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Discussion Starter #1
So I put on one of those Napa 6637 filters 6 months ago but used a crappy pipe between the filter and intake and last Thursday it collapsed under load and sucked some electrical tape into the turbo... made a bunch of noise....complete loss of boost...now I'm getting ready to replace my turbo.

Anyway my truck will start and Idle normally, no smoke or strange noises. However if I rev it up at all and the turbo engages(some noise but not loud) I get a puffs of white smoke... Please tell me this can come from the turbo itself and doesn't mean automatically that I dusted my rings...

I have found a 'used' turbo with 100k on it. what should I look for to make sure it's worth bolting on? We are talking $300 vs $800(for reman stock) which is a lot of $$ to me right now.

I am planning on replacing the stock exhaust soon, is this something I should do now? Any part I should do now since I already have the turbo off?

Any help/advice is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
 

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So I put on one of those Napa 6637 filters 6 months ago but used a crappy pipe between the filter and intake and last Thursday it collapsed under load and sucked some electrical tape into the turbo... made a bunch of noise....complete loss of boost...now I'm getting ready to replace my turbo.

Anyway my truck will start and Idle normally, no smoke or strange noises. However if I rev it up at all and the turbo engages(some noise but not loud) I get a puffs of white smoke... Please tell me this can come from the turbo itself and doesn't mean automatically that I dusted my rings...

I have found a 'used' turbo with 100k on it. what should I look for to make sure it's worth bolting on? We are talking $300 vs $800(for reman stock) which is a lot of $$ to me right now.

I am planning on replacing the stock exhaust soon, is this something I should do now? Any part I should do now since I already have the turbo off?

Any help/advice is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Will
The white smoke can definitely come from the bad turbo if it is passing oil. How much play does the shaft have?

As for the used turbo... I would rebuild it before putting it on if I were you. It is not very expensive and it is fairly easy to do.

You can replace the exhaust at any time. It is not any easier or harder if the turbo is removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rebuild the Turbo

So is there a reason not to rebuild the existing bad turbo? I didn't know they were "rebuild-able". I am a decent wrench but don't have a shop or special tools... just the standards but am willing to invest if I feel the need. ( I have rebuilt the fuel bowl and replaced the water pump already)

On the Turbo's...how do I tell if they are bad? Shaft play, fin damage, what else specifically should I look for?

If I rebuild it anything special I should do while I'm at it? Wicked Wheel or other upgrades?

I have one of your (F5-rotary switch) chips with a and am planning on having it burned soon with just the basics. Looking for MPG, Drive-ability, occasional rock climbing & mud play. Suggestions?
 

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So is there a reason not to rebuild the existing bad turbo? I didn't know they were "rebuild-able". I am a decent wrench but don't have a shop or special tools... just the standards but am willing to invest if I feel the need. ( I have rebuilt the fuel bowl and replaced the water pump already)

On the Turbo's...how do I tell if they are bad? Shaft play, fin damage, what else specifically should I look for?

If I rebuild it anything special I should do while I'm at it? Wicked Wheel or other upgrades?

I have one of your (F5-rotary switch) chips with a and am planning on having it burned soon with just the basics. Looking for MPG, Drive-ability, occasional rock climbing & mud play. Suggestions?
If the compressor or turbine wheels did not touch the housings then you can rebuild your old turbo. No special tools needed.

Shaft play is the main thing that signifies a bad turbo. A little bit of side to side play is okay/normal, but you should have no in and out play. Damaged fins on the compressor wheel do not necessarily mean the turbo is bad, but the wheel should be replaced if this is the case.

You can throw a WW on there if you are rebuilding it. You will only see a difference if you are experiencing surge.

Most people go with at least three tunes. This would include economy, tow, and performance. If you do not tow with the truck, a tow tune is not needed but is still good to have in case you ever hook up to something. Feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail and we can go over what would work best for you needs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oil in Turbo

So I began the process last night (w/ kids around both ankles) of taking the turbo out. Once I got the molded intake boots off I can see the wheel is chipped up a bit. Getting further in I disconnected the "Y" pipe there is a puddle of oil in there that looks to be coming from the turbo... i also notice the breather tube under the molded boot (PCV valve?) on the intake side of the turbo has oil coming out of it, could this be where the oil is coming from? Am hoping this is a "good" sign that the burning oil isn't from toasted rings, but now I have another mystery of where the oil is actually coming from...


