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Discussion Starter #1
I went to the store and i had all 4 gears coming back from the store i lost 4th n 3rd 1st . . .

Any thoughts ?

Mike
 

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off to another home
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oh yeah, its an auto. maybe something electronic?

Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can manually shift it into all 4 gear selections but the transmission itself doesn't respond, it starts out in second gear and dose not shift, unless put into reverse.

I have 2nd gear and reverse neutral and park . . .

Mike
 

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********* and Mafia #90
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Automatic Transmission/Transaxle: Testing and Inspection
Diagnosis By Symptom
Converter Ballooning
Converter limit valve stuck open due to sediment or undersized bore
Delayed 1-2 Shift
1. Electrical malfunction or incorrect air gap of output speed sensor.
2. Input speed sensor electrical malfunction.
3. Pressure switch manifold electrical malfunction.
4. PROM calibration incorrect.
5. Digital ratio adapter malfunctioning.

Engine Stalls
1. Forward clutch housing bearing seized.
2. Fourth clutch plates, piston or spring assembly seized or jammed.
3. Torque converter clutch (TCC) stuck or dragging.

Engine Starts In Gear
1. Manual valve not engaged to detent lever.
2. Neutral safety switch malfunctioning.

Fluid Foaming
1. Fluid contaminated or overfilled.
2. Engine overheated.
3. Filter cracked or not seated.
4. Seal damaged or not seated.
5. Vehicle overloaded.

Forward Motion In Neutral
1. Manual valve stuck.
2. Forward clutch springs, piston, and plates jammed.
3. Forward clutch housing and hub hole(s) plugged.

Hard to Shift Out of or Remains In Park
1. Weak or broken pawl return spring.
2. Actuator rod assembly stretched.

Harsh Shifts
1. Line pressure to high or low.
2. Force motor malfunctioning.
3. Loose PCM connector.
4. Accumulator piston or spring incorrect or missing.
5. PROM calibration incorrect.

Improper TCC Application or Release
1. Speed sensor:
a. Poor connection.
b. Pinched wire.
c. Coil wire broken.
d. Incorrect air gap.
e. Inadequate signal.

2. Throttle position sensor and engine coolant temperature sensor
malfunctioning due to poor connection, pinched wire, no signal to PCM or incorrect
resistance.
3. PCM Failure.
4. Brake switch malfunctioning due to poor connection, no signal to PCM or pinched wire.

Inaccurate Shift Points
1. Electrical malfunction or damaged rotor teeth of output speed sensor.
2. Electrical malfunction of throttle position sensor or pressure switch manifold.
3. Incorrect or non original axle ratio or tire size.
4. Digital ratio adapter malfunctioning.

Insufficient Lube
1. Pressure regulator valve stuck in high demand position.
2. Cross dressing leakage in pump body.
3. Pan gasket leaking.
4. Leaking oil transfer hole cup plug.

Insufficient Lube at Low Line or Under Heavy Load
1. Converter limit valve dirty.
2. Retainer pin broken.

Loss of Drive
1. Faulty torque converter.
2. Seized or broken pump.
3. Case extension seal missing, damaged or displaced.
4. Orifice plate missing or leaking around edge.
5. Oil transfer hole cup plug leaking or missing.
6. Broken or excessively worn clutches. bearings, pinions, gears or shafts.

Loss of Power
1. Low transmission oil.
2. Vehicle not initially accelerating in first gear.
3. Torque converter clutch (TCC) stuck dirty, or dragging.
4. Stator shaft broken.
5. Turbine, main or output shaft bushing worn.

Low Line Pressure
1. Cross channel air leak body to cover or body to case gasket at pump.
2. Pressure regulator valve stuck or reverse boost valve at low torque signal due to dirty or undersized bore.
3. Excessive valve clearance in pump valve bores due to use.
4. Cross channel leaks or cross valve land leaks at valve body.
5. Gaskets/spacer plate damaged or missing.
6. Force motor stuck on, broken clip causing leakage, pinched wire to ground or screen missing.
7. PCM module failure.

No First Gear
1. Housing broken.
2. Rear band anchor pin broken or not positioned.
3. Detent lever misaligned.
4. Front band stuck on.
5. Low roller assembly not attached or race broken.
6. Case damaged near center support.
7. Snap rings not seated.

No Fourth Gear
1. 2-3 shift valve stuck.
2. Solenoid B malfunctioning.
3. Quad driver module failure.
4. Overrun clutch reaction plates splines.
5. Fourth clutch components:
a. Cup plug or bolt loose, broken or missing.
b. Piston or spring assembly jammed.
c. Seals nicked or cut.
d. Friction or reaction plates worn or burned.

No Gear Selections
1. Detent lever nut loose or missing.
2. Manual valve stuck.
3. Spacer plate holes blocked.
4. Blocked channels at valve body case.

