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Discussion Starter #1
After seeing some oil dripping from my IC boots, I decided it was time to do something about it before one of my boots blow off.

I apologize. This is not a complete write-up as there are plenty of other write-ups for this mod. I just wanted to show you folks another way of doing it.

My main goal was to modify it without making it permanent. No parts were destroyed and can easily be put back to stock. So, here is what I did:

I first built a canister that will collect the oil and vent the pressure. I then decided on a location (directly above the driver's side mudflap inside the fender).

I took the intake boots off and pulled out the CCV elbow from the valve cover filter. I left the elbow attached to the metal boot. I only cut two bands. I cut the band for the elbow that goes directly into the intake and the one that holds the fexible rubber onto the elbow that plugs into the valve cover filter. I pulled out the elbow that goes into the intake tube, trimmed the protrusion, and reinserted. I used a 3/4" PVC cap and pushed it into the flexible hose that is still attached to the intake tube, blocking any possible flow. I did not glue it as the cap has a ridge on it that would prevent it from being sucked into the intake.

I bought a bunch of 1" heater hose but found that 3/4" heater hose would fit inside the 1" and snake through the engine bay much easier. I slipped the 1" over the elbow and then slipped the 3/4" inside the 1". I secured it all with hose clamps. It attaches to my canister via the same meathod as stated.


This is a picture of the elbow comming out of the valve cover vent. The orange hose is the 1" and the black is the 3/4". You can also see the white PVC cap stuck in the fexible hose that leads to the intake.


This is just another view to get perspective.

I made my canister from 3" ABS pipe. I used a screw cap on top and a permanent cap on the bottom. I used a brass ball valve for the bottom drain which was rather easy to install. I just drilled a hole and allowed the valve to self tap into the plastic. I used another brass barb adaptor to attach the filter to. It is 3/8 BRB X 1/4 MPT. I used 3/4" PVC that was fit into the canister and glued.


This is the canister fastened and connected.


This is just another view to see how long the canister is. Its only about 8" long. Not too big. It will get the job done.

I may eventually put the filter on the inside, creating a closed unit with a return line back to the intake to take advantage that the vacuume has on the crank case.
 

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Nice, i dropped this in the tech article section with a 2day redirect :happymugs
 

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Hey, really good idea. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the comments folks.

I think it would be better if I moved the filter on the inside as it will collect droplets and drip. It has not yet, but its something that might happen over time. It would be easy to relocate it inside. I think I might tap it into the top of the lid so the filter hangs vertically, allowing any oil to drip off of the filter into the bottom... not sure... I will see how this one goes for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just a quick followup for this.

I removed the external filter and used steel wool and poly fill inside the caniseter. I then added an additional tube that vents to atmo for testing. So far it has been removing the droplets as far as I can tell. I will be routing the tube back to the intake at a later date when I have more time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did the filter plug up with oil? I have seen that a few times, rendering the filter pretty much useless.
I assume you are talking about the external filter. No, it was never left on there long enough to plug up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No sign of degradation. I have had many trips with thousands of miles in a short amount of time helping my sister and her family move. And all this towing a heavy utility dump trailer. No issues at all to report.
 

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