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This will cover DT360, DT408, DT466, DT530, as well as many other engines, but timing marks and access may be different.

The 93-97's with the Bosch P-pump: On the front of the pump (timing case)is a 3 bolt cover (8mm heads)that you remove. This is the picture below looking down on the engine & the alt belt looks red(funky camera). This cover has an o-ring and is usually good for reassembly without replacing.

P-pump equipped:
Inside is the 13mm headed bolts that set the timing, & there's 4 of those bolts. Before you loosen the bolts, mark the original timing setting for reference with a sharpie or such. Crank the engine over at the alternator(you may need to hold the belts tighter, plus it turns better one way than the other) until you can insert a 1/4" bolt or equal size phillips screwdriver to stop the engine from turning(by hand, not with starter!). The pilot hole is in the slots of the gear at 3 o' clock as you look at it from the front. The bolt will slip in as the timing comes into its spot. Now, break the gear bolts loose, but keep 1 of them tight. Slowly crank the engine over until it snugs up on the bolt. Loosen the last bolt, they dont need to come out, just backed off a few turns. Mark your starting timing on the balancer now before you move the engine. Then if you can read the balancer, go the desired number of degrees in the same direction the alt will let it turn(which will advance the timing). Tighten the gear bolts up, remove the bolt that was pinned in, and put the cover back on.


The older ones have about 8 or 10 bolts to remove the cover from the timing case. I think there's 2 sets of bolts that have nuts on the back side. You may need to re-gasket the cover before re-installation. Remove the plug on the side of the timing gear case, it has a 3/8" square drive. In there you will be lining up the timing marks. Very helpful to have a second person here. Bar the engine over from the alternator until the timing marks are lined up on the pointers, the will look like this: >< when it's lined up. When you have that, mark on the balancer or make note of your original setting. Now loosen up the bolts(don't remove) on the gear, after you pull off the front cover, but leave 1 tight. Bar the engine over from the alt. to advance slowly until desired amount of degrees. If no timing marks to go by, measure 1/8" per degree. Loosen the last bolt on the gear, and line the marks back up using the big nut on the front of the pump. Then, tighten the gear bolts back up, put on the front cover, and timing plug. I made a video if this down in post #14 below.


The 4 bolts on the timing adjustment need to be pretty tight, but be careful not to go too tight & break one off(specs say 38 ft lbs). If yours is set at 17* timing from the factory, you may not even notice any benefit, this is more for the 10-15* timed engines. The goal is to be around 17-19* advanced timing and after you've upped the fuel rate some.
 

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Thanks!
If I had better access to these engines, I'd have better pictures, and be able to do more of a walk thru type of instruction.
 
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dt466 Timing

I'm trying to find how to time a new pump out of the box. The person who removed the old pump set the crank at t.d.c. but did not mark the timing gear. He thought it had permanet marks on the gears. How do I set the pump to the desired 17-19* advanced position while on the bench? It's a '95.
 

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You set the PUMP at "TDC" and the CRANK at 17*-19* BTDC, just make SURE you are on the COMPRESSION stroke of #1 when you do this, or you'll have to try a second time with the crank rotated 360*! Don't ask how I know - LoL.

There are no marks on the pump gear to the idler gear, you align the timing mark on therear of the IP gear to the pointer under the plug in the driver's side of the front cover (3/8" female square drive plug), with the CRANK set at 17*-19* BTDC, you slip the pump on with the drive gear bolts LOOSE so the timing mark in the hole lines up with the pointer in the hole, THEN Tq the gear bolts down.
 
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hdcolo said:
Thanks for the reply John
My problem is I can't seem to locate any plug in the cover or any 3/8"
square drive plug anywhere.
LoL I have GOT to start reading more carefully.....

You have a '95! DOH!

You set the crank to the desired timing (BTDC) than remove the gear cover and there is a "5th hole" in the IP gear, from memory, you install a 1/4" bolt thru that hole in the gear and into the coorisponding hole in the rear half of the front cover - THEN tighten the four bolts on the IP drive gear.

Sorry for the confusion.
 

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Hopefully this revised version will work for most of you a little better.
 

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Actually, I'm going to pick up a 466 in Monday. I'm planning on doing a couple of follow-along videos of how to do all this cool stuff.
 

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I finally adjusted the timing on my bus. It made a huge difference! Power is way up, and it doesn't smoke so bad. (It still smokes a bit - it came to me with a broken hour-meter that stopped at 6000, so it's gonna.) I tested it out and I was in the next higher gear all the way up the hill - 4th where I used to be in 3rd, and 3rd where it used to need 2nd or even 1st! (It's only a 5 speed.) The videos really helped. Without seeing those I was afraid to take the cover off. Once I did it was much easier than I expected, but I'm always afraid of messing something up, so I hesitate to dive in there and take things apart. I spent several days searching the archives and reading up ahead of time. Thanks everyone for all the posts, and neverenufhp for the videos!
 

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DT466. Unknown year, has MW pump, the small 2.5" intake manifold coupling, no charge cooler, "plus" head and the single vertically oriented oil feed rockers which is pre-400,000 sn. Block looks like "1802330 C2" to me.

My question is the timing pointer.. Is that little knob in the pulley for TDC or is it a static base advance number? Is each notch one degree, two degrees? Can i check the travel of any pump plungers to verify phase angle of the pump?
 

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The knob is for TDC, and each notch is 1 degree. Each degree is about 1/8" apart. You certainly could do timing with the plunger lift. Or at least to check phase.
 
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