No Park
1. Incomplete travel or misaligned detent lever.
2. Disconnected or broke actuator rod.
3. Detent spring mispositioned.
4. Parking pawl, bracket or shaft broken.
5. Front internal gear splines broken.
6. Manual shaft flats not parallel.

No Reverse
1. Transmission mountings or seals broken or leaking.
2. Rear band broken or worn.
3. Rear band apply pin or piston to short or binding in case.
4. Low fluid pressure.
5. Direct clutch components worn, jammed, cracked or leaking.

No Second Gear
1. Front band anchor pin broken or mispositioned.
2. Intermediate clutch feed cup plug missing or not seated.
3. Intermediate clutch components:
a. Broken backing plate.
b. Snap ring missing or not seated.
c. Friction plates or outer race splines worn.
d. Center support bolt broken, loose or oil hole blocked.
e. Seals, piston or springs worn cracked or jammed.
f. Intermediate sprag worn or broken.
4. Direct clutch housing broken.

No Third Gear
1. 2-3 shift valve stuck.
2. Solenoid B malfunctioning.
3. Quad driver module failure.
4. Intermediate clutch components:
a. Leaking ball check, seals or center support.
b. Reaction and friction plates splines worn.
c. Spring assembly jammed.
d. Housing cracked.

No Torque Converter Clutch (TCC)
1. TCC system:
a. Stuck off.
b. O-ring failure.
c. No voltage to solenoid.
d. Poor electrical connection.
2. Brake switch:
a. Contact corroded.
b. Poor electrical connection.
c. Pinched wire.
d. Misadjusted.
e. No supply voltage.
3. Solenoid malfunctioning.
4. Quad driver module failure.
5. TCC valve stuck due to debris or undersized bore.
6. Retainer pin broken.
7. Ballooning torque converter.
8. Turbine shaft plugged oil holes.
9. Turbine shaft seals or pump body bushings worn out.
10. Oil transfer hole cup plug leaking.
11. Regulated apply valve stuck.
12. TCC valve release exhaust orificed cup plug blocked.

No Torque In Reverse & Third
1. Forward clutch hub broken.
2. Forward clutch housing.

No Torque In Second Gear
Intermediate sprag broken or worn.

No Torque Multiplication
Stator shaft is broken or detached from pump cover.
Noise/Vibration
1. Torque converter either has loose lug bolts, is out of balance or has internal failure.
2. Transmission and engine assembly misaligned.
3. Case extension output shaft support bushing worn.
4. Turbine, main or output shafts have worn bushings.
5. Bearing is worn.

Oil Pressure High or Low
1. Pressure regulator valve or reverse boost valve stuck at high torque signal because of debris or undersized bore.
2. Retainer plug broken.
3. Orificed plug blocked.
4. Loose connector on PCM, force motor or pressure control solenoid.

Second Gear Starts
1. Intermediate clutch plates seized.
2. Direct clutch lube feed blocked.
3. Center support springs or pistons jammed.
4. Incorrect PCM signal to solenoid.
5. Quad driver failure.
6. 1-2 shift valve stuck.
7. Solenoid failure due to being stuck off, O-ring failure, no voltage to solenoid or poor connection.

Shift Lever Indicates Wrong Gear
1. Detent pin misaligned or broken.
2. Manual shaft flats not parallel.
3. Indicator linkage misadjusted.

Slipping TCC
1. TCC valve release or exhaust orificed cup plug blocked.
2. Turbine shaft seal cut.

Slow Application of TCC
1. Turbine shaft seals or pump body bushing worn or ineffective.
2. O-ring heat set.
3. Oil transfer hole cup plug leaking.
4. TCC solenoid malfunctioning.
5. Low fluid pressure.

TCC Stuck on
1. Malfunctioning TCC solenoid.
2. TCC apply valve stuck.
3. Quad driver module failure.

Third Gear Starts
1. Forward clutch driving hub hole plugged or plate seized.
2. Direct clutch plate seized, piston or spring assembly jammed or lube feed hole blocked.

Transmission Overheats
1. Blockage in apply or release in TCC circuit.
2. TCC valve spring broken.
3. Cross channel leakage in pump cover.
4. Blocked oil cooler or lines.
5. Retainer pin broken.
6. Turbine shaft O-ring, seals or stator shaft damaged or worn.
7. Leaking oil transfer hole cup plug.
8. Low transmission fluid level.
9. Restricted air flow to radiator.
10. Converter limit valve bypass orificed cup plug blocked and converter limit valve stuck closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Second Gear Starts
1. Intermediate clutch plates seized.
2. Direct clutch lube feed blocked.
3. Center support springs or pistons jammed.
4. Incorrect PCM signal to solenoid.
5. Quad driver failure.
6. 1-2 shift valve stuck.
7. Solenoid failure due to being stuck off, O-ring failure, no voltage to solenoid or poor connection.
This is the symptoms W T H how dose one check these 7 above things ? :( :mad:

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok as for #4 n #7 how do i go about testing them ?
I can see if there is power which will solve #7 if i knew where to test. . .

