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Contain the BTU's...
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Adventures in 6.0 PSD exhaust mods part #2


So maybe you enjoyed my first attempt at sharing power secrets or completely disagree with it. If so, this next part should send you reeling into the stratosphere and railing about my personal opinions…. 
I tried to offer a few insights into “turbo-feeding” in part #1 and I think a few folks are still reluctant to consider the changes based on the emails. As mentioned in my earlier thread, many people have tried one or some combination of tricks but none have completed the puzzle from what I see in the threads. Its all in the BTU’s and how you use them. I’ll try and present the “tricks” a little differently.

Exhaust flow with-in a turbo system is not a bigger is better thing. Its about maintaining the desired exhaust gas velocity to ensure that proper torque is applied to the turbine wheel. This process is focused on achieving the minimum efficient turbine speed so that our turbo’s create boost at the lowest rpm possible. In-other-words, we are making the MAP wider and sooner which has the effect of making a very responsive low & midrange rpm diesel. (* claims of big improvements high in the rpm band don’t interest me as these changes only severely limit the 6.0’s low end pulling potential which btw is why 99% of Powerstroke owners purchased the F-series.*) just for the record, a 6.0 liter engine can’t produce enough exhaust volume to exceed a 4 inch mandrel system. Larger sizes only improve ones ego and produce more harmonics. Class 8 14 liter “big boys” are running a single 4 inch pipe btw.
I know many of you are very tired of reading my rants about drive-pressure but if anyone missed the definitions and why’s please refer to part#1. Any turbo’s total flow capability is governed by drive pressure. This one variable alone is what dictates how, when, and how long boost is produced. However, after several changes and much testing, the VGT housing can be modified to substantially improve low-end boost response. When I’m finished playing with the prototype, I’ll post pics although the important changes can’t really be seen very well with a camera from the outside….

I’ve decided to focus my posting efforts on the working folks who make a living with there 6.0 PSD. So the following mods are intended for those who will retain most of the OEM components. For this reason, my observations are with a stock VGT and exhaust manifolds since most 6.0 owners will never need to remove the OEM units. The V-pipe minus its EGR scoop is basically stock and very similar to pics posted by Mr stuck-in-the-mud.as presented in part #1.

So how did I improve upon the tweeking in part#1?

First I installed my new Y-pipe design that incorporates everything I mentioned in part one and a few others “tricks”. I’m rather amazed at the improvements this mod alone provided! Then I called Tim Thompson at ATP-wrap www.atpwrap.com to have Inconel shields made to ensure the maximum amount of heat energy is transferred to the turbine to make more BOOST! *check out the Alloy racing tab and feast your eyes on some true works of art!* This technology has been and is in use by Formula One, IRL, and Cart to name a few, IT SIMPLY WORKS!

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The turbine shield consist of multiple pieces so it can be installed with the turbo in place. This one addition is amazing in its benefits. The Y-pipe, EGR tubes and exhaust manifolds are fully covered as well to ensure every possible btu is managed. Before anyone drops your coffee, consider this, inconel is nearly indestructible for our needs and will retain its “bling” factor forever! Most other shield materials will deteriorate over time from the intense heat and will need replacing.

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Please don’t confuse a thin aluminum deflector with a properly designed reflective shield. I’ve personal seen and witnessed a gloved hand placed on a turbine housing during a dyno pull with no burns! The combo of ceramics and inconel works wonders.
Consider this for a moment; a turbine housing can easily reach over 1200F while pulling a load over the hills. Its very unlikely these shields will exceed an external temp of 300F no matter what the 6.0 is doing. Insulating the turbine housing does several things; first it will usually remove or at least reduce turbo lag to unnoticeable levels! This one benefit is worth the cost IMHO. Second, increased internal turbine temps serve to maintain cleaner surfaces, ie, much less soot buildup because the unburned fuel particles are ignited which btw acts like the later stages in a jet engine design. When combined with the correct ceramic coatings, soot buildup is a non issue. Speaking of aviation engineering, which alloy do they use in high performance jets? Yep, inconel because it works!
Now that the entire exhaust track is insulated properly, the throttle response is outstanding and rivals that of a well built big block turbo gasser. 

