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1994 GMC Yukon rear disc swap



Here is all the components needed for the rear disc swap. Brackets purchased online. 1987 S-10 front brake calipers, Raybestos QS brakepads, 1988 Chevy K1500 rotors, Chevette brake hoses, brake fluid, caliper bolts, axle seals, 80W-90 gear lube, and friction modifier for the limited slip.



Here is a closeup of the bracket. Pretty straightforward. 3/8" thick steel with a zinc plating on it, and some bosses welded on for a little more meat for the calipers to mount to.



Before: Standard (or should I say substandard) C/K rear drums.



You also gotta have good help on a project like this. Thanks go out to my little brother Danny.



After the axles are pulled, and all the drum related stuff is removed, you can bolt on the brackets. I used red Loctite to make sure these buggers don't come loose.



Here are a couple of after pictures. It's pretty straightforward as far as bolting up calipers, installing hoses, and bleeding the brakes.



The stock disc/drum proportioning is pretty good for disc/disc on a Suburban/Yukon/Tahoe/Blazer application. Plus, the antilocks still work perfectly. The biggest advantage is that the 'ol Yook now stops on a dime, even with the 35's on.
 

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4cstr said:
1994 GMC Yukon rear disc swap



Here is all the components needed for the rear disc swap. Brackets purchased online. 1987 S-10 front brake calipers, Raybestos QS brakepads, 1988 Chevy K1500 rotors, Chevette brake hoses, brake fluid, caliper bolts, axle seals, 80W-90 gear lube, and friction modifier for the limited slip.



Here is a closeup of the bracket. Pretty straightforward. 3/8" thick steel with a zinc plating on it, and some bosses welded on for a little more meat for the calipers to mount to.



Before: Standard (or should I say substandard) C/K rear drums.



You also gotta have good help on a project like this. Thanks go out to my little brother Danny.



After the axles are pulled, and all the drum related stuff is removed, you can bolt on the brackets. I used red Loctite to make sure these buggers don't come loose.



Here are a couple of after pictures. It's pretty straightforward as far as bolting up calipers, installing hoses, and bleeding the brakes.



The stock disc/drum proportioning is pretty good for disc/disc on a Suburban/Yukon/Tahoe/Blazer application. Plus, the antilocks still work perfectly. The biggest advantage is that the 'ol Yook now stops on a dime, even with the 35's on.
where do you get the brackets for the disc brake swap
 

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wher do you get the brackets for the disc brake swap? The problem I have is my brakes dont work worth a darn the truck will not stop
 
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