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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok i dont know if this is in the right section but ive got an issue.a couple months back my truck had issues with not wanting to start in the colder weather.when it was warm its would start and run just fine.i could get it to run after priming the fuel pump a few times but after a while it got worse.it never threw a code until last month which was the fuel rail pressuer sensor.i replaced it the other day and it fired up on the first try but after i shut it off it wouldnt run again at all.it would turn over but wouldnt run so i replaced the fuel pump from my local oreilies auto parts store and put it in and still nothing.im at a loss here on what to do.ive checked the inertia switch and the 05 does not have a fuel pressure regulator or a fuel pump relay.it has just over 200k on it.please help it sucks trying to ride a motorcycle in the winter here in nc
 

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Senior Member
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1,570 Posts
Are you scanning for codes with a generic OBDII scanner, or with a diagnostics tool that can read the Ford specific codes?
 

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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ive done this with a normal scanner from the parts store.i plan to take it to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue cause ive done everything i can think of,plus i came across an alldata tsb that states what sounds like my issue and it says the ecu has to be reflashed.would the dealer charge me for the reflash or would it fall under a recall if it needs to be done?
 

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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
ive changed the battery along with a new fuel filter and cleaned the maf sensor since ive posted this and it still has the issue.it keeps throwing a p0191 which is fuel pressuer/performance
 

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Senior Member
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1,570 Posts
You need to get the codes read at a dealership or by someone with an AutoEnginuity or other scanner that can read Ford-specific codes.

The TSB you saw on reflashing probably isn't a recall, so it would be optional and cost you $80-120 depending on the dealership rates.
 

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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks man ive been racking my brain trying to figure this out and i realized its over my head.so next week its going to the stealership.this is my first truck and i was looking forward to seeing how it would do this winter when it snows
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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1,296 Posts
It sounds like you have an obstruction in a line, be it a collapse, a kink, something. If you can access a regulated air supply, dial the pressure down to 25-30psi (less than the normal fuel pressure so no damage can occur), remove the sensor from the rail and with a rubber tipped nozzle blow out the lines. Cycle the key and see if it starts. If it starts, you have something in the lines causing your issue.

On an '05, you have a returnless fuel system and there will be a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) located somewhere on the truck. These DO FAIL. If you access the wiring to the fuel pump at the tank you should see between 8v and 13v to the pump.

Finally, these trucks are drive by wire, like the diesels, so no throttle cable. You can pump the pedal til it falls off and it won't do much, there's no accelerator pump and it won't let you have any more air during cranking.

I'd suggest getting the test procedure for the FPDM online and check it. Almost 25 years of working on these things and over a decade playing with returnless systems would have pointed me there first. With a little testing on your own you may save yourself an expensive trip to the dealership.
 

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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
i found the driver module but havent tested it.the casing looks fine so far its not beat up or anything.ill try to test it.the lines dont seem to be blocked from what i can tell.it runs normal on days that are 55 or warmer,wouldnt a blockage affect it all the time?i will try to use the pressurized are to see if that helps.
 

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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
if i cant get it fixed for under a thousand ill just go ahead and swap a 12 valve cummins in.i bought the truck planning on doing this but i thought the v10 would last at least a winter season first
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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1,296 Posts
Your earlier posts made it sound like the truck had stopped running at all. I would t worry about the lines then. If it runs when the temp is up, but not when it's cold, it could be an issue with power delivery or grounding. Highly likely the FPDM is bad, not providing enough amperage to the pump when it's cold. Could also be the ACT sensor (built into the MAF or located in the air intake system).

If the engine has high miles, and you haven't personally changed the spark plugs, or have a record of it being done, it's probably a good idea to check and probably replace them. They are $8-15 each for that engine depending on where you buy them, and of course you'll need ten. I've seen the 3-valve plugs totally trashed in a stock '06 Mustang with just 65k on them, the gaps were over 0.120"! They start with a gap of around 0.050"! This particular plug design really needs to be changed every 25k on these engines.

For what it's worth, the bigger the gap, the more resistance the plug has to jumping the spark. Combine that with colder denser air also increasing the resistance to the spark in the cylinder, and you may have your culprit. If the computer has sensed that there are misfires and unburned fuel present it may have trimmed the fuel to te point that the cold mis is just too lean to fire.

Be VERY careful removing the plugs though. These plugs are notorious for breaking off the projected ground and porcelain in the head, and then you have to have the dealer or someone with the special tools remove the remnants. Gently back the plugs off 1/8-1/4 turn and spray a good penetrating oil with a solvent component to loosen up the carbon down near the threads, the let them sit for an hour or more, then gently work them out. And they are a goofy 9/16" plug, so you'll possibly want to buy the correct spark plug socket.
 

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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
my mistake i should have specified more about them.ive changed plugs before but not with this truck.im a little worried about doing them myself but the dealer wants 400 just to replace them so ill have to do thiem myself.as far as my driver module goes ill check that first.my truck is a cc sb and has the fuel tank before the axle.the dealer says the fpdm would be either directly over the tank or the spare tire but they couldnt give me a def answer.i think i found it under the spare tire but do any of you guys know for sure where it is?
 

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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
thanks for the help guys i ended up taking it to the dealer cause i havent had the time to diagnose it myself.they said its the fpdm so ill be replacing this myself.im assuming that the old one just unplugs and the new one plugs in then im done,or do i have to prime it or something else to fix it?
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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It's plug and play. Good to hear.
 

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Junior Member
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
bad news.apparently the dealer was wrong I just replaced the fpdm and the truck still wont run right,in fact it seems to run worse now.it starts without me having to prime it but it lopes for a few secounds then stalls out and it i give it gas it dies immiediatly.im going back to the dealer tommorow to tell them in hopes that they will diagnose it for free this time untill the issue is fixed.im really getting frustrated with this now i really need to get my truck running but i dont know what to do.i have very little faith now that even the dealer can figure it out.
 
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