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Discussion Starter #1
Well, here is the issue. to refresh some memories, i have a 2001 HO 6-speed with 68500. added exhaust and intake before adding a quadzilla exillerater xzt+ (timing and fuel).a week after the module install truck started to vibrate more and started hearing x-tra noise. unpluged module and still vibrated and the engine still didn't seem as smooth. to date i have adjusted valves, installed airdog fuel system, installed new 40 hp injectors, installed new vp44 from blue chip. after the new vp44 install with the module plugged in but on stock setting, the truck seemed a lot smoother. then put the module on level 3 (which is only 70 hp) and drove for awhile and the vibrating came back and the x-tra noise. at 2000 rpm on the highway it has good power but its not smooth, its like there is one odd spot that you can hear, but the power is pretty good. you can feel the vibration in the shifter. i am at the end of my rope with this and my budget some one PLEASE help!
 

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I'm not trying to start a fight, but if your truck isn't running right. I wouldn't keep throwing more high performance parts at it.

I know it seems we've been saying this to alot of people with problems. But electronic problems plague these. Unfortantly most of us will have a tough time pin pointing what your viberation is like. I'd try to get a good diagonostic tool and see if a cylinder cutout test helps pin point if it's a firing problem in a cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the intake and exhaust were on way before this problem, the problem started after the module install. the airdog was due to finding out my lift pump was bad, the injectors cause i thought maybe i had a bad one, got them tested and they had low presures. after the new injectors didn't fix it i did an injector cutout test and didn't seem to notice a big difference in any single cylinder. then talked to chip fisher and he said the vp could be bad. the power seems good but i still hear an odd knocking sound. is there anything else that could make a knocking thats not related to the fuel system other thab the obvious bottom end. the knock is not loud enough to be a rod knock and oil pressure hasn't changed. and why would a mild 70 hp module create a problem.
 

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You might want to verify the oil pressure with another gauge hooked up to the filter housing. There should be a plug for testing there...

You might have the oil tested and see if anything is HIGH leveled...

Any error codes???
 

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Might want to pull the fan and get a close look at the vibration dampner.

With a 45 deg elbow the mechanical gage will fit nice and stay. Looks good on the oil filter casting.

keydl
 

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Could it be something to do with the rest of your drive train i.e. u-joints, carrier bearing, rear end? i'm not sure if these would cause the same problems you are having i'm just throwin them out there. Or are you sure it is the engine.
 

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So its still there with the module turned off or unplugged? Is it a speed issue or an RPM issue? Harmonic frequencies with spinning things can cause all kinds of weird vibration that comes and goes depending on how fast it is spinning. If its a speed thing, I would guess drive shafts out of balance or something like that. If its an RPM thing I would guess clutch or fly wheel. My friend had a similar issue with his 01 auto and an edge. anything stage 2 or above would vibrate when a load was put on it, that turned out to be the drive shaft. My stock converter used to vibrate terribly when going into lock up because of a warp front cover. With the added power you are throwing at it, a worn out clutch or flywheel wouldn't surprise me at all. Could also be something inside the trans, but that seems far less likely.
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #9
wow thanks for all the replys.i can hear this odd knocking just sitting idleing. it goes with rpm, the higher the rpms the quicker the knocking, now its not very loud but i can hear it. it never had that before. the vibration i feel in the stick is less with the module disconnected. when on high the stick vibrates alot more. now after the new vp44 was on i drove with it on high. the power was insain, but the knocking was still there. the power was for the first time splipping the clutch. in 3rd or 4th gear i'd mat the thing and r's would go up higher than normal then come down and the truck would accelerate faster when the r;s come down. could a going bad clutch make this knocking , why is this vibration worse when module on high, if the clutch could do this this would make sense that the extra power made the clutch weeker.
 

