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Real trucks rattle
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Discussion Starter #1
A friend and I are lookin to do a cummins conversion to a 97 F350 and we were debating on putting either a 12v or 24v. I dont know to much about cummins but like the idea. I know it will probably come down to preference but which motor would be better, I like the simplicity of the 12v but he likes the 24v. Any input on which one to go with would help. What are some good companies to look at for performance internals and accessories. Thanks guys
 

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The 12v will make your life much easier. Also, it is more capable of producing high horsepower numbers if thats something you guys are looking for. As for internals, you shouldn't really need internal parts until you start getting up in the higher hp levels. There are lots of different options for things like injectors, and fuel pump mods depending on which way you go. I'd recommend the 12v because its a more capable more reliable engine. The main benefit to the 24v is being able to turn the box down for towing.
Sean
 

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Personally I tend to lean towards the 24V engines.

All the toys are plug and play and are tuneable on the fly. You can also stack programmers and enhancement boxes for more power (HP/TQ). Also the timing on a 24V is dynamic so its giving better timing than 12V static timing...

I got to admit a 12V is much easier to make work and doesn't required a bunch. But there is pluses here too. Most of the power can be made very cheap. Adjustments to the p-pump are fairly easy for cheap and quick power...

Just my 2 cents to this subject...:Thumbup:
 

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sstockton said:
The 12v will make your life much easier. Also, it is more capable of producing high horsepower numbers if thats something you guys are looking for. As for internals, you shouldn't really need internal parts until you start getting up in the higher hp levels. There are lots of different options for things like injectors, and fuel pump mods depending on which way you go. I'd recommend the 12v because its a more capable more reliable engine. The main benefit to the 24v is being able to turn the box down for towing.
Sean

Twisted Shifter said:
When doing a conversion the 12V is way easier to do! Especially if you do a 95/96 that dont have near the electronic controls.
What they said. If you care to mix and match parts though use the Pump, timing cover, etc. off of the 12v and put it on a 24 valve engine. Then you still have the lack of electronics of the 12v, but the airflow, centered injection, lower compression (just naming a few) of a 24v. That's why the rail cars you see will use the 12v pump (P7100) on 24 valves engines.

If you want to keep it simple and not mess with the engine much, then just swap a 12v in.
 

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Real trucks rattle
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input. We are going to try for some higher hp numbers so I want to try and build a motor dependind on the cost of that. What can a stock motor hold for hp before grenading. And as far as mixing 12/24v parts how hard is this to do. I didnt know that you can do this and if I am going to do the swap I might as well get the best out of everything.
 

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as for parts and stuff go through destroked.com, i would also say go for a 12v much easier conversion and simpler to work on
 

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The 12 valve will have way more power potential, and easier swap. And from what I hear P-pumped 24 valves are a hit or miss kinda thing. Some work great and others never quite work right and nobody knows why.

If it were me I'd be debating between a 03&+ common rail or the the P-pumped 12 valve for a swap. The 98.5-02 24 valves VP44 fuel pump isn't as stout as the P7100 or the CP3 IMPO

So basically to me if you want:
Simple, cheap, easy power get a P-pumped 12 valve
Electronic options, high power potential, the best drivability get a common rail
 

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I second phily, CR is too complicated, a 12v will be easy and it will go 700 horsepower pretty conservatively actually before you need to upgrade the internals but if you look to spin it too much you need to balance and blueprint the internals
 

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Phily 911 said:
I think a Common Rail swap for a Novice might be nothing short of a nightmare.
Depends on the novice
 

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There is just a lot more cost, and electronic issues associated with going with a CR engine. Then you have to decide what transmission you want to run, and how you are going to get around any ECM and elctronics issues you may encounter with that. I would go with a 12v, and either a 47rh or Nv4500, or Zf transmission. It will put it within a reasonable budget for most people. Its hard to spend the money bombing a truck when you have 10,000 plus into the engine and trans swap. Just my Opinion.
Sean
 

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Dual K20s said:
Depends on the novice

Riiiiight. So you're telling me a guy that doesn't know what Cummins is the best for dropping in a ford, is going wizz right threw dropping a CR in a Ford. That's excellent logic.
 

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Real trucks rattle
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Discussion Starter #16
come on now I am not a newbie I was just looking for some input on which motor would be worth doing. I help build 700+ hp gassers with a pullin buddy so I have had experience with motor work and have done some motor swaps gasser swaps have a sh** ton of wiring but nothin with diesels. I dont want to go with a CR project because this is going to be a side project and want it to go as easy as possible. But thanks for the input guys I think it is going to be a 12v.
 

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Real trucks rattle
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Discussion Starter #17
Should I go with the full tranny swap to or should I get the adapter plate for the ford trans to a cummins
 

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well, if you're lookin to do a manual then the NV4500 would be good with a little work, 5th gear nut and input shaft, and it would probably fit pretty easily dpending on the dimensions of the zf trannies that Ford used, still uses? whatever, and if you're looking for ease 12v.

if you find a NV5600 they're pretty stout, BUT, new venture has quit making parts for them so they'll be getting rarer(?) and more expensive
 

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powerstroker97 said:
come on now I am not a newbie I was just looking for some input on which motor would be worth doing. I help build 700+ hp gassers with a pullin buddy so I have had experience with motor work and have done some motor swaps gasser swaps have a sh** ton of wiring but nothin with diesels. I dont want to go with a CR project because this is going to be a side project and want it to go as easy as possible. But thanks for the input guys I think it is going to be a 12v.
I'm not dogging your mechanical skills. John Lingenfelter and Carroll Shelby probably can't even pull off a CR drop in a Ford. (Gale Banks probably can't either, but that's a different story.)
You'll drop a 12v in there without any major issues. You might find it easier than a gasser!


powerstroker97 said:
Should I go with the full tranny swap to or should I get the adapter plate for the ford trans to a cummins
Just go to destroked dot com for parts. It'll probably be easier than messing with the trany, t-case, drive shafts, axles, mounts, etc.
 
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