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96 12v into a SD

5935 Views 16 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  jdinevens
so my journey begins, i'm hoping to chronicle my struggle as this will be my first attempt at a real auto project. so if you've got something to add, don't be a jackass as i probably dont know. this will be a muli-part story hopefully ending up with a somewhat self sufficient truck camper, i sold my BMW m3 6spd

beautiful car just not practical at all and i'm 6'3" so i hardly fit into it. growing up my parents had a 7.3 excursion so i fell in love with fords and diesel. we towed a 33' jayco so i fell in love with the outdoors, having joined the army has only furthered that passion. my jeep

a little NC beach action

so i've decided to make a truck camper of sorts, this it the beginning of that build which will probably take a while due to work but i should have a nice lull the next couple of months. anyway, initially i wanted to do a cummins into an X because of how cheap a X gasser is but do to some special requirements its got to be a truck. anyway i'm not to that part of the build yet lets talk about the donor and removing the engine for a bit. i picked up a 96 2wd 2500 5.9 for 4k

engine ran pretty good, cold starts were rough and the fuel shut off solenoid was temperamental. the transmission however was crap, that's ok i'd like a rowboat when i'm done anyway i'm thinking a zf-6 as it is lighter, cheaper and seems to be more reliable from my internet searching, we'll see i guess.

anyway like i said this is my first real serious auto project so i'd like to hit on some of the struggles i've had in the hope that someone with similar problems can get a solid answer, or at least one that kinda works. so i was lucky, i inherited a FSM for the dodge as part of the sale

dis-assembly of the truck was pretty straight forward when in question just remove more bolts. the 6(?) transmission bolts were kind of a pain in the [email protected]@ especially the top 2. for the one on the passenger side, just keep removing stuff near it until you can access it from the top. the one on the driver side i had to use a clever combination of universal joints and extensions, it was gangster. there are 6(?) bolts mounting the torque adapter onto the flywheel, there is a roundish service cover on the engine side of the trans adapter with two bolts, remove this cover and you can feel the bolts on the flywheel, use a breaker bar to turn the torque adapter and put your finger in the service hole to feel for the bolts. if you get a light just right you can see them between the flywheel and the trans adapter from the side.

as for removing the engine, some have said it can be removed without taking the valve covers off of cylinder 5 and 6 and leaving the oil pan on, good luck. i put the engine on the hoist, removed the engine mount bolts from the engine couldn't get it out, removed the oil pan and made some serious progress, then i removed the engine mounts all together because they kept getting hung up and she came right out.

getting it onto the stand was another fun challenge, the legs of the hoist and stand will not fit inside each other, awesome. anyway i took the flywheel, trans adapter and rear main seal off, mounted the stand plate to the engine than slid the engine stand onto the plate, so now i have an 1100 lb engine with the engine stand dangling from my engine hoist, this smells of safety. to get all of the wheels on the ground i began lowering and twisting it so eventually the legs of both of them kind of formed an L. Great success!

the rotors are on there to make me feel better not because it necessarily needs it. that is a harbor freight stand so hopefully i'm not waking up in the middle of the night to loud crashing noises, we'll see, there didn't seem to be a lot of options available in that weight range plus a buffer zone and my price range.

anyway today i started removing stuff, picked up some lunch baggies to keep track of what goes where. did a little shopping on the internet, i'd like to get this as close to a new engine as possible so new water pump, oil pump, etc. its looking like 1100 or so for new accessories.

question, this automatic transmission oil cooler, how is that different than the transmission cooler in front of the intercooler? its cooled by coolant, as opposed to air cooled, both seemed to have the same trans fluid in them, just wondering why two coolers, and will i need to keep it for a zf-6, reason i ask is i know it has an internal pump.
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Retourque headbolts, change injectors. 10 plate and 3k kit was too much for Me.
The 96-97 5 SPd trucks already rev to 2750 so, the 3k gsk didn't do much and was $ and a pain to install and adjust. I put in the 10 plate and slid it back so I would only make 35 psi with stock turbo. Higher than that and you leave the efficiency map and cylinder pressure goes up to high and you might have head gasket issues. Injectors need to be changed anyways and are cheap and easy to do. I would go that route first. I towed a lot with it and had enough power and it had good drivability. I had low fuel pressure so I changed lift pump and put a Tork technology overflow valve on. This is just my opinion and experience. Head gaskets aren't that bad to do but the $600 could be better spent. Have fun!!
If you want a good clean truck check out trucks from Arizona. My brother bought one there and with 200,000 miles it looks new underneath. Too many Canucks live there now so the price might be higher but a truck which has spent it's life out there might be worth the flight and diesel to get it home.
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