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My guess is if the clutch is bad or flywheel warped or something, the higher power putting more of a load on it would cause the vibration to be worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i forgot to answer this guestion before, there are no codes and never were any. i did think about getting the oil tested simply cause we do oil testing on our buses at work and i had it done on my big block chevy. sometimes i have to remind myself of the KISS theory, Keep It Simple Stupid. if the clutch was the problem would i have any other issues, like the pedal feel is different, or the travel or the way it grabs when pulling out. is there any specific things that go wrong with the clutch or flywheel. do the flywheels and/or pressure plates crack and/or somehow become unbalanced. if this were anything major with the engine i would think the power would be alot lower than normal and there would be somekind of abnormal smoke (which there is none), like blown head gasket, burnt piston, bad valves
 

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you dont by any chance believe that it may be a fuel knock do you? I mean my 2000 with a hot rod on it carries on at idle and smooths? I definatley think you have clutch or tranny problems but maybe its just that your motor has lost some compression to allow for the fuel knock all at the same time. When you are at a stop and you bring it up to 2 grand and then rev it to 2500 does it knock or is it smoothed out?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yesterday i checked some things out. for sh**s and giggles i don't have a "53" block. the harmonic balancer looks fine. i took the oil filler cap off while it was running and nothing got louder. i had the truck idling for a while and was listening in different areas for the noise. i can hear it the best when under the truck by the very rear of engine and bell housing area. i also cracked open all injectors lines i could (#2 couldn't do with standard wrench). and the engine sounded the same for each cylinder i did. i have been driving around with module completely unplugged, truck starts fine, seems to have good power, no smoke at all, clutch pedal travel and feel are the same. the only difference is this morning i started it and it was like i could feel in the clutch pedal the same thing i am hearing. can feel it with pedal in or out. the vibration is definitly worse when module on high, however i still feel it without module. i am going to have the oil tested asap. by reading the other threads i have learned that when you start to up hp and do mods to diesels they do start to sound different. after the module upgrade, i didn't think about it sounding different, but i guess it will. my family is starting to think i am being way to picky, which i am guilty of most times, but when you know your truck, you know your truck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
more info... i thought it was fuel knock at first but now i don't know. its the combination of the noise and the vibration. the noise im hearing doesn't really get louder it just gets faster as i rev it up. i tried driving in 5 gear at about 2200 or so, let off the gas and let the r's come down slow. when i do that the noise gets alot quieter but i still feel the vibration in the stick. as much as i like to fix things right away, nothings perfect. maybe i just need to not pay attention to it and wait till something comes apart, or stops working (clutch).
 

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There should be an inspection access plate on the bottom of your bell housing. I would pull that and slowly rotate the engine, either with a flywheel tool or by using the harmonic balancer. While doing this, I would check the edge of the flywheel for anything abnormal i.e. cracks or slight warping. However I would assume if the edge was damaged you would notice some hard starting or funny sounds at the very least when cranking. Just a thought, good luck.
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks for the ideas, but my bell housing has no inspection plate anywhere. ist solid aluminum all the way around. there is only a small slit about 1/4 wide at the bottom. you really can't see anything.
 

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jschreff said:
thanks for the ideas, but my bell housing has no inspection plate anywhere. ist solid aluminum all the way around. there is only a small slit about 1/4 wide at the bottom. you really can't see anything.
Yeap... All 5 and 6 speed trans are that way... Your going to have to pull the trans out to check the clutch.

By reading everything you posted I'm going to say you got a failing clutch. All your noises are back in the bellhousing. The vibration is in the trans stick. It could be as simple as a failed pilot bearing or throwout bearing... Or some of the friction material has ripped off and now the clutch is out of balnce... (Seen this before) Which would cause the vibration...

In any case since there is some pretty good vibration I highly suggest you open up that bellhousing and inspect that clutch soon. Remember that vibration is beating the bearings and rear seal in the engine too!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thanks again for all the great info. it looks like i have a project ahead of me. a bad clutch would make the most sense. the guy i bought this truck from was the first owner, but all he did was tow a big fifth wheel camper for 55000 miles, it was not his daily driver. with all that towing and then my extra hp on top of the towing i do it makes sense. well in any case, i am still happy i did the upgrades that i did. i like the extra power from the injectors and the new vp seemed to give more also. i am still waiting on the quadzilla recon guage system so i can monitor my egt. i am curious now as to what they are. i will keep you guys posted on what i find. thanks again!
 

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My set up is really similar to yours. As for EGT's, When I switched over to the AFE I noticed a huge drop. Now they top out around 1400 with the drag comp on 5x5 and with RV275's and a FASS. I used to run a K&N which flows similar to a BHAF, but doesn't filter as well. With that my EGT's could hit 1600 no problem. So either way I think you are probably getting dangerously hot and gauges are necessary. So just be nice to it until they come.
Sean
 

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throw an ats 3 piece on that thing if you want to take them lower yet. with my 150's i cant get mine above 1300 with a trailer or a sled hooked to it.
 
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