some of the 466's around that time were equipped with intake heaters because the compression ratio was turned down on those engines to help with emissions. lower compression ratio, fuel does not ignite as well as when cold. if you have a heater unit installed on your intake then i would think that the wait to start light should work. if it doesn't, may have to change your programming. gauge clusters were similar for most all international trucks around that size and some had engines that had glow plugs, some don't. what type of fan clutch do you have? is it a viscous fan clutch or an air operated fan clutch or something else? could be a bad fan clutch or a bad sending unit somewhere depending on what you have. the odd coolant temps may be coming from the fan clutch not working as it should or maybe a thermostat acting up. that's my best hunch.

 

Sherrill,

1) You may, or may not have an intake heater. Most trucks sold up north had them in '04/5 but not all and rare in the south. Look for one or two RED wires running to the area of the intake hose or where the intake pipe meets the manifold. Each large (6ga) RED wire represents one heater element. None have GPs.

2) The ECT sensor is mounted to the A/C bracket. Follow the FRONT LOWER A/C mounting bolt down and it's right under the bracket ear. A PITA with the drive belt on.

3) My friend, your viscous fan drive may be SHOT. They are typically only good for 3-4 years before they get weak. There is a relatively involved test you can do, but honestly it's cheaper to change it than test it. My advice, get a Horton ES-450 installed and have a seperate swtich installed in the coolant pipe to control it. There are various ports to do this. Or, simply replace the stock clutch every 3-5 years. IMO, it's not worth the overheating risk in the deep south though.

 

1: the intake heater(if equipped) will come on at about 50-55* or colder. Any warmer, and it just doesn't need it.

2: that's about the range of the 06 I drive. It is usually 170 until I get hauling a trailer or stop & go driving. Then, it'll get hotter.

3:The fan should come on about 215 from what I remember.

 

The IAH is a function of ambient temp, coolant temp and barometric pressure (altitude).

 

Help......

Update....I got a problem in this extreme cold. My truck will not crank. Its an 2005 Int 4300. 5H106885. I have been plugging in the block heater in the cold and haven't had a problem until now. The "wait to start" indicator never (since I have owned the truck 3 years) stays on longer than any other indicators when you turn the swith on. With strong batts, all i get is is wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa--wa----wa------wa-------wa-----------wa--------------wa. Now this truck has never just fired right up on a warm day. It turns over about 5 or 6 times on a but always cranks.
Is my wait to start function bad? A IHC mechanic told me I had a bad "INTAKE GRID HEATER". This mechanic didnt run my vin. Can anyone tell me where to start to fix this problem? Where is the intake grid heater? Can I replace it. (i have a mechanical background) I found that is easier to ask you guys where to start. Thanks in advance.

Im renting a truck due to this. I would like to get truck going asap.

 

Are you certain your truck has an intake heater? I'm guessing your truck is not starting even though its plugged in? In Michigan, when they first started selling trucks with the newer EGR 466 engines, they did not come from the factory with the intake heaters. They were installed as a recall when trucks couldn't start in the cold like yours. Then they have to reprogram the ECM in order to operate the intake heater and make the wait to start light come on. Seems like these engines would start with a little longer cranking so the cam sensors and crank sensors could figure out the engine timing.

 

The truck you have was sold out of Missippi and not built with an intake heater, they are retro-fittable with little trouble.

Where are you with the truck, moreover, how cold is it where you are?

 

My 06 at work sure looks like it came with a grid heater from the factory. If it sits for more than 3 days, I have to jump start it. That grid heater takes a ton of juice! I also think it's under par on batteries, but I cant do much about it. They are 2 HD truck batteries the size of a Group27 batt.

 

I don't have much experience with IHC like other guys, but some ideas on my mind.
1. your truck is 2005. It's 2010 If battery is original MAY BE time to change.
2. If it is cold winters where you are, consider to put Shell/1 gal. SAE 5W-40 Shell Rotella T synthetic motor oil (autozone $20 per galon. I am in NH and it's cold here. I LOVE this oil. It does make a diference.
3. Check your ground wire. Best way is: ask some one to crank starter wile you hold on to it. Just make shure you hold it befor starter cranking. If it is geting hot you will release grip of it before burn your hand. Other wise you grab it wile it's hot and you got booboo. Obviosly if the wire gets too hot you got problems with it. Also feel both connectors of the ground wire. knok it with small hamer (ligtly), try to tight it.

 

Never,

2 Gp 31s are stock, there is room for 3 and I'd advise anyone to use 3 north of the M-D line or at high altitude.

The 2 element GHs pull about 250A while on and the ECM disables the GH as soon as it sees RPM so if you don't wait until the light goes out to crank, the GHs are not hot enough to work properly.

