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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
WHAT NEXT?! This was not supposed to be a project truck!

O/K, 1997 powerstroke, automatic, 180k miles. No modes except for a 3 position chip, but only running on the "stock tune" recently because it seems to like that better in the cold weather.

Started fine this afternoon, went to work, no problem. Started fine leaving work, ran fine down the highway, then started missing, just a little. It did that a couple times, but I made it to the off ramp. It started missing more noticeably while merging onto the cross road, so I quickly ducked into a parking lot, where the truck finally died. Cranks and cranks but no fire no start. On one attempt, I cranked it, and turned the key to off position, but the starter kept cranking! It did this for about 10 seconds! I even took the key out, put it back in, turned ignition to run, then back off, and then it shut off! During all that, it never did even sputter or try to start.

Batteries are brand new, oil change 1000 miles ago, fresh diesel, with cetane additive in both tanks.

I think it has the old cam position sensor,, but not sure. When I had it checked out after buying, the mechanic said the hpop was leaking a little, and would likely need replaced soon. Does a leaking HPOP absolutely mean a failing HPOP?
:gaah

I have been running the truck only about twice a week for the past 3 months, and it has not given me any reason to doubt,,, except for when the starter quit working...

Today was warmer than usual, and the truck actually warmed MORE than usual today.

I am guessing, HPOP,,, cam position sensor, other fuel pump?

I did not notice if tach needle moved while cranking,, or if oil pressure needle moved while cranking.
 

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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Update: I called my friend who works for a shop in gunnison. He put the owner on the line, and I was walked through the process of draining water from the bowl filter, and then he figured that the starter solenoid was bad because it just wanted to keep cranking even with key out. It was getting fuel because a bunch dumped out when I cranked and had the filter drain open.

Then I had a theory of my own. Its seldome that 2 separate problems, unrelated just pop up at the same time. I figured that if the solenoid was shorting out, then it might be starving the injectors for voltage. So, I bought a solenoid, put it on, said a little prayer, and wala. It started right up. Actually seems to be running better than ever, or mabey its just the warm weather. Perhaps it was water in the filter?

I have no idea. If anybody can shed some light on this, please do. I would like to intercept any hidden problem that may reappear. I need this truck to go long miles. If I cant trust it,, then its gotta go.
 

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Super Moderator
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4,247 Posts
I think you found two problems, water in the fuel and the starter solenoid. You are right that they are most likely not related but the starter dragging might very well have caused the stalling and no-start.

If you want reliable, ditch the tooner, no matter the truck or engine brand.
 

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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Going to take the truck in to have a check up. What all should I ask to be checked? "buzz test??"
 

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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I had a guy come over and hook up his lap top with the Auto Enginuity program for ford. He did an injector buzz, engine off test,, engine on test, scan for codes...

Nothing except a momentary fault code for exhaust pressure sensor. That code cleared up with the engine on test.


Question: Will a cam position sensor give a cel code if it has not quite gone out? I am told they are temperature sensitive, and that it may fail with a warm engine, but could work while its cold?
 

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Senior Member
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535 Posts
usually they will, mine will throw the code long before it actually starts to miss
 

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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Going to replace icp sensor, cam position sensor, and exhaust back pressure sensor.

All harnesses and plugs looked fine under the hood. I still need to do the ohm test on glow plug harness, but as far as I can tell those are fine.
 

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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
??!!??

O/K, so it did it again this morning. Admittedly, its the coldest day in wester co in all winter so far. My block heater is burnt out too...So, I went to start, it tried real hard, but just would not catch. I tried too many times??? The starter circuit did its short circuit thing,, and the starter kept cranking even after I removed the key. Thankfully, I have a wrench in hand and it was a quick job to disconnect the batteries. Really do not know what to do. Going to replace the starter solenoid again, and probably just sell this POS. Will most likely be a GREAT truck for somebody else. I just do not have the $$ or garage space to figure it out.
 

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Super Moderator
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4,247 Posts
There is NO code for for a failing CPS, that is no code that says "CPS" fault etc. Generally the code you get with a failing CPS is "ICP above desired with engine off" or something close to that.

Failure to start in the cold can be GPR issues or even a weak cell in one of the two batteries.

The starter staying on is most commonly a sticking or mis-adjusted ignition switch, but the starter relay can cause it as well as simply a bad starter solenoid.
 

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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Nice warm day so I busted out the tools and got busy. Replaced starter with new NOT REMAN starter from checkers, another new solenoid, and now charging the 3 month old(NEW) batteries. Going to research replacing the ignition switch, and get a cost for glow plug relay. Truck SHOULD start today. Its warm out, and all the basics will be covered.
 

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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have a feeling that this truck suffers from plain ole age deterioration. I forked out 220 bucks for a new mitsubishi starter,, and another 30 for solenoid,, then I charged the batteries. Sure enough,, fires right up. Cranks MUCH quicker than before. I think stuff is wearing out,, and not just dead failing. Very frustrating! Very hard to diagnose. Going to be hard to trust it on a long haul. Who knows whats going to "intermittently fail" next. Wish I had another 40g on top of it and I would just buy a nice new duramax! Going to check charging system next,, then glow plug circuit...

It runs for now!!! somebody come and buy it!
 

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Tyler
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63 Posts
so dont you think it would have been cheaper to bring it to the dealer to get it diagnosed than just throwing all that money at it? i mean if your just guessing and replacing what "could" be wrong you could have already paid for the diag and done the proper fix the first time.
 

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Junior Member
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
No! All I have into it is a 70 dollar diagnostic, 220 for a new starter and 60 for a pair of solinoids. I still don't know why it sputtered and died in the first place. Every body I asked around locally said most likely water in the bowl. Surely the dealer would have charged twice that.
 
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