rich......or give it a differant smell and stick a cummins in it. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hell if i had the money I'd sure do that. We have a little isuzu npr work truck with and in line 4 diesel and we pull our 25' gooseneck and bobcat with it no problem, I'd love to put that motor in it, it also gets 17 mpg around town and 14mph pulling the gn on the hwy. but, back on topic, I just put new plugs in and I may take it to a shop and see what they can do with it. I just had to change out the brakes on it. www.sor.com wanted like $200 or more for a loaded caliper and I got a frt right caliper with 4 frt pads at O'rielly's for $43 with lifetime waranty.
 

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yep, eveything from spector comes gold plated.
I know a guy out here who put one of those isuzu's in his fj. That damn thing just chugs along and climbs anything. Usually you see the 350 chevy conversion. Still better milage than the F motor and with more power and about 200lbs less weight than the stocker.
Not sure what all yours has for emissions stuff but definetly check the timing, cap and rotor etc.
 
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