 

Man.....I cant believe I forgot group 31. I was a NAPA guy for a few years too. I must be getting old.
It would be just right, as you mention, to have a 3rd batt, but my Altec body prohibits that because they're inside a bin. It's on its 3rd set of batts too. Leaving the 4500 watt inverter on overnight a few times didnt help it either.

 

Ok....good info.

I’m in north/central Alabama. The cool temps have been with us for about a week. The lows are in the low teens and highs around freezing. I replaced my 2 batteries on 2/6/09 because the cranking was getting slower and slower. Then....the truck never seemed to turn over much faster with the new batteries. I had the new batteries checked shortly after I bought them and the parts store said they were good so I ran them. I remove the batteries yesterday and had them checked again. Different parts store. Guy said the batteries are good but need to be charged. Installed the batteries and cleaned ALL cable ends. I left the batteries on a charge all night in cold weather, in the truck. Tried to crank truck today 1/9/10 during the warmest part of the day (28 degrees). Engine turned over good for about 5 sec, coughed once and batteries went down. No Go. I do not want to use starter fluid on my truck. I’m going to purge the fuel system tomorrow and add a new battery, remove the two existing batteries and charge at room temp. Check ground cable and check to see if my block heater is working.

Whats the part # for the GH.

Thats a start.....You guys are great. thanks sherrill

 

Oh yeah....The batteries that came out of the truck were OEM's. My local parts store supplied me with Deka's. Could that be my problem? What brand do you prefer?

 

Cependant il y a une question dont vous devez observer avec le groupe 31 batteries sont le froid démarrant à la manivelle des amplis {CCA} vous aurez besoin d'au moins 925 CCA chacun je sais qu'ils vendent 650 CCA mais cela le non valant de cela vous n'organiserez jamais ce début avec des petites batteries évaluées.

800 CCA sont à peu près sur la ligne pour économique entre les deux j'irai avec l'évaluation la plus haute dans cette taille de groupe.

Il y a quelques bonnes batteries vous pouvez capable heurté je sais qu'au moins 4 ou 5 d'entre eux sont bons tout cela selon où vous obtenez les batteries.


However there is one issue you have to watch out with group 31 batteries is the cold cranking amps { CCA } you will need at least 925 CCA each I know they do sell 650 CCA but it not worth it you will never get this start up with small rated batteries.

800 CCA is pretty much on the line for cost wise between the two I will go with the highest rating in that group size.

There are quite few good batteries you can able run into I know at least 4 or 5 of them are good all it depending on where you get the batteries.

Merci,Marc

 

Batery

definetly CCA is minimum 800Amp. My batterys are 950.
Brand you chose by suppliers (service) you have arround. Another words if drive awa from your house (garage) and you need to exchange make sure you can walk into other store/shop and get service on this brand.
Me personaly, I prefear Sears. In my area where I go there is Sears with in 10 miles.

 

My battery brands of choice are Deka or Interstate, I won't use anything else now as a replacement (Ford OEMs are very good, but service are not so much any more).

The '04-'05 DTs did have starting issues below 40*F which is why they went to the grid heaters for '05 (single element) and dual elements in '06.

From your sescription, I am convinced that you have a charging problem causing low battery capacity. If you need to charge the batteries in the AM, the alternator may not be doing it's job well. Once started, the alternator MUST output at least 13.6V accross the B+ and B- terminals, closer to 14.2 at 1200 RPM is the norm. You must also have the same voltage AT the battery terminals (not cable lugs) while charging, a "loss" of 1/2V is allowed (0.5v) but no more.

If the block heater is working, you should hear a "snap" at the cord when you plug it in and the block should get warm on the driver's side above the starter and infront of the ECM within half an hour.

 

John., Tant le nom de batterie que j'ai les voit qu'ils sont bons et pas beaucoup de question et j'obtiens vraiment GNB aussi {il est du même comme Deka}
Merci de la tête en haut avec les appareils de chauffage de réseau sur 05 et 06 modèle

Cependant je ne sais pas quel alternateur de taille l'OP avait vraiment dans le camion mais je sais qu'usealy vient avec 90 ou 120 taille d'ampli et en lisant trop bas à l'alternateur avec la tension interAl-regualtor cela devrait être assez près à 14.25 volts quand chaud mais froid cela devrait être peu plus haut, mais non TROP quoi que ce soit que plus de 14.5 volts sont trop hauts.

Pour l'appareil de chauffage de bloc John est correct et il y a encore un pas aussi vous pouvez entendu sorta comme le son sifflant faible aussi.

N'utilisez pas le devoir léger le prolongateur bon marché qui peut vraiment affecter l'appareil de chauffage de bloc performace et peut risquer de brûlent en haut le prolongateur si l'utilisation non plus petit que 2.5mm ² {14 AWG} dû l'appareil de chauffage de bloc dessine vraiment environ 1000 watts

John ., Both battery name I have see them and they are good and not much issue and I do get GNB as well { it is about the same as Deka }

Thanks for the head up with the grid heaters on 05 and 06 model

However I do not know what size alternator the OP did have in the truck but I know usealy come with 90 or 120 amp size and if reading too low at the alternator with interal voltage regualtor it should be pretty close to 14.25 volts when warm but cold it should be little higher but not TOO much anything over 14.5 volt is too high.

