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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Fellas, need somemore help, my clutch is acting up,sometimes when I'm starting off,I push in clutch and try to put it in gear but no go,it just grinds like I didn't have clutch in,if I shut engine off and then put it in gear it starts up ok but jumps and then clutch releaces,then it will be ok for awhile but not for long,sometimes while holding clutch in at a stand still,it will start makeing grinding noise then it starts to go in and out of gear while clutch is still depressed,and other times it acts perfectly normal,but is getting worse as time goes on,any ideas,anyone???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks

Thanks Cumminspride,Thats what it sounds like to me to ,pressure plate comming apart,just wanted to here it from someone else,going to pull trans today,will let you know what I find,wbski
 

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Guess what Comminspride it was the pilot bearing,the thin tin shield that keeps dirt out of the bearings some how came off then tore up and the pieces were floating around in the clutch,of course they made there way into places they shouldn't be and wouldn't let the clutch release,only me rite? Put bushing in this time,thanks again,wbski
 

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O ne of the things to check with a clutch malfunction is if the bearing retainer bore on the bell housing is concentric with the crankshaft. A dial indicator with a magnetic mount on the flywheel set to indicate the bore and read it at 4 positions to guess at the worst and then read the worst. Should be .003 or less.

Out of tolerance will cause the main drive bearing or the pilot bearing to break.

keydl
 

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Discussion Starter #7
next time

Thanks Kydel,have to hope now that its ok,already got it back together,but now that you mention it as I started taking it apart I noticed the bell housing bolts were loose,that is probably what caused the problem in the first place,thanks guys,wbski
 

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Check the bell housing bolts 2-3 times if you did not wash it clean.
Dirt there will break and fall out - then the bolts get loose.

That could have caused the problem. I did a 3500 Chevy last year that had a 1/4 in gap with a couple of missing bolts - wiped out the clutch, pilot bearing and throwout bearing. the main drive bearing was damaged also. Moderate frett wear on the dowel pin holes. Fellow bought it at auction and I have no idea how he shifted it coming out of the auction but 90 miles later the clutch did not work. The wear looked like a lot longer.

Transmission in the truck a test for main drive bearing is to put it in direct at about 100 rpm over idle and add a little throttle it will growl as it picks up rpm and quit growling around 15-1800 rpm. If it growls put it on the list for this year and change the trans oil. Many can be changed by pulling the bearing retainer and pulling the bearing off the main drive shaft.

keydl
 

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The Kevlar bushing that you installed is only good for 200K regardless of what the clutch/transmission shops say. Tearing it apart and replacing it is worth not wearing a input shaft!

Tony
 

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hoursehauling
It is good for a couple of hundred hours of holding the clutch, if you float the gears it can run a million :)

wbski
if it is wrong the problem will come back - maybe 40k. Catch it at the first stroke and the broken part is the pilot bearing, a couple of k miles later and the parts bill is a lot higher. Loose bell housing bolts are another sign that things are not concentric, catch 1 loose the second time and fix it right or the parts bill is a lot higher and the down time is random. Murphy's law it will be the most expensive time possible

When you do dry land wheat you are betting the years income or 10 days of harvest.

keydl
 
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