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********* and Mafia #90
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ball Joint: Service and Repair
- Upper

Removal
1. Remove the wheel knuckle.
2. Place the wheel knuckle into a suitable vise.
3. NOTE: Always remove the lower ball joint first.
Remove the lower ball Joint.
4. Using the special tools, remove the ball joint.

Installation

1. Clean the wheel knuckle ball Joint bores.(sand lightly if needed
2. install the ball joint.(do not beat with hammer)
3. Install the lower ball Joint.
4. Install the wheel knuckle.

Ball Joint: Service and Repair
- Lower
Removal
1. Remove the wheel knuckle.
2. Place the wheel knuckle into a suitable vise.
3. If equipped, remove the ball joint grease fitting.
4. Remove the snap ring.(small punches work at times)
5. remove the ball joint.(again hammers, clamps ect can be used)

Installation
1. Clean the wheel knuckle ball joint bore.
2. install the ball joint.(again to not beat in)
3. Install the snap ring.
4.Install grease fitting-Caution: Do not over tighten the ball joint grease fitting.
5. Install the wheel knuckle.



Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair
Removal
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2. Remove the front brake disc. See: Brakes and Traction Control/Disc Brake System/Brake Rotor/Disc/Service and Repair
3. Remove the wheel hub and bearing. See: Wheel Hub/Service and Repair
4. Using a drift, drive the axle shaft main seal out of the wheel knuckle.
5. Remove the axle shaft and main seal.
6. Remove the tie-rod end castellated nut.
*1. Remove the cotter pin.
*2. Remove the castellated nut.
7. Using the special tool, disconnect the tie-rod end from the wheel knuckle.
8. Remove the upper ball joint castellated nut and the insert.
*1. Remove the cotter pin.
*2. Remove the nut.
*3. Remove the insert.
9. Remove the wheel knuckle.
*1. Remove the lower ball joint nut.
*2. Remove the knuckle.
10. Clean and inspect the wheel knuckle ball joint bores.

Installation
1. Position the wheel knuckle onto the axle housing.
2. Install the nut onto the lower ball joint. Do not tighten the nut at this time.
3. Install the insert and the castellated nut onto the upper ball joint. Do not tighten the nut at this time.
4. Tighten the lower ball joint retaining nut. Pre-tighten the nut to 64 Nm (47 lb-ft).
5. NOTE: Do not loosen the castellated nut to install the cotter pin.
Install the cotter pin into the upper ball joint.
*1. Tighten the upper ball joint castellated nut.
*2. Install the cotter pin. If necessary, tighten the castellated nut until the cotter pin can be installed.
6. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 204 Nm (150 lb-ft).
7. Install the tie-rod end onto the wheel knuckle.
*1. Position the tie-rod end into the wheel knuckle.
*2. Install and tighten the castellated nut.
*3. Install the cotter pin.
8. Install the new main seal onto the axle shaft.
*1. Position the main seal onto the axle shaft.
*2. Using tools and a hammer, seat the main seal onto the axle shaft.
9. Position the axle shaft into the axle housing.
10. Using tools and a hammer, install the main seal into the wheel knuckle.
11. Install the wheel hub and bearing. See: Wheel Hub/Service and Repair
12. Install the front brake disc. See: Brakes and Traction Control/Disc Brake System/Brake Rotor/Disc/Service and Repair

Note: inner dust seal, hub vacuum seal and the associated o-rings
should be replaced when doing the ball joints (on 4x4's)

*Ball joint press is the only special tool that is needed
*Axel seal tool would make it easier or you can make on.
 
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********* and Mafia #90
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14,261 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
No its like a big c clamp
 

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Senior Member
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A WIDE pickle fork works well to pop the knuckle free from the axletube yoke--the smaller size from most parts shops isn't big enough.
 

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Senior Member
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No its like a big c clamp
A strong 1/2" impact is your friend when using that style of press. I suppose a 1/2" ratchet would work but the impact made things sooooo much easier when I changed mine that even if I had to buy (vs. borrow) it, it would have been worth it.
 

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Don't forget the axle seal tool... :thumbsup
 

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Senior Member
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you didnt mention that the inner dust seal, hub vacuum seal and the associated o-rings
should be replaced when doing the ball joints (on 4x4's)
 

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Don't forget the axle seal tool... :thumbsup
True--I R/R'ed the ball joints when my buddy and I had my frontend apart to install my Dynatrac kit so I didn't need that particular tool b/c the Dynatrac kit eliminated the parts that require it.
 

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********* and Mafia #90
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14,261 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
you didnt mention that the inner dust seal, hub vacuum seal and the associated o-rings
should be replaced when doing the ball joints (on 4x4's)
Thats y we have you around. :thumbsup It would be a real smart idea to do it wile its out or vacuum problems could come abought like mine did.
 

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off to another home
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so roughly what am i looking at, money wise, to replace both upper and lower ball joints plus whatever Don recommended?

Garrett
 

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********* and Mafia #90
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14,261 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Alot. LOL soulds do ujoints and all wile in there, when you take the hub out and dissasembel the front end like that you risk tearing up seals so should do it all at once, pissed i didnt.
 

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parts alone youre lookin at $200-$300 (and thats using lifetime grease-able ball joints)

if a dealer does it...youll be lucky to get outta the garage for under 900 (some have reported
paying 1100-1200) and you WONT have lifetime warranty parts or grease-able ball joints.

i dont recommend buying hard parts that have lifetime warranty, only cause
its hard to exchange 'em (most want the old parts back 1st before theyll
send replacements).

http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=337319&siteid=214083&catalogid=4411

autozone as an example carries lifetime grease-able units and theyll loan you
the tools <for free>...and you can save yourself between 50 & 100 bucks -

upper balljoint is 35 bucks (autozone or orielly)
lower ball joint is 32 bucks (autozone or orielly)
the dust seal is about 10 bucks (az or oriel)
the yellow hub o-rings are about 5 bucks (dealer only)
and the hub vac. seal is 50 bucks each (dealer only)

youll need 2 of everything above.
 

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I had the inner knuckle bearing go out on the front driver side of my 03 F-250 I use alldata as a tech repair but i can not see how to get the inner seal out with a drift. I would be greatful for any help.
 
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