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So what are the results of my mad methods you ask? Well, believe it or not, you can touch the manifolds or turbine shields while setting on the dyno and NOT BURN your fingers! Simple put, the heat energy that previously cooked your engine compartment, roasted your starter, and fried the audio system to the point of not working is now being forced to drive the turbine wheel.* maximum surface temp of the turbine shield does not exceed 190F on mine! Question??? How hot must cast iron be to glow? That number is what’s hitting your firewall and being wasted on an unprotected 6.0 * I believe with the added exhaust temp / velocity, a slighty larger turbine housing and or turbine wheel could be used to further reduce the drive pressure so inherently high with VGT designs. To correctly manage a thermal mass; and then channel the extreme heat waves, pulses, reflections, and expanding gases directly into the turbine section, is much more involved then what most believe. Ensuring the maximum amount of exhaust energy is channeled into the turbine section is immensely important to ensure max torque is applied within the turbine wheel itself. Turbine Efficiency is the biggest secret that most overlook.
For those looking to reduce fuel cost and improve your bottom line profits, I highly recommend the turbine and V-pipe shields.
I thought the dyno numbers issue over a long time, and decided that since my combination is different from any other, posting dyno results is relevant and only serves to build false hopes in people looking to improve drivability. For this reason and the fact I despise false advertising, I feel its in everyone’s best interest to allow the modifications and products mentioned to stand alone in there benefits. After all physics and thermal dynamics don’t lie!

Heres a few observed benefits so far on my 04 test mule with 91K miles; it has an intake kit., 4” exhaust with cat in place but modified to except 4” in & out, all items mentioned above, regulated fuel bypass kit running about 30 psi at idle & 50 psi at WFO. Custom tune via a SCT . Everything else is as it was when shipped from Kentucky.

Peak EGT’s (working or playing) are lower by nearly 130F than before the project. The temp reduction is from increased exhaust flow and substantial reduction in pressure drop thru-out the system. Additional benefits are the throttle response is improved, warm up times are slighty shorter, and I can open the hood after dragging a 12Klb trailer around and its not that bad should one need to polish something.
*intake manifold temps are down about 100F based on manifold surface temps via a laser gauge and I’ll bet a few beers intake air temps are better overall but I have yet to confirm it.*
*No longer will the ICP sensor get wrecked because radiate heat is now a full 80% lower than stock.
*Internal turbine temps are probably 300F higher than stock. This increase acts to further burn unspent fuel and greatly reduces soot buildup. Additional benefits are the emissions are now cleaner than OEM levels. This little point is true on any internal combustion engine gas or diesel. The hotter it burns, the cleaner it be!
One additional benefit I must mention, placing all available BTU’s in the turbine track, provides additional torque to spin larger compressors folks. This means the Turbine output power is now higher and at much higher efficiency levels . Dig out the turbo wheel application catalogs and compare the forces, most are listed in in-lbs or Newton-meters.
* The OEM heat deflectors are an insult to basic thermal design engineering and no longer needed or used.*
*The AC is blowing colder as its components are no longer being bombarded by the 700F passenger exhaust manifold and the accumulator is must colder by about 30F. All good!*
*No more smoke! The 6.0 is using all the fuel Eric’s extreme file can delivery without major modifications to fuel system hardware.
*Need another reason? How about an easy two to five percent increase in proven horsepower by ceramics alone!
*Safe to the ground power figures of 450+hp are very achievable when the 6.0 PSD is allowed to breath freely.
The only negatives to date are the rather “elevated” exhaust temps at the exhaust tip and the increased whistle. Depending on how old your exhaust system is, it may again smell like new for awhile as the back half is tempered by the increased temps. Exhaust tip temps are very high now and can burn things under heavy load. In fact, the exhaust gases now condense some mornings and “she” looks like a steam engine as I creep out to the street.
*funny story, I had a guy (I think) follow me into the local Loves truck stop and bit** me out about how I burned his cheek in his little convertible whatever…….you have no idea how hard it was to keep a straight face while I continued to fuel up with B20……his male (I think) passenger kept complaining OMG how they needed to leave before one of those big trucks ran over them 
The second item I suspect some will prefer because the 6.0 sings when cruising. I’m personally not a fan of anything that detracts from my stealth mode especially when I have to turn up the stereo…..

