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Discussion Starter #1
can anyone help me with a schematic of the pencil type injector, i have never tore one apart ! are there any screens or brass parts just below the line nut, tried some bio diesel for about a month and now it has lost major power in 9th & 10th,wont boost past 12 psi with my foot in it, found tons of crap in the filters, algae, plastic, water, checked all lines there clear used vacuum pump,no restricting lines, put new transfer pump 42 psi @ idle, i thinking its either the injection pump barrels or the injectors 3406c 4ck and yes its a p.o.s. peec not throwing a bunch of codes except yesterday i got a 35 code (over rev) from trying to make it go with my foot in the radiator, transducer less than 100,000 miles ecm same 100.000, if i cant get it going my self iam un peecing it any one have the rear parts of the pump too do it and the timing fly weights, ive had it with this peec3 electronics, i think they should have castrated the engineer that came up with this thing thanks all anthony a.k.a. fest
 

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Same thing happened to a my buddy summer before last. He kept changing filters and running fuel system cleaner and it finally cleared up. Sounds like you have a much worse case than he did. I looked in my engine manual and it does not show the internals of the nozzle. Sorry.
 

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can anyone help me with a schematic of the pencil type injector, i have never tore one apart ! are there any screens or brass parts just below the line nut, tried some bio diesel for about a month and now it has lost major power in 9th & 10th,wont boost past 12 psi with my foot in it, found tons of crap in the filters, algae, plastic, water, checked all lines there clear used vacuum pump,no restricting lines, put new transfer pump 42 psi @ idle, i thinking its either the injection pump barrels or the injectors 3406c 4ck and yes its a p.o.s. peec not throwing a bunch of codes except yesterday i got a 35 code (over rev) from trying to make it go with my foot in the radiator, transducer less than 100,000 miles ecm same 100.000, if i cant get it going my self iam un peecing it any one have the rear parts of the pump too do it and the timing fly weights, ive had it with this peec3 electronics, i think they should have castrated the engineer that came up with this thing thanks all anthony a.k.a. fest
Tony can decipher what's wrong...I can only say UNPEEC it!!

The governor housings are getting hard to find. I may have some left...not sure. I'll check.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
thanks sledman, is there a chance the timing slipped ? i can pin check it, iam in the dark on cat's had cummins must of my years,it doe's not smoke in the morn. or under load the front timing device with flyweights is were iam lost , i understand the concept ,but the bell crank and spool on the peec must be different than mechanical, also the gov. part iv'e never been in one. iam not a bad wrench its just cat's are new too me beside the 3304t in my little 955 toy, how do i get too the mod section , i know ynot has gone throught this umpteen times, don't want too drag him in to this, next step is pin time check
 

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thanks sledman, is there a chance the timing slipped ? i can pin check it, iam in the dark on cat's had cummins must of my years,it doe's not smoke in the morn. or under load the front timing device with flyweights is were iam lost , i understand the concept ,but the bell crank and spool on the peec must be different than mechanical, also the gov. part iv'e never been in one. iam not a bad wrench its just cat's are new too me beside the 3304t in my little 955 toy, how do i get too the mod section , i know ynot has gone throught this umpteen times, don't want too drag him in to this, next step is pin time check
If the timing was off enough to cause low power, it would be retarded. When revving up, it would smoke, skip, and pop. Or advanced, it would have bad fuel knock or clatter. Out of time would not limit high RPM or boost. I'd say you have a common Peec problem...maybe transducer...rack sensor....

The Peec advance has no weights...only a spool, timing sensor, and BTM (brushless torque motor). I have done many Peec conversions, but Tony should be along...he can explain better.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i understand the timing buy the btm via ecm and position sensor, ,that round stub on the end of the spool doe's it have too go or can it stay with the new timing flyweights, also i remember something about a non magnetic rack is it needed, also thanks for any help your giving me times are hard
 

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i understand the timing buy the btm via ecm and position sensor, ,that round stub on the end of the spool doe's it have too go or can it stay with the new timing flyweights, also i remember something about a non magnetic rack is it needed, also thanks for any help your giving me times are hard
You can use the same pump and advance. I leave the pump on the engine, and just change the rack. I remove the advance, and use mechanical parts and toss the PEEC parts.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
sledman i tried some power service cleaner it seem to work a bit, i have power till 10th then i just tickle the pedal and it surges a bit and shutters, i normally drive like there is an egg between my foot and the pedal, normally 1/4 throttle is all i need ,like its missing on 2 cylinders till it get's past 1350 revs, also the load gov. dosent seem too come in like it use too,say iam going 55 and hit a slight grade but hold the pedal where it is and the boost and power used too just come in , not any more just very slight
 

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sledman i tried some power service cleaner it seem to work a bit, i have power till 10th then i just tickle the pedal and it surges a bit and shutters, i normally drive like there is an egg between my foot and the pedal, normally 1/4 throttle is all i need ,like its missing on 2 cylinders till it get's past 1350 revs, also the load gov. dosent seem too come in like it use too,say iam going 55 and hit a slight grade but hold the pedal where it is and the boost and power used too just come in , not any more just very slight
Without Cat ET, it's hard to diagnose the symptoms. Like I said, it could be BTM, Transducer, Rack Sensor, TPS...etc. After owning two of those dreaded set-ups, I converted mine, and anyone elses that came in my shop with a problem. Hell, even my local Cat dealer was sending customers down to me, to have them converted. They knew what the solution was, but Cat wouldn't let them do it. The best part of all, is after converting, I or they NEVER, EVER had another single problem.

Maybe Tony will be along in a while...
 

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can anyone help me with a schematic of the pencil type injector, i have never tore one apart ! are there any screens or brass parts just below the line nut, tried some bio diesel for about a month and now it has lost major power in 9th & 10th,wont boost past 12 psi with my foot in it, found tons of crap in the filters, algae, plastic, water, checked all lines there clear used vacuum pump,no restricting lines, put new transfer pump 42 psi @ idle, i thinking its either the injection pump barrels or the injectors 3406c 4ck and yes its a p.o.s. peec not throwing a bunch of codes except yesterday i got a 35 code (over rev) from trying to make it go with my foot in the radiator, transducer less than 100,000 miles ecm same 100.000, if i cant get it going my self iam un peecing it any one have the rear parts of the pump too do it and the timing fly weights, ive had it with this peec3 electronics, i think they should have castrated the engineer that came up with this thing thanks all anthony a.k.a. fest
I'm gonna lean towards the infamous epoxy flow on the rack magnet which causes it to lose rack position but it doesn't know it. An ECAP will show it as rack position will flutter, but it won't always throw a code, as it doesn't know it's broke. Even checking timing you need an ECAP (PEEC ECM reader) as changin it will throw off timing calibration, both position and sweep arm.

Sssooo, I'd run about a gallon of Amoco Ultimate for every 200 gallons thru it mixed with Howes or whatever for lubricity and see if it's just gummed up. If that doesn't do it, it's cheaper any way you look at it to just "un-PEEC it" as stated. Even fixing everything yourself, then having someone come calibrate everything to run you're gonna have over half the money in it to convert it to mechanical anyway. Junk the sensors; throw weights and housings at it; max it out and run it :thumbsup
 
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