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Discussion Starter #1
I was out of town this weekend and my truck has been sitting at a friends house since Friday morning. Jumped in it today, started right up. Turned out of the driveway and truck accelerated slowly and I had to let up on the gas pedal to get it to shift. I didn't go over 20mph before having to stop at a stop sign. I pulled away from there and the truck started chugging and didn't want to shift and didn't want to accelerate at all. Blowing a ton of what looked to be white smoke (it was dark out so hard to tell exactly what color it was). Service engine soon light came on. I got it to a parking lot and that's where it's sitting. It runs fine when sitting at idle but the second I touch the gas pedal it just chugs. Any ideas? I don't have a code reader and oreillys was closed so I couldn't read the code tonight.

It is an 07 f350 6.0 lariat outlaw. I had 4 injectors replaced a few months ago. The truck wouldn't keep running when those injectors went out so I'm kind of thinking this isn't an injector issue but I'm definitely not ruling that out.

Any help from you experts would be greatly appreciated!
 

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The first thing to do is scan the truck and pull codes. Work from te codes to find the issue.

If the EGR system is intact, I'd suspect the EGR valve to be stuck open, preventing the engine from making boost because the exhaust is just getting fed back into the intake. They run like dogs when the valve is stuck open, no power, won't shift.

The valve is on the intake manifold adjacent to the oil filter, one electrical plug with three or four wires, and three 8mm head bolts holding it down. If it's got a lot of carbon buildup, it takes some prying to get it out, be gentle though an you can reuse the gasket and o-rings. Carefully remove the o-rings once you get it out, clean it up really good, inspect it to make sure both seats are seating fully, reinstall the o-rings and let them rest (shrink back to size after stretching them to get them back on) and then use a light swipe of oil to let them easily slide back in, bolt the valve down and it should drive fine.

Start with the codes though. If you can't pull codes, then I'd suggest checking the EGR valve, when mine stuck open, it was running fine, I parked the truck for a couple hours, went to drive it and almost got T-boned turning onto the highway, when I had enough time to make that left three times over if the truck had been running normally.

If you want to be proactive, get an EGR valve gasket and o-rings before you pull it apart, then you don't had to reuse anything.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I cleaned the EGR valve a few months ago when my injectors went out, thinking that it was getting stuck open like you said. I would assume it would still be fine but it is definitely something I should check. I will hopefully get out to the truck here soon and chug it to oreillys to read the code. I will post codes once I get them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, I got to the truck, it started up and ran fine. Drove out of the parking lot and towards oreillys. I stomped on it from a stop and blew a big cloud of smoke that was mostly dark. Parked it at Oreillys and read the code. I got the underboost code so I checked the wires to the turbo and they looked fine so I cleared the code. Started the truck back up and revved it up a few times and the turbo was kicking in just fine. Drove it home (about 17 miles) and it ran fine and didn't blow any smoke, even when I stomped on it.

What do you think could have caused the underboost? A failing turbo? And why would it all the sudden work fine again?

I got this underboost code one time before. It was about 100 miles after the Ford dealer replaced 4 of my injectors. I'm pretty positive they had to remove the turbo to replace the injectors so could they have possibly installed something wrong? Or maybe the turbo is just dirty?

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks
 

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If you've had to clean the EGR and it was dirty, you may have a carbon and/or corrosion issue in the VGT section of the turbo. If you're up for it, remove and inspect/clean the turbo. And while you're in there check the unison ring for wear. Be careful to note how it comes apart so that it goes back together correctly. With the VGT stuck wide open, the truck will struggle to get to 2000rpm or so, then boost will shoot up and the truck will suddenly have power. When they stick, you basically have to floor the pedal, they smoke quite a bit, then the truck will clear up and haul cheeks.
 
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Sounds like turbo vanes stuck after it was parked all weekend, especially since your getting a PO299 fault code.

Also, if you do pull the egr valve out for cleaning, look down inside the egr valve hole of the intake manifold and check if it is wet in there, if it is, then egr cooler has failed.

I agree with everything Idaho has recommended so far.

Harry
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Well it happened again today. First it was boosting super high, then it was all over the place, then no boost at all. I got out, made sure the electrical connection was good and got back in the truck and shut it off. Started it back up and pulled back out onto the road and the boost was all over the place again but it wasn't blowing as much smoke and I was able to get up to speed. Now it's parked for about the next hour so we will see what happens when I start it up again.

Looks like I'm gonna have to pull the egr valve and pull the turbo like you guys recommended. Hopefully the turbo is just sticking.

Could it possibly be the electrical connection to the turbo since my boost was all over the place?