Would I do it again? Yes, only next time I plan to pull the 6.0 and rebuild it from scratch since the dealer cant seem to stop the bed plate from leaking…..Heck, if it has to be out why not do it right. After the crafting is complete, ceramic coat everything including the combustion chambers, valve faces, exhaust port passages (new heads), pistons, rods, and crank as these steps force the heat energy to push the piston and greatly reduce head temps. Remember were after every last BTU to spin the turbine. O-ringing the block & heads, much more porting and matching, ceramic coat most surfaces, then remove the EGR cooler and install the fogger nozzles from below the new custom modified, TIG welded intake…hee…hee….hee…

In case a few interested parties are still wondering about the Y-pipe design, I’ve had one P.E., one aeronautical engineer and two M.E.’s review the design intent and I’m now waiting on the patent papers before I release the final designs for sale. All I can say now is the low and midrange response is beyond my hopes. The plan is to offer a kit for all 6.0’s. If it works for all parties, I also have 7.3 plans, and even a fix for the Duro-dog. But one thing at a time…..
I will need one or two local folks who drive there trucks everyday under city or towing conditions just to ensure some real world testing data. My and my Dad’s trunks aren’t really work horses anymore so I want to be certain the kit can take the heat cycling.
For you drag racing folks, I feel 100% certain the kit will improve the 60ft times a bunch assuming the other parts hold together.


Wekiwa

“with a little Imagineering, a couple lathes, and a few TIG welders, a guy named Walt created a place called Disney! Just think what we can do to our 6.0’s”
 

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Ile be your huckaby......The under the hood temp drops are outstanding to say the least...no more waiting 3 hours to tinker on this or that...great work wekiwa....
jschall
 

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Great write up! :Thumbup: Any idea on a release date?
 

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I want to be one of your testers, and oddly enough I am in Texas as well! Great write up and very useful information. Thanks again!
 

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Interesting info. Sounds like your on to something. I'll be interested to see how all the tests work out as I drive my truck for a living 6 days a week and play on the 7th:popcorn: .
 

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Got Torque?
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Any idea on cost/timing?

Another thought, the components you are insulating, they will now be runnin at a few hundred degrees hotter. I've heard of pipes cracking when this is done, so my question is, how certain are we you that heat fatigue won't ruin the whole upgrade? I mean, works great now and next week, but 6-12 months down the line, something goes and you are in trouble. I still like the idea a lot, but i wonder whether we may need better metals to take the extra heat.

Ralph
 

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Contain the BTU's...
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Discussion Starter #10
Extended Power said:
Soooo...do we order the wraps from you or ATPWRAP??
And...how much $$$?
Call Tim at ATP. Pricing is Tim's area, I simple asked for a product to help the 6.0 run better!

:Thumbup:
Wekiwa
 

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Contain the BTU's...
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Discussion Starter #11
ralphinnj said:
Any idea on cost/timing?

Another thought, the components you are insulating, they will now be runnin at a few hundred degrees hotter. I've heard of pipes cracking when this is done, so my question is, how certain are we you that heat fatigue won't ruin the whole upgrade? I mean, works great now and next week, but 6-12 months down the line, something goes and you are in trouble. I still like the idea a lot, but i wonder whether we may need better metals to take the extra heat.

