The Diesel Garage banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Nothing wrong with the upgrade, but my question is the speedometer. has or is anyone having a speed problem. When running 60 MPH I am actually going 51 MPH. The dealer has tried multiple changes to the module but no avail. They were able to re cal the gas gauge to meet my upgraded 50 gal Titan tank....the OEM 28 gal was useless. I also added a Firestone air bag upgrade to take the sag out of the *** end....more so when my car trailer was hooked up. I thought with a 250 there would NO sag at any point less than 1-ton weight......WRONG.
 

Attachments

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
I have noticed my speedo is consistently 2-3 mph slow the those work zone "your speed is" machines on the roadside. I just replaced my worn out tires, will check this next trip to see if this is still the same.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The dealer is trying but my main compliant is at 50,000 mi they truck will actually have 40,000... so that blows away my warranty before it's time.
 

·
& amp; amp; amp; amp;
Joined
·
372 Posts
Nothing wrong with the upgrade, but my question is the speedometer. has or is anyone having a speed problem. When running 60 MPH I am actually going 51 MPH. The dealer has tried multiple changes to the module but no avail. They were able to re cal the gas gauge to meet my upgraded 50 gal Titan tank....the OEM 28 gal was useless. I also added a Firestone air bag upgrade to take the sag out of the *** end....more so when my car trailer was hooked up. I thought with a 250 there would NO sag at any point less than 1-ton weight......WRONG.
Looks like you need a weight distribution hitch and then it should tow much better, the hitch is designed to take weight off the rear of the truck and apply it to the front. You can pick them up on craigs list for about $100

Trailer without airbags on truck, just an equalizer hitch
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
274 Posts
all the airbags in the world won't transfer weight to the front end. you stab the brakes in a corner all that untransferred weight heads for the front end, major steering geometry change just when it will screw you up the worst. Tuscany check your axle weights loaded and unloaded, i bet your steering is actually lighter loaded. This is not good for control. that said there is no guaranty that the odometer is out by the same amount as the speedo unless you have actually checked it. my preferred method is get out on the interstate and burn off about 20 miles, check the odo against the mileposts. even on an 11 model the hitch capacity without equalizer is much less than with. just from the amount of sag i would guess you are way over your non equalizer weight.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE on the speedometer issue. While going through some boxes in the closet I can across a box with no marking and in side was a CD/DVD that said Speedometer Calibration Software. So I checked it out and lo and behold it was the software for the speed compensator for the my truck. Took it to the dealer and I installed it on their laptop (since they had no clue how to do it) and it said that an aftermarket unit in behind the gauge cluster. So....finding it and hooking it up to their laptop, reading the module and reprogramming it.......we now have speed that is right on the money.

Now the issue of the Tuscany sitting over the winter and the new 50 gal fuel tank (Titan) with fuel in it.........and then finding out how bacteria grows in fuel that is sitting over a period of time. And then this screwing up the injectors, filters and so on. Well that's another story I am looking into. And Ford not having any additive that THEY recommend. But this is ALL diesel fuel in all vehicles, ground tanks and so on.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
274 Posts
the bacteria need moisture to thrive, if there is no water they grow very poorly. diesel is like brake fluid it will pick it up from the air. it will also "dissolve" quite a bit of water before it actually will separate out as straight water on the bottom. you can get moisture absorbers for your fuel tanks, kind of like those packets that come in electronic packages to keep them dry. that dissolved water is more than enough for bacteria, and the new fuel pumps are looking like they really don't like it. to the tune of $10-12,000. if its going to be parked for long periods either drain the tank bone dry or fill it right to the cap and add a bacteria inhibiting fuel additive
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top