Thanks again guys, I appreciate the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any tips for taking the turbo out on an 07? I see there's videos on YouTube but just wondering if you guys have any other tips. Looks like I need to get a turbo rebuild kit for all the O rings and gaskets and some nickel anti seize. Anything else?
 

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Not sure the differences of an 03/04 and an 07 but other than being heavy it's not too bad of a job.

It's possible the unison ring is bad so you could be down waiting for one. I got the kit International offers for cleaning it and used my own pure nickel special anti-seize. Upgraded the drain tube at the same time. Yours may have the newer version being an 07.

Sorry can't find the kit part number right now from IH.
 

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It's not a bad job, takes about an hour and a half to remove, but can take two to three I it's stubborn and leaks on reassembly. Use penetrating lube on the pedestal bolts and clamps to make things easier, spray it down and let it soak. You'll need a 10mm short socket and extensions, wobble extensions are helpful for the rear pedestal bold, there are three. Then you'll need a very deep 11mm socket for the y-pipe and down pipe V-band clamps. If the turbo has never been off, the y-pipe v-band clamp will be pointing at the firewall, it's ok to reinstall pointing forward.

Remove the air intake
Remove the crankcase vent adapter
Remove the turbo inlet pipe
Remove the hot side intercooler pipe
Remove the bolt holding the oil feed line into the oil cooler housing
Carefully unplug the VGT solenoid connector
Remove the v-band clamp and disconnect the down pipe, don't lose the nut for the clamp
Remove the nut from the y-pipe v-band clamp, loosen the clamp, they get really stuck, be patient and try not to damae the clamp, with the clamp loose, slip it up onto the y-pipe
Remove the three turbo pedestal bolts, then rock the turbo slightly to free it before removing it from the engine.

Perform your turbo service. Be sure to take pictures of the VGT as you disassemble. Set the turbo inlet side down so the shaft is verticle before removing the exhaust housing. Take pictures of the VGT, noting the position of the vanes and the actuator pin for the unison ring. These things are critical to successful reassembly, if you clock te pin wrong, the VGT will not function correctly and you'll have no boost off idle.

The hardest part of reassembly is connecting te turbo inlet to the y-pipe. Do this first, put the turbo in, get help if needed, seat the y-pipe and turbine inlet so that try are flush, slip the v-band clamp over the connection and tighten it down so the two can not misalign but not fully tightened. Bolt the turbo to the pedestal, then tighten te turbin inlet v-band the rest of the way. Everything else goes in reverse order. Be sure to clean the intercooler pipe hoses and connections with some carb or brake cleaner so they are free of oil before installing the tube. Start it and check for leaks at the turbine inlet immediately, if there is a leak, you'll have to loosen everything up, realign it and try again.
 
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I put new intercooler boots on. I could never get the old one to stick but the older turbo has a shorter flange.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
How do I get the intake elbow off? I loosened the clamp that connects it to the turbo but there's a tube that goes into the elbow from underneath. I'm not sure how that disconnects from the elbow or if it disconnects from right by the ficm. I will try to post a picture. I know it's different with the earlier year 6.0's and I can't seem to find a video on this one.
 

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That is the crank case vent tube. The little plastic elbow snaps into the oil separator on the valve over. Either pop it out if the oil separator or out of the intake adapter, either end. If you really can't get it apart, leave it all connected an just remove the bracket and swing the intake adapter and hose out of the way.

Oh, and removing the FICM will give you more access to the y-pipe.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Ok just making sure I could pop it out of there. I wasn't sure if it was attached inside somehow. I'll just yank on it till it pops out.

Thanks for the help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok I got the turbo apart finally. I'll upload a picture. The unison ring doesn't wanna move from this position. How do I fix this? I can pull the unison ring off and move the little pin but when it goes this far over, I can't move it with the unison ring.
 

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Ok I got the turbo apart finally. I'll upload a picture. The unison ring doesn't wanna move from this position. How do I fix this? I can pull the unison ring off and move the little pin but when it goes this far over, I can't move it with the unison ring.
It needs a thorough cleaning.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tTqZPbBet0I

Nice computer voice

I'd recommend buying this kit from an international truck parts counter and pick up some Bostik pure nickel special anti seize. Nickel is your friend cheaper versions have aluminum, copper and other metals/ elements.

International part # is 1870713C91

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Genuine-Ford-6-0L-Powerstroke-Diesel-Turbo-Reconditioning-Cleaning-Kit-/331246053245?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1fcda77d


Do a search on Vgt turbo cleaning. Lots of info out there.

Unison ring should move freely.
 
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