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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...proportionately.
Weird. If I start to mash down on the pedal, the oil guage goes down the same amount and rate. Idles just fine. If I just slowly acelerate, oil pressure is OK.

Oil guage did the same thing w/the previous owner.

I have a 91.5, 2wd auto, btw. Any ideas? I'd bet the guage, but what's throwing me is the proportionality of it.

Thanks. Gary
 

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I would say the pressure sender is failing...

I also would hook up a test gauge (mechanical) at the filter housing to verify for sure...
 

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Do the other gages move like the oil pressure?
Check the engine ground.

Verify the oil pressure with a mechanical gage, a cheap one taped to the windshield for long enough to see if the pressure is dropping, in fact.

Check the oil level for a shift in the dipstick or other improper level indicators.

Check for obstructed oil pickup screen.

keydl
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Shoot, lost everything I typed when I did another window to show these.

Again...

Thanks for the input. I agree I'll have to pick up a mechanical gauge and stick it it. I had a f**d ranger that had a piece of oil pan gasket break off and turn into an obstruction. 2wd = pull engine to get at that. This dodge is a 2wd. :(

The previous owner was a slob, so I figured the maintenance of this vehicle would be also. It was. Changed the oil and filter, then added a can of seafoam to clean it out. Same for fuel, plus seafoam. He had it for 130K miles and changed fuel filter twice.

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/gallery/files/1/8/4/0/0/fuelfilter.jpg

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/gallery/files/1/8/4/0/0/fuelfilter1.jpg

CumminsPride helped me on another thread that may be related. When cleaning up the vehicle, I noted a spark when I reconnected the neg to the batt (after pos was already on). So I went and pulled one fuse at a time and noted less spark when dome/int light was disconnected. So short there I'd bet.

This is starting to remind me of a dog I took in once. I had to clean it up real good and get it back on its feet in good health. That dog lasted me a good five or so more years. Hopefully this truck will also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
cumminspride said:
I sould suggest at least a TSC oil psi guage ran str8 into the cab. Pull the oil sender and pop a 1/8npt adapter in there and tap your gauge in.
Gracias. In the process of doing that. Gonna add a pyro and temp as the temp was moving pretty erratically--too much fluctuation too quickly.
 

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Well for the information value...

MINIMUM OIL PRESSURE at Idle is 10 PSI
MINIMUM OIL PRESSURE at 2K RPMs is 30 PSI

From a 2nd gen FSM book...
 

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Sender! Exact same thing to the t as far as symptoms as mine! 23 bucks later I was back on my way and happy again. Try it anyway .02
 

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Check the body grounds on the truck. A lot of the time the first thing to act up on a bad ground is gages. The 10ga wire off the negative terminal has paint under it. Sand the paint off and resecure the ground and see if the problem goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gonna replace the sender/gauge this weekend. Also, replace the ABS thingie on top of the pumkin....that is, if it doesn't snow again like last weekend.


Thanks all. :Thumbup:
 

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replace the ABS thingie on top of the pumkin
Why?????

That system was a very poor system. It isn't worth the money to repair it. Unhook the controller behind the glove box and forget it.

If you have a low brake pedal and can't get the brake pedal to come up properly. Bypass the RWAL valve assy. It is located on the left frame rail above the axle assy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Philip said:
Why?????

That system was a very poor system. It isn't worth the money to repair it. Unhook the controller behind the glove box and forget it.
:D I like your way of thinking. The ABS sucks as both rear end taps I've gotten into was when the ABS let the vehicle lurch forward.

Good weather today so off goes the connector. :Thumbup:

If you have a low brake pedal and can't get the brake pedal to come up properly. Bypass the RWAL valve assy. It is located on the left frame rail above the axle assy.
my brake problem is I have to use both feet and almost stand on the brakes to get it to stop. At lites, best to take it out of gear. Slob I bought it from told me it's been like that for a while and all of the braking is done by the front. He said he replaced the proportioning valve.

First thing is to disconnect the controller that I already forgot.:thanks:
 

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If you have to stand on the brakes that hard you do have some issues to say the least.

Does the pedal drift down when your at a traffic light holding pressure on it???

I bet the rear ajusters aren't working eather. Jack the rear end up. Tighten the star wheels up till you feel a slight drag on the wheel when you turn it. If that helps pull the rear drums and replace all the small parts with new and the rear adjusters should work then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Philip said:
If you have to stand on the brakes that hard you do have some issues to say the least.
The whole vehicle had issues when I bought it from that slob. But one by one, I'm addressing them. Next in line is the brakes which I'm gonna tackle today seeing as the weather is good.

[qoute] Does the pedal drift down when your at a traffic light holding pressure on it???[/quote]

Nope. I"m going out now to start in on it.

:D

EDIT:
well, went out and disconnected a wire plug going into a black chrysler box behind the glove box. Backed out and ran over my toolbox. ;) [least it ain't monday yet] drove forward over said toolbox, got out and must have bent it back as it was able to close and lock (plastic craftsman).

ABS light went out. Brakes still worked and "brake" light stayed on most of the time, but twice it went off.
Can hold it down and keep it in gear. Still feels like no power brakes.

Toolbox is OK...no one saw it--either time. :D
 
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