For the block heater John is correct and there is one more step as well you can heard sorta like weak hissing sound as well.

Do not use light duty cheap extension cord that can really affect the block heater performace and can risk of burn up extension cord so use no smaller than 2.5mm² { 14 AWG } due the block heater do draw about 1000 watts

Merci,Marc

 

Marc is correct, a GOOD extension cord is critical, the BHs draw 1100-1400 watts, that's 10-12 amps!

14.25V is the "normal" operating voltage when warmed up, anything up to 15.2 is ok when "cold".

 

update.......

Ok.....change around some extension cords yesterday. Went over to crank truck about 4 this afternoon (it’s setting at a drivers house about 10 miles away). It fired up.......I let it run at 1k rpm's while I went back home to get a ride back to get truck. Drove the truck home...everything is good. Volts, oil press, all OK. Get home, (truck has been running now for about an hour) shut the truck off and immediately try to restart it. It won’t start. It's spinning over good but will not start. Just like it’s out of fuel but it’s not out of fuel.
What’s up? This is probably why it wouldn’t start Fri.

 

Has the engine been pressure washed recently? Water inflitration at the CPS connector is a common cause of no-starts hot and cold. Otherwise, the IDM fuse in the battery box and related 3 terminal connector for the "clean power" circuits can also cause this intermittant problem.

Did you get any smoke from the pipe?

 

John G.,

Je déteste intervenir votre orteil pour un minuite.,

Le Navistar a vraiment fait sortir le TSB lié à cette situation pour la source de pouvoir d'IDM ?


I hate to step in your toe for a minuite .,

Did the Navistar did send out the TSB related to this situation for IDM power source ?


Merci,Marc

 

update......

Just came in from working on truck. Engine still warm, truck plugged in. First thing I done was purge the fuel system and check fuel filter. All ok except I did get a little air out of the FR bleeder valve. Got in and it fired right up.

Washed every two weeks but not this week. They never wash under the hood unless I request.
The IDM fuse? (im clueless) I did take the batteries out yesterday and was moving the cables around in battery box to clean them. What do I need to do now? If the truck is running now the IDM fuse is ok. Right?
Truck is running now. I DID turn if off and it DID crank right back up this time. This truck has never failed to start until now.....

 

Si je me le rappelle le droit le fusible d'IDM est localisé sommet ou la section foward de boîte de batterie un de deux endroits et vérifier les rapports je suis assez sûr qu'il a été corrodé certains comment qu'il est arrivé et vous déplacez les fils autour un peu qui peut aider à le faire connecter.

Ce que vous devez faire est propre tout le rapport à l'emplacement de boîte de batterie et ne dominer pas les rapports de terre aussi.


If I recall it right the IDM fuse is located either top or foward section of battery box one of two places and check the connections I am pretty sure it was corroded some how what it got and you move the wires around a little that may help to get it connected.

What you need to do is clean all the connection at the battery box location and don't overlook the ground connections also.


Merci,Marc

 

Just turned truck off at full operating temp. Turned it over. Nope....wont start. Its turning over good, just wont hit. Acts like no fuel or heat. Dang it.....

 

Je pense que j'ai entendu dire que la situation auparavant et je pense plutôt CPS qui est placé le front gauche du moteur IIRC quelqu'un a fait déclaré qui peut faire la douleur dans le bout entrer là si vous avez le compresseur aérien là.

Votre camion a-t-il jeté des codes encore quand ce happend ?



I think I heard that situation before and I am thinking more like CPS that is located left front of the engine IIRC someone did stated that can get pain in butt to get into there if you have air compressor there.

Did your truck throw any codes yet when this happend ?

Merci,Marc

 

I will look at the CPS tomorrow and see if it has a bad connection. I'll also look at the IDM fuse if I can find it and check for fault codes.

 

Water in fuel

Sherrill,
You mentined about fuel filters.
1. Check visualy if fuel line from tank is not damaged, as well check if connectors not get lose.
2. If all electonics are OK, take out both fuel filters, bring them into warm place, flip it over into some see through contaner. Let it sit for an hour or so.

Water in the filters drove me crazy for 3 weeks on my 2005 IHC4300. Very same simptoms.

 

When you turn the key to "run", do you hear the injectors "pre-cycle"? If not, the IDM is dead, no power. Check the fuses and connections (sealed) in the battery box.

If you get a pre-cycle noise (a few seconds of underhood clicking/ratteling) and no smoke unplug the CPS (below A/C compressor near fan hub on RH side) and plug back in.