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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 F250 6.0L diesel.It will not crank. I have put new batteries in it, the old
ones were shot. I have checked all the fuses and they are good. On a OBD reader I get 2 codes.

1st code- Injector Pressure Control Sensor voltage low
2nd code - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit Open

Any idea what is causing the no crank problem?
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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If by no crank you are indicating the engine is not turning, your potential issues are: failed starter, power issues from the ignition switch through the relays and PCM, or hydro locked cylinder due to a failed EGR cooler.

If the starter is turning the engine, no crank is the wrong description and it would be a fail to start. The diagnosis would involve determining fuel is present with 50+psi, oil is present, and that the engine meets both the base oil system pressure and volume, and that high pressure oil system reaches minimum pressure of about 500psi.

If the truck has never had any high pressure oil system repairs and isn't making enough pressure, it could simply be an STC fitting, a $60 fix that takes about 7-8 hours for a first timer. If the truck is not making any pressure, the HPOP is potentially the issue. More info is needed to further diagnose.

Don't randomly buy stuff to fix things either, take a little time to figure out what's wrong, then you can spend you money better on anything related that may need attention while your getting to the source of your current problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Idaho350. Sorry I wasn't clear on the no crank. it won't turn over at all. About the only thing I haven't checked is the starter, although I have bumped the starter and it does engage. I'm gonna look a little closer at the starter and the starter relay today.
 

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If you hit the key and the starter clunks or thuds, it's engaging the flywheel. At that point, check your coolant level. If it's down, and you don't know where it was going, it's in a cylinder. Most likely EGR cooler failure, at which you need to remove all the glow plugs, turn the engine by hand several rotations to clear the coolant from te cylinders, then try cranking again. At that point it should crank, but don't try starting it. Pull the EGR valve and see if it looks wet and gummed up if it does you'll need to install a new EGR cooler. You'll need an oil cooler and EGR cooler kit, probably a new EGR valve, coolant, oil and filter, and a 12-pack of beer for when you're done, possibly a case if things don't go well. I you start on a Saturday morning you should be done by Saturday night, but you may need to finish Sunday depending on your skill level and tool selection. Everything is metric, you'll need deep and shallow sockets, extensions and I'd suggest a small mirror and magnet on telescoping sticks. My 6.0 did this back in '08, it happens.
 

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I completely agree with Idaho on this one.

Hopefully when the locked engine situation ocurred it was while it was in the driveway or garage and not while cruising down the road, otherwise it is likely to get really expensive.

Harry
 

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Before you get too deep into it make sure nothing belt driven is locked up, a/c comp especially.
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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Before you get too deep into it make sure nothing belt driven is locked up, a/c comp especially.
If the coolant level is normal and he hasn't added, I would say this is possible, however, less likely.
 

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Injector tip failure is another possibiity for a hydro-lock. Probably need to hand crank it and see if there is any movement with the belt loose or removed.

Harry
 

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Before you get too deep into it make sure nothing belt driven is locked up, a/c comp especially.
I agree here ^^^^^^^^^

Have you had A/C issues lately?

Just pull the belt off and give it a crank.

There is a thread on one of the truck forums where an A/C was locked up. Three shops said it was hydro locked. They trailered the truck back to Arizona from back east and found it was the A/C clutch. Sad part was, the second post on the thread
had suggested it being this issue.

Good luck!
 

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Seems this has been diagnosed as a failed A/C compressor then. Disregard my suggestion to check for low coolant, as using your eyes to view something is apparently more difficult than taking the belt off. :rolleyes:

It could also be injector related as Harry suggests, both injector tip and the copper washer and o-rings are possibilities. There is even a remote chance that it could be a seriously blown head gasket, cracked head, or other mechanical failure. But as this member posted minimal info about the truck, no history or modifications list, it is hard to say what it is, or know any specific direction to look to. Everything posted here to help would be a wild-assed guess.
 

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Seems this has been diagnosed as a failed A/C compressor then. Disregard my suggestion to check for low coolant, as using your eyes to view something is apparently more difficult than taking the belt off. :rolleyes:

It could also be injector related as Harry suggests, both injector tip and the copper washer and o-rings are possibilities. There is even a remote chance that it could be a seriously blown head gasket, cracked head, or other mechanical failure. But as this member posted minimal info about the truck, no history or modifications list, it is hard to say what it is, or know any specific direction to look to. Everything posted here to help would be a wild-assed guess.
Easy. Snide remarks are why no one participates on TDG anymore and it's on its death bed. Not a contest on who is smarter. I know several members who have left due to this.

