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4cstr
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1994 GMC Yukon rear disc swap
Here is all the components needed for the rear disc swap. Brackets purchased online. 1987 S-10 front brake calipers, Raybestos QS brakepads, 1988 Chevy K1500 rotors, Chevette brake hoses, brake fluid, caliper bolts, axle seals, 80W-90 gear lube, and friction modifier for the limited slip.
Here is a closeup of the bracket. Pretty straightforward. 3/8" thick steel with a zinc plating on it, and some bosses welded on for a little more meat for the calipers to mount to.
Before: Standard (or should I say substandard) C/K rear drums.
You also gotta have good help on a project like this. Thanks go out to my little brother Danny.
After the axles are pulled, and all the drum related stuff is removed, you can bolt on the brackets. I used red Loctite to make sure these buggers don't come loose.
Here are a couple of after pictures. It's pretty straightforward as far as bolting up calipers, installing hoses, and bleeding the brakes.
The stock disc/drum proportioning is pretty good for disc/disc on a Suburban/Yukon/Tahoe/Blazer application. Plus, the antilocks still work perfectly. The biggest advantage is that the 'ol Yook now stops on a dime, even with the 35's on.

Here is all the components needed for the rear disc swap. Brackets purchased online. 1987 S-10 front brake calipers, Raybestos QS brakepads, 1988 Chevy K1500 rotors, Chevette brake hoses, brake fluid, caliper bolts, axle seals, 80W-90 gear lube, and friction modifier for the limited slip.

Here is a closeup of the bracket. Pretty straightforward. 3/8" thick steel with a zinc plating on it, and some bosses welded on for a little more meat for the calipers to mount to.

Before: Standard (or should I say substandard) C/K rear drums.

You also gotta have good help on a project like this. Thanks go out to my little brother Danny.

After the axles are pulled, and all the drum related stuff is removed, you can bolt on the brackets. I used red Loctite to make sure these buggers don't come loose.

Here are a couple of after pictures. It's pretty straightforward as far as bolting up calipers, installing hoses, and bleeding the brakes.

The stock disc/drum proportioning is pretty good for disc/disc on a Suburban/Yukon/Tahoe/Blazer application. Plus, the antilocks still work perfectly. The biggest advantage is that the 'ol Yook now stops on a dime, even with the 35's on.