This is all the further I got (w/ kids around both ankles) but am ready to finish pulling the Turbo out tonight & breaking it down further.
 

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So I began the process last night (w/ kids around both ankles) of taking the turbo out. Once I got the molded intake boots off I can see the wheel is chipped up a bit. Getting further in I disconnected the "Y" pipe there is a puddle of oil in there that looks to be coming from the turbo... i also notice the breather tube under the molded boot (PCV valve?) on the intake side of the turbo has oil coming out of it, could this be where the oil is coming from? Am hoping this is a "good" sign that the burning oil isn't from toasted rings, but now I have another mystery of where the oil is actually coming from...


This is all the further I got (w/ kids around both ankles) but am ready to finish pulling the Turbo out tonight & breaking it down further.
Did you check for shaft play on the turbo first? The CCV is most definitely sending oil fumes/vapor through there and the Y pipe have oil in it regardless of if the turbo is bad or not. You can do the CCV mod to eliminate this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A Little further in

Well after T-Ball last night I got to finish tearing it down. Got the Turbo removed despite that rear v-clamp giving me he!!. :beer Anyway there was lots of side to side play in the shaft but very little in/out. Got a rebuild kit coming with a new wheel. Should I be doing the pedestal rebuild too? So far I just left it in. Thinking of doing the EBPV delete while I'm in there. And a LOT of Cleaning!!! will post back when I get further along.

Thanks Again!

Will
 

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Well after T-Ball last night I got to finish tearing it down. Got the Turbo removed despite that rear v-clamp giving me he!!. :beer Anyway there was lots of side to side play in the shaft but very little in/out. Got a rebuild kit coming with a new wheel. Should I be doing the pedestal rebuild too? So far I just left it in. Thinking of doing the EBPV delete while I'm in there. And a LOT of Cleaning!!! will post back when I get further along.

Thanks Again!

Will
Yes, that rear v-band clamp is no fun. I usually use a flat blade screw driver and a hammer to break it loose.

You do not need to mess with the pedestal unless it is leaking.
 

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Wouldn’t excessive blow by out of the oil filler (with cap removed) signify bad rings? I know it’s not as definitive as a leak down test but it’s simple and cheap. Excessive blow by could also be caused by bad o rings on the injectors too I believe. But then you would also have a dead or almost dead cylinder.
 

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Wouldn’t excessive blow by out of the oil filler (with cap removed) signify bad rings? I know it’s not as definitive as a leak down test but it’s simple and cheap. Excessive blow by could also be caused by bad o rings on the injectors too I believe. But then you would also have a dead or almost dead cylinder.
It would have to get by the copper washer and all of the injector o-rings to be blowing by the injector. This is extremely unlikely and I have never personally seen this happen. You would definitely tell something was wrong though if this ever happened.

Blow-by is generally from combustion pressure going past the rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Took Me Two Tries

So when I finally got back around to tearing down and rebuilding the turbo It took me two hours to get the dang turbine wheel off. Couldn't get hold of it good enough W/Vice Grips & had to go to my FIL's to use his air impact wrench!!!
After that fiasco it came apart the rest of the way easy enough. Ends up the groove where the ring fits in was missing the ring altogether and the groove itself was a bit mashed up.I cleaned it up with a file and some emery paper and put everything together & back into the truck.

HAD NO BOOST! Still spewing white smoke!!! What the HECK! Pulled the intake and the turbo wasn't spinning at all!

Ended up taking it back out and tearing it back down. Apparently I did not clean up the groove sufficiently and the ring was binding instead of floating smoothly in that groove. This time I just put the shaft into an electric drill and put the drill in a vice. I used saws-all blades to clean and smooth up the groove itself along with emery paper until everything was smooth as a baby's bottom. put everything back together again...this time making sure the whole time that everything was spinning freely :)

This time everything is working awesome! Slightly louder Turbo Whine but also definitely a noticeable increase in acceleration compared to prior to failure.

Thanks for your advise everyone!
 
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