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Tribal
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I believe by removing the connection to the sending unit for head removal I have broken the brittle line, it was working well prior. Can I replace just the wiring, as in is it a drop in line or a soldered connection.
If I need a replacement to the gauge, anyone got a Part# 1928 Peterbilt 92U, sending unit front passenger side. What's gets me is I sold an extra I had on eBay, now I need one..Just not sure which one..my gauge has numbers not colors.. :damnit
 

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The other guy
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I believe by removing the connection to the sending unit for head removal I have broken the brittle line, it was working well prior. Can I replace just the wiring, as in is it a drop in line or a soldered connection.
If I need a replacement to the gauge, anyone got a Part# 1928 Peterbilt 92U, sending unit front passenger side. What's gets me is I sold an extra I had on eBay, now I need one..Just not sure which one..my gauge has numbers not colors.. :damnit
Temp gauges are as easy as fan hub senders. Take the wire off and touch it to the head (or alligator clip it). It should peg the gauge (variable resistance ground unit). If it does it's the sender. If it doesn't, take your test light apart; affix a wire or alligator clip to the other end of the probe wire little brass peg; ground that to alternator ground; poke the wire with the sharp probe going up stream til it pegs the gauge. At that point, cut the wire and splice in a new one with a blue 1/8" eyelet, and connect to sender. Done ;)
 

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Tribal
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167 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Temp gauges are as easy as fan hub senders. Take the wire off and touch it to the head (or alligator clip it). It should peg the gauge (variable resistance ground unit). If it does it's the sender. If it doesn't, take your test light apart; affix a wire or alligator clip to the other end of the probe wire little brass peg; ground that to alternator ground; poke the wire with the sharp probe going up stream til it pegs the gauge. At that point, cut the wire and splice in a new one with a blue 1/8" eyelet, and connect to sender. Done ;)
You are the Man YNOT, I know the sending unit is good and the Stewart Warner gauge, I just broke the brittle wired which will be replaced thanks to you...
:happydance
 

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Tribal
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167 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for that info, I assume I can replace it with a less expensive unit/gauge/wire style? This is one gauge I won't run without, since completing the Head gasket, it has #1 priority as much as Oil Pressure & Exhaust Temp.. :hump
 

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The other guy
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Didn't know it was capulary. It doesn't have a sender. Just the gas bubble head. As much as it sux, I'd replace it with the same thing. It is by far the most accurate and the doesn't wear out unless the tube breaks. Sorry bout the mis-info. :(
 

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Tribal
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167 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)

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Senior Member
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Yes you can go to an electric guage , stewart warner hd series should look right at home in the dash (if the guage has a black trim bezel) the other sender could be for the fan clutch solinoid
 
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The other guy
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Yes you can go to an electric guage , stewart warner hd series should look right at home in the dash (if the guage has a black trim bezel) the other sender could be for the fan clutch solinoid
Yep, Early B's in Paccars had the Horton sender in the upper hose with a separate ground. Good call, again!! :thumbsup
 

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Tribal
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Discussion Starter #11

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As far as the electric gauge goes, I once fought an overheating problem for a long time. I finally found the problem to be a little tiny ground wire after replacing the thermostat a couple times and cleaning the radiator and checking for air in the system. Id replace it with the same kind as youve got there.
 

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The other guy
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Tribal
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Discussion Starter #14
CAT A Model coolant temp

I ordered it just to have. I believe my current Temp Gauge is using the sending unit in the large Coolant tube that goes to the top of water pump, If I remember correctly Radiators push bottom out - is that correct? or only in 4-wheelers (cars)..which in turn this would be supplying return coolant temp..
 

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The coolant flows from the engine to the top of the rad , the temp sendor should be in the head prefferably at the front AT least it is on the later ones ,I havent seen a 92U for years, but the best place is high,and towards the front in engine block coolant
 
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Junior Member
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This looks to be the correct one, I prefer temperature indicators however the bands will work for the while.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Caterpillar-Style-1W0702-2S9844-4K8516-Water-Temp-Guage-/230379577541?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item35a3b160c5

Thanks to all who have responded[/QUOTE I don't know if this helps but, you should be able to order that mechanical gauge assembly w/ various length leads. So you don't have too little or too much length. (since you can't cut it. Good luck!
 

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Tribal
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Discussion Starter #17
Better than nothing but almost worthless without numbers to look at. That's the same gauge as yours but a bulldozer gauge, hence just a red- green warning gauge.
Well, it's installed, wrong dimensions too...smaller than my gauge and YNOT is correct, useless w/o numbers...

:thumbdown
 

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The other guy
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The coolant flows from the engine to the top of the rad , the temp sendor should be in the head prefferably at the front AT least it is on the later ones ,I havent seen a 92U for years, but the best place is high,and towards the front in engine block coolant
Differential vacuum. The bottom is big suction and the top is smaller obstructed suction. Hence the top is pressure to the rad as negative pressure is Vacuum. That's why the rad only use an 8 to 16psi cap. It'd be 30+ with water pump pressure... There is no true vacuum, only negative pressure to 0 inch/HG's... The only true pressure is anywhere off the side of the impellor. Everything to the rear of the impellor is vacuum of varying degrees ;)
 

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Differential vacuum. The bottom is big suction and the top is smaller obstructed suction. Hence the top is pressure to the rad as negative pressure is Vacuum. That's why the rad only use an 8 to 16psi cap. It'd be 30+ with water pump pressure... There is no true vacuum, only negative pressure to 0 inch/HG's... The only true pressure is anywhere off the side of the impellor. Everything to the rear of the impellor is vacuum of varying degrees ;)
Interesting take on cooling system flow Tony, also helps to explain why just a bit low on coolant can create flow problems (discharge in air pocket = frothing/foaming and partial cavitation) Understanding the theorey goes a long way in troubleshooting and repair :rock
 
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