#4 incorrect signal, well with out knowing what the signal's should be how do i test that ? is it X-volt ? or is it X-ohms ? X-pulsation rate ?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
charged up my dead batteries it finally fired right up, i let it run for about a half hour then i drove it around for an hour and it shifted threw all 4 gears perfectly.

:haha W T H LOL

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Ok it strikes again, 2 & R is all i have again.

So i was on my way to parts house to get the Master cylinder for the jeep, and all was well truck ran great and drove fine.

apon leaving the parts house to get out into traffic i punched it down it down shifted rapt threw gears 1 . . 2 . . . 3 . i let off it hit 4th . . . then the SES light came on as it dropped back into 2nd gear where it stayed.

So i continued to drive to the bank and then drove back on home, just before getting home i pulled into a service station shut my truck off let it sit for about 1min the refired it up SES light went out and i had all 4 gears back again tho it delayed slightly before shifting.

Now what ? where do i go from here ? fluids good n full should i replace filter ?
I tried twice to have truck scanned dosn't seem that anybodys reader will link with my truck. . .

I'm guessing the fact that it only dose after i have on the throttle hard that it's prolly tossing the code
DTC 68 - Transmission Component Slipping
but with out being able to link with it i can't be certain but it sure make sense with how and when it goes into limp mode. . .

Trans filter ? as when i did the fluid change they sent me the wrong filter so i didn't change it could this be biting me in the tail feathers now 4-6K miles later ? . . . trans fluid was orange when i changed it its redish pink now . . .


Mike
 

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46 Posts
Pink means there is water in it. a friend had a simalar problem found out the wiring harness in the transmission needed to be updated.they updated mine to when i had mine rebuilt 2 years ago.Maybe you should check it out.You know come to think of it i had another 4l80e that had the same problem you are it was a vehicle speed sensor.
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The vehicle Speed sensor has been brought up a few time during this little ordeal, may just have to invest in one and see what happens . . . You got my mind wandering around the idea of it an engine default cause a transmission default, and with the turbo master being install the day or 2 before this problem showed up . . . got my wheels a turning. . .

EDIT:
as for the pinkishness, its not the milky pink like when you get water into the AFT of your Western plow pump, it's just such a bright red it has a slight pink look to it, Kinda like the translucent plastic ? i'm not sure how to explain it i tried taking photos of it its doesn't show up as your eyes see it. . .

Mike
 

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see if it smells burnt.I would bring it to a tranny shop and ask them they generaly tell you whats wrong for free.Or go by a dealership and ask them if they ever remember having tranny problems,when the engine set a code.T dealerships around here are pretty good about it and if there not busy they will look your problem up on there computers.I'd give it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My 3rd starter in 18months failed, So i'm not really able to go any place now :roflol:
I gotta love it, if it ain't broke you must not be driving it !

:haha wheres my Torch i'll fix it :haha . . . good thing theres a lean on it or thats just how i would fix it too. . .

Mike
 

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If you have gone through 3 starters in a year in a half.Something is wrong.I found from experiance a weak battery kills our starters.I would check your batteries,your probably going to find you have weak batteries.One winter It seamed liked I jumped a 100 people not realy but it was alot.I cooked my starter from a weak battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have 2 800cca batteries less then 2 months old, this truck has been breaking down every other month for 18month's i'm used to it being broken so used to it i don't hardly get riled up any more.

I shack my had and think or say : "Its just a 6.5 being a 6.5" then i tell the truck "keep it up that lean won't protect you forever, your going to make the nicest trailer in town"

Trust me if i didn't owe $5,500 against it i would have Cut in up long ago it would be rippons of steal on ship heading for china LOL :haha no doubt about it. . .

Mike
 

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Mikey,
the problem you describe sounds like a bad VSS. Scan it for codes again.My Tahoe did exactly what you described and that's all it was. It screws into the transfer case. Starters from most auto parts stores nowadays are junk period. Best to get it from a local reputable auto electric rebuilder. Also does your starter have the rear support bracket ?
 
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Discussion Starter #17
yup and it's really PITA to get at but yes i did reinstall it. . .

$220 for a rebuilt starter LOL :haha not on this truck.

Mike
 

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Have you checked/cleaned all your batt connections and grounds ? these trucks can do weird things when the juice don't flow well, I found out the hard way to replace both batts, not one at a time, one good and one weak can cause start/trans/ecm troubles.
 
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