Ralph
You make excellent points of concern Ralph! Here’s the skinny;

As I mentioned before, this technology has been in use for 50+ yrs and works extremely well when applied correctly. Insulating an exhaust doesn’t make it hotter because the gas temperature existing the heads hasn’t changed, assuming no other modifications were made. A thermal barrier simple allows a substrate to reach its “heat-soak” temp sooner and maintain it longer. This near constant temp greatly reduces the possibility of thermal shock or stress cracking and maintains a hotter gas temp which in turn supports a higher gas velocity. Remember heat flows in the direction of least resistance ie the air around the pipes. FMC should have learned this lesson but didn’t as evidenced by the V-pipe warrantee issues on the 6.0’s.
Insulating a turbo’s turbine and “feed” piping is the best method to improve a stock turbo response and maximum power output. Proper insulation will also deliver better fuel mileage in most cases.
If anyone is concerned over increased oil temps, any high quality true synthetic oil will easily handle any diesel demands. Some dyno formulas will as well however 5K miles is about the max between oil changes. (*don’t bother flaming me over oil issues. Do what you’re comfortable with and I’ll do what I know works.*)
As for materials and design, I know what not to use and what design doesn’t work well……the OEM example is undeniable proof of that….

Timing I can't comment on yet becuase I don't know. Pricing will depend on materials cost which we're still working out. I'll post when the kits are ready!
Great questions!
:Thumbup:
Wekiwa
 

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Contain the BTU's...
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks to everyone for the kind words. My only intent is to help guide folks to achieving a strong reliable daily driver.
If I need to supply a portion of the final solution, then so be it.
Ain't America great!
:usflag

Wekiwa
 

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Wekiwa said:
Thanks to everyone for the kind words. My only intent is to help guide folks to achieving a strong reliable daily driver.
If I need to supply a portion of the final solution, then so be it.
Ain't America great!
:usflag

Wekiwa

Right-On!!! No race truck! I like strong reliable daily driver. I can't wait!!

:usflag
 

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Excellent article. Anxiously awaiting the kit. So did you ceramic coat the turob housing as well then apply the wrap? So are looking into changing the exhaust manifolds for a better flow design or is the oem good enough. And again keep up the information and good work.
 

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TDG Mafia Member #24
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I'de love one of these kits, I do however have one of Beans modified turbos, Would this still work on mine?
 

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Contain the BTU's...
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Discussion Starter #16
bruisnit said:
Excellent article. Anxiously awaiting the kit. So did you ceramic coat the turob housing as well then apply the wrap? So are looking into changing the exhaust manifolds for a better flow design or is the oem good enough. And again keep up the information and good work.
Yep! Everything is ceramic coated. This two-pronged approach ensures every last btu possible is managed toward the turbine.
Exhaust manifolds.......uhhhh....I know I could do it but thats an expensive under taking and time consuming venture. I have the drawings though :evil:

Wekiwa
 

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Contain the BTU's...
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Discussion Starter #17
AUGSX said:
I'de love one of these kits, I do however have one of Beans modified turbos, Would this still work on mine?
Yes, the shields will fit any VGT 6.0 version. The Y-pipe will as well because the outer diamensions haven't changed. Bean's version is internal in design so again yes.

Wekiwa
 

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Do you have to cut the material yourself, or is it premade to fit all pieces. Who did you have do your ceramic coating? Do you recomend full ceramic coating to the tip of the exhaust?
 

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Contain the BTU's...
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Discussion Starter #19
bruisnit said:
Do you have to cut the material yourself, or is it premade to fit all pieces. Who did you have do your ceramic coating? Do you recomend full ceramic coating to the tip of the exhaust?
Tim's kit is premolded with retaining tabs & S.S. wire.
As mentioned in part #1, ceramics seal the metal surfaces, protect from corrsion and retain thermal energy extremely well. I personaly believe coating back to the cat is enough as this protects the trans components and wiring harnesses. It certainly would hurt to coat back to tip but I question benefit value.
Thx,
:Thumbup:
Wekiwa
 

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General Contractor
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I am game if you are interested in a truck that pulls 15k every day, in florida.
 
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