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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for tips and tricks or some majic tool for getting aluminum unimounts free from steel hubs especially with flat tires.:gaah
 

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Don't know if...

I was just thinking. What if you jacked the axle up, put a wooden block under the flat tire/wheel, let it down some (To put weight on it) & SMACKED it on top w/ a sledge or tire hammer & a block of hard-wood, kind of in the direction it wants to go to help it along. GOOD LUCK with it!:bang
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks , we got them off but what a pain, inside tires on a 24 wheel Low bed, had to pry and hammer a lot , also had to cut a striped (in the hub) stud. They will be getting a liberal application of antiseeze when the new hub gets here
I think I will build some kind of puller (unlees somebody posts a majic trick), too old for swinging a 10# sledge hammer for half a day.
 

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I take it you are explaining the aluminum rim siezed onto the hub? We use to use the plastic shims it not only stops the sizing it also helps keep the wheels from coming loose when they are put back on, You have to grind the rim as flat as posible, and have the hub as clean as posible but it does help. Just a thought!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They were hung up on the centering points , the drum had a plastic seperator sheet, this trailer is pretty new , 2009, It took a 10 foot pipe and a big hammer to get them free, My Pete has aluminum hubs and wheels they come of fairly easily.
 

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They use to have some stuff for putting between aluminum frames and steel parts, Alumiplast or something like that it was like a putty and did not wash off. That is the best idea I have to contribute.
If you figure that would work you might want to remove and coat the rest before they really size on.
I put Neversize on all aluminum wheels to the hubs even on pick-ups. They also size on, I only used an 8 lbs hammer the 12 I thought would be overkill.
 

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For inside wheels I have a 5 foot steel bar with a slight flat bend.It fits between the wheel and the flange on the drum and also use the longest pipe I can find.Usually have to release the brake and spin the wheel,working it off a little at a time.For out side wheels make a flat plate to bolt to the axle bolts with a recess in the middle to hold the end of a porta-power .Wrap a chain around opposite hand holes,over the end of the porta-power and pump away.Sometimes also requires heat or hammer. Living in the northeast,I can tell you that never-seize will probably not work.I have used silicone gasket maker and it does work, with or without the center gasket.Newer wheels have a groove in the middle of the center to reduce surface area and some newer hubs have only three locating tabs.
 

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379-

There is one easy way to do it. Ran into the same problem on one of our Mack trucks with all alum. wheels. Wouldn't budge for nothin'. :damnit THEN, I remembered an old trick my dad told me about for stuck pistons in an engine.

The answer................. A can of Pepsi.

I spent 20 mins on the first set with a big azz sledge, and no luck. So, I grabbed 2 cans of regular Pepsi and put it in an old Windex bottle. Spray it all over where the steel and alum make contact. Soak it good. Go away for about 30 mins and come back. Grab the sledge and off they come pretty quick. The set I fought started moving after 2 well placed hits. :D

The acid in the pop softens the white crap preventing anything from going anywhere.

I put anti-seize on the hubs where the rim meets it as well. Not just the studs.
 

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Tears ago I watched a guy use LY and Parons, how ever they spell it, steak sauce, and it eats rust. Now Pepsi I will definitely try that.
 

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It's the damnest thing, but it worked. :D And to think, we drink that stuff........... LOL
 
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