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LLROT
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I apologize in advance for maybe rethreading some of these questions. I cannot search at work because the "make sure you're human" images don't appear.

Only on cold mornings, 40 and below, there is white smoke on startup. It appears white, not white/blue, at least as far as I can tell. Once warm it is gone. The startup is a little elongated warm or cold.

My steering and brake booster? seem to be 'connected' in that they are making a lot of noise. When I am turning and hitting the brakes especially, there is a loud whirring sound. My brakes seem to not be as good as they were 6 months ago either. Full pads and new rotors.

I was also wondering if anyone knew about good diesel shops in Mobile, AL.

Thank you gentlemen.
 

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Old Fart
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889 Posts
On the noisy booster, check your power steering reservoir and make sure it is full. The power steering runs both the brakes and the steering.
 

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LLROT
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
could it be that the fluid is dirty? I don't know much about power steering and brake boosters. I also noticed some ps fluid outside the cap, is it time for a new reservoir, pump, or both?
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
Those "hydroboost" systems run hot and deteriorate the fluid. I'd change the fluid and check the pressure output of the pump.
 

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LLROT
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
is there a mod for that or just simply a regulatory fluid change?
 

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LLROT
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
also my trans temp gauge nevwer moves. When I turn the key to on, it goes about half way, and after driving 20 min or 6 hours without shutting off, it doesn't change. How do I fix this?
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
is there a mod for that or just simply a regulatory fluid change?
I change both power steering, and transmission fluids ever two years no matter the mileage as habit. If your fluid smells burnt, or is very dark, (no matter the medium) it would be best to change.
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
also my trans temp gauge nevwer moves. When I turn the key to on, it goes about half way, and after driving 20 min or 6 hours without shutting off, it doesn't change. How do I fix this?
I don't know about your truck but most transmissions which have a temperature monitor have a temp sensor incorporated in the case. This, the gauge, or the interconnection wiring could be a fault. If the gauge is moving when the keyswitch is moved to the "on" position, the system is seeing voltage, but they usually cycle full sweep before settling down to represent the temperature reading.
 

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LLROT
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It's about 2 quarts right? and what's the best way to drain/refill?
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
It's about 2 quarts right? and what's the best way to drain/refill?
I like to take the return line loose from either the steering gear, or the pump unit itself and hang it down to a low point into a drain pan after elevating the front tires clear of the floor and placing the truck on jack stands. Then remove the fill cap of the reservoir, and slowly cycle the steering gear from full left to right, (engine off) to purge the fluid. Some hydroboost systems have a filter in the reservoir but I don't think yours does and this should be changed if present. After drained, replace hose, and fill with the correct fluid. Start the engine and complete the fill after cycling the steering gear full left and right a few times to purge air in the system. Check and top off the fluid level after about 1/2 hour of run time to ensure it's full.
 

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LLROT
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
You are extremely helpful Backslap. I really appreciate it. I need to replace my steering gear as well. Should I do that prior to fluid replacement?

Any idea on my smoking problem?
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
You are extremely helpful Backslap. I really appreciate it. I need to replace my steering gear as well. Should I do that prior to fluid replacement?

Any idea on my smoking problem?
If the steering gear is suspect or known defective I would get that repaired at the same time myself. Those were inherently weak, (IMO) and wore quite fast in comparison to others. This is especially true with oversized tires mounted. Used to see quite a few come in the shop with sheared off pitman shafts from chuck holes in the roadway during the winter months.
 

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LLROT
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Is it easy to DIY or should I get someone else to do it? I have a lot of tools but not all and it looks to be a pita
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
I'd look at glow plugs as to the smoking issue which appears to be minor at this point. White smoke when cold is most times unburnt or incomplete combusted fuel.

A steering gear is straight forward to changing and should be set up correctly from the vendor. It's a lot easier to remove the pitman arm with a puller prior to removing it from the chassis as it's a bit bulky. Not really heavy just off center when you are trying to wrestle it off it's mounting point. The replacement gear will either have an imperfect spline, or keyway to ensure the pitman arm will only install one way also.
 

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LLROT
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31 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
how immediate should I change these out? the gear box and fluid
 

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Aimless Wanderer
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929 Posts
I really can't answer but the generic statement would be the "sooner the better". A bad steering gear can compromise safety for both yourself and others, and accelerates wear and tear on other working parts of the steering geometry. If it's known and proven defective, it needs replaced before catastophic failure has a time and place to occur.
 

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Junior Member
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17 Posts
There is a youtube video on changing the fluid in your power steering pump. I would change the fluid first to see if that helps the whinning noise. It would be the simplest solution.

I have read on other threads that the dash transmission gauge and sensor. It is just that, a sensor. Not a true temp gauge. I had a separate temp gauge installed on my 7.3L PSD, which gives you an accurate reading. If you have not installed a EGT gauge, that would be helpful as well.

Just some thoughts.
 
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