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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #1
This is really getting to be a hassle, I'll go over this again some of you may already know my problem so the truck I have a little power off the line but once you hit 20 or 30 you could fly in it and it was good, that is until the fuel pump went out. I did the tank mods& after blowing fuses I found a wire that was grounding out.
Fixed that and it still had low power but it also had white smoke coming from the exhaust I noticed this right before the pump went out. I changed the CPS 3 times. I took it to a shop as it would start an idle without a issue. They tell me # 1,3&7 failed on the buzz test &failed the continuity test as well as a bad glow plug on each side.They said the uvch on pass side was almost unplugged & when they went to plug it back in it broke a part .So I figured before I'd buy injectors I'd throw on the new uvch on both sides & new glow plugs . Since doing so it will not start @ all it will try to start but don't. You get like a fuel knock . I Can crank&crank it almost started but got to shaking real bad.Also it passes the buzz test.
Why would it not start now @ all since the new uvch&why would it pass the buzz test now but failed before? No codes but ebps.Good oil pressure, I have a buddy comjng by tomorrow to do a pin out test? Check the [email protected] idm&ohm out the injectors.I have to get it going snow is already here.So how do I tell if the uvch is bad..the new ones also what all do I look for while were in there.I have the link to this test...
http://www.gbreman.com/techbulletin_103.html
So any suggestions? There was no blow by before btw, any advice will be greatly appreciated
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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1,296 Posts
Ok, so based on the info you have provided, I would check the wiring on the new UVCH to make sure it pins out correctly.

You don't have any info in your signature that I can see, so I'm not sure the year truck you're working on.

If you have the late single connector UVCH you may have the injectors connected in the wrong firing order.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1416292536.522764.jpg

It sounds harder to do than you think. If they are out of order then it would inject fuel at the wrong time and crank hard and make odd noises.

There are the wiring schematics with color codes. I pulled them from a quick Google search.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1416292682.341641.jpg
ImageUploadedByAG Free1416292698.101619.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1416292712.599434.jpg

Out of order they would still pass the buzz test, but the truck would not start.

Good luck, hope this helps.


Sent by my right thumb!
 

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Junior Member
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Its a 99.5, Im going to attempt a pinout test today. I'm just not sure if I should do it off of the valve cover front or the idm
 

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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
. This is what Im trying to figure out, I never do electrical stuff btw, well Im about to run & pick up a mutlimeter to test this &then idm. I HAVE NO IDEA what Im doing or wear to stick thebhot/red tester in & the black/ ground . Please help an idiot out
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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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1,296 Posts
Take your time, don't poke holes in wire insulation. To test everything properly, you need to pull the valve covers and check the injector numbers match up to the main plug you have pictured. If you're still uncomfortable, pay a professional.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Non of these diesel mechanics showed up so I just looked over a few things. Didn't figure much, out but the waste solenoid kept clicking, idk if it's because the battery cables wernt tightend all the way down.But also when I took a test light to the idm harness I couldn't get it to light up idk if you can check it for sure or not with a test light but I would imagine so, so what do you guys think?
 

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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #7
the idm probably isnt rbecause I just found the last idiot that looked at it took off with IDM diode diode,I went to start it and it wouldn't even turn over. When looking in the fuse box I noticed that It was gone.but upon further inspection of the passenger side harness I found this. This wire was hidden by the others and ground it out to the valve cover it almost looks like is somebody splice the wire before idk. Do you think this could be my problem?
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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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1,296 Posts
Ok, so that wire you're looking at is part of the shielding to isolate the RF noise from the harness. Look at the wiring diagrams I posted. The Orange (OG) is the power to all 4 injectors. The two wires directly to each side of it are the wires to the IDM that the IDM grounds to complete the circuit and fire the injector. The outer two on each end of the plug are the glow plugs.

You need to pull the valve covers and make sure the injectors are wired correctly and that they were clean connections, no oil in the connectors.




Sent by my right thumb!
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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1,296 Posts
Stop.

Take a deep breath.

Listen (read) carefully.

You're driving yourself nuts chasing things you've read on forums.

Have you pulled the valve covers and used the ohms function to check that the wiring from the engine harness connector is pinning out to the correct injectors?

Your first post indicated the truck ran prior to UVCH replacement and now passes the buzz test but will not start. I've mentioned this before. If the harness is installed to the wrong injectors, it won't start.


Sent by my right thumb!
 

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Junior Member
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The more I think about it when I had it running it was alot warmer.I only have a 650&550 cca battery in there. Could that be my problem?
 
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