Armybass please post more info about the truck lots of good suggestions but without some background info W.A.G. is about all anyone can do.

Wes
 
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Quick question Idaho -

From what I have seen, a failing air conditioning compressor will usually (not true ALL the time though) cause weak cranks before it locks up completely. Is this where you are coming from?

thanks.
 

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Bismic - Failing accessories usually tear up the belt. You'll have excessive belt dust, especially around the failing accessory. You'll also usually have symptoms leading up to the component failure, either performance issues, like poor a/c performance or charging issues, or loss of assist and or noise from the power steering pump. Tensioner and idler pulley failures usually have a grumble, knock or squeak prior to failure. The biggest thing at play here is the starter sound of engagement would be a soft thud thanks to the belt, as opposed to a solid clunk on a hydro-locked engine.

Weld - I'll leave this one and the rest be from here out. I'm tired of trying to help people anyway, I've done it my entire life and it usually results in me getting screwed. I'll stick to my build thread over in the 7.3 Forum, ralphinnj style. The economy hurt membership badly from 2009-2011, the acquisition by AutoGuide put this place on life support. When is the last time River City Diesel posted in the 6.0L Forum, or GOS in the Cummins Swap forum? It's depressing checking the forums and not seeing any posts for days at a time. TDG is dead, and I guess its time for me to move on like most of the others that used to be here did.
 
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I've been a member here since before the big hack which erased tons of good info and all my posts, which caused me to have to rejoin the forum, alot of members were lost then and never rejoined. I've seen the ebb and tide of good times and bad, but have stuck it out because there are still alot of great contributing members and info to be had on here. I have held back from joining other forums for mainly I still like this place and being the die hard member that I am will probably be the last one standing. I've had some of the most hair pulling problem vehicles at my work that giving up on resolving them is not an option, especially when the vehicle cost upwards of 180k and you have a client that just wants it right. Although I do have resources not available to the public and do work with the field engineers on occasion, there are times when everyone is scratching there heads...but you carry on and eventually you find the results you need for a resolution of the issue. So what I'm trying to say is, yeah we all get frustrated, but don't give up, it's just part of who we are and how we grow. Still alot of good stuff on this forum, and I'm not going anywhere.

Sorry ArmyBass about this derailment on your thread, but like already mentioned, the more info on the history of the truck you can give us, the better equipped we are to aid in a possible solution.

Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It was the starter

Sorry I haven't gotten back on to update the status. Between work and changing out starters I have been busy. It turned out to be the starter. Now I have to codes on my OBD reader that I need to look into.

U0155 - lost communication with Instrument Panel

P0671 - #1 cylinder Glow Plug Circuit Open.

On the Instrument Panel nothing is working and I have checked all the fuses related to the Instrument panel, they are all good.

I need to check the Glow Plug problem.

Also I now that it takes time for the computer to relearn everything, but I have put probably 50 miles on it since I reconnected the batteries and I am getting hesitation when accelerating. It's a manual transmission and it usually happens after I shift gears, let off the clutch and begin accelerating.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry I haven't gotten back on to update the status. Between work and changing out starters I have been busy. It turned out to be the starter. Now I have to codes on my OBD reader that I need to look into.

U0155 - lost communication with Instrument Panel

P0671 - #1 cylinder Glow Plug Circuit Open.

On the Instrument Panel nothing is working and I have checked all the fuses related to the Instrument panel, they are all good.

I need to check the Glow Plug problem.

Also I now that it takes time for the computer to relearn everything, but I have put probably 50 miles on it since I reconnected the batteries and I am getting hesitation when accelerating. It's a manual transmission and it usually happens after I shift gears, let off the clutch and begin accelerating.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It was the starter, now i have OBD codes

Sorry I haven't gotten back on to update the status. Between work and changing out starters I have been busy. It turned out to be the starter. Now I have to codes on my OBD reader that I need to look into.

U0155 - lost communication with Instrument Panel

P0671 - #1 cylinder Glow Plug Circuit Open.

On the Instrument Panel nothing is working and I have checked all the fuses related to the Instrument panel, they are all good.

I need to check the Glow Plug problem.

Also I now that it takes time for the computer to relearn everything, but I have put probably 50 miles on it since I reconnected the batteries and I am getting hesitation when accelerating. It's a manual transmission and it usually happens after I shift gears, let off the clutch and begin accelerating.
 

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Try letting it sit and idle for a bit it likely needs to relearn the turbo. You should be able you hear the sound change in the tail pipe or if you have a scangauge can see the VGT Xgauge value change. Seems like it needs 10 or 15 minutes.
 

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