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Junior Member
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well i JUST put NEW glow plugs in my truck 2 weeks ago and i put a push button in the cab for them. It has been starting great i have not even been plugging the truck in at all. So last night the truck would not start so i plugged it in and it started today. Checked the glow plugs and they are ALL BAD.... i only hold the push button for 13 seconds the first time i start it a day. I put the push button in so i knew if the glow plugs would stick. I just bought new glow plugs last month and the relay burnt them all up so that's why i put in the push button, I EVEN put a light on the dash so i know any time the glow plugs were on, so i can see anytime they stick and the light never came on any time, besides when i was holding it to start. Can anybody please help me i am very very discouraged and them glow plugs are to much money to be putting in 3 times a dern month.
 

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TDG MAFIA
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730 Posts
First off What brand Glow plugs did you buy for it? This is very important. If you buy cheap ones most likely there burnt out and hopefully the tips are not swollen because if they are swollen you may need to remove the heads if the tip breaks. This is why you should only buy Motorcraft brand glow plugs, many many people have had nothing but problems with other brands. Let me know what brand plugs you used, Motorcraft plugs can be had for $80 give or take a bit online. Also a little more information on your truck as there are two different type of glow plug systems out there.
 

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Junior Member
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I put in Delphi plugs. And i am not sure what system the truck is. The truck is a 1993 f250 turbo. But really they should not have all went bad at the same time, sure one or two but not all of them. I think some went bad the day before because the truck did not start up right away, but now they are all bad because the truck will not start at all. Thanks for the help.
 

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TDG MAFIA
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730 Posts
Have you tested the plugs to verify there bad, there bad or you have a wiring problem, or your controller is possibly bad. Have you messed with the controller/solenoid at the bad side of the motor, wait your turboed so it will most likely be on your passenger side valve cover? Your lucky like me, your running the solid state glow plug controller with a spade terminal for the ned of the glow plugs. Your truck may not be starting because of other reasons not related to the glow plugs. We need to narrow down what could possibly be making your truck not start. If it were me I would remove all 8 of the plugs you have and buy genuine Motorcraft glow plugs, just to make future problems go away. All 8 may of went bad though if somehow your controller went bad and made all 8 stick on the on position but not likely.

When cranking are you seeing any smoke out of the tailpipe?

Is your wait to start light coming on? How long?

When your wait to start light goes out do you see a rise in your voltage at the gauge?

Answer those questions so we can help figure out what type of problem your experiencing.
 

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Junior Member
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well the controller was sticking last time around and it burned up all the glow plugs. So this time instead of buying a new controller I just put in a push button so it could not stick or anything and I put in the light so I could see anytime the glow plugs are on. I have not taken any glow plugs out but I know it is the glow plugs. It starts right up when it is plugged in, and it is doing the same thing it was when the plugs were bad before. I pulled off two of the wires going to the plugs and I am not reading that the plugs were good on the meter. Yes the truck does smoke when you crank it but it is turned up a little. I don't know if that makes any difference or not. I don't have a wait to start light anymore because of the new push button. I am getting about 11 volts to the glow plugs. Thanks so much for trying to help me out here.
 

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TDG MAFIA
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730 Posts
Well the smoke out the tail pipe tells me its not a fuel problem, and Im agreeing with you now that it is defiantly a glow plug problem. Have you used a test light also? Take the test light and hook it to the hot side of battery and unhook the plug on top of the glow plug and use the test light and touch the tip, try that with all 8 and if they light up there good.

Are you sure you didn't accidentally hook the wires up backwards to your switch? Verify and make sure there correct. If its all ok Id say its because of the brand plugs you used. Many many people have had nightmare with anything other than motorcraft plugs.

Can you get someone to come help you with a test light. Use the test light on the glow plug wires and have someone hit the button or switch and verify if there is power getting to the glow plugs.

Did you do away completely with the solenoid/controller or are wires still hooked up?

How do you have your push button setup wired?
 

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Junior Member
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
All the glow plugs are bad when we checked them with the test light. Every thing seems to be right with the wiring. Yes I did away with all the controller deal, it is all manual. So I don't know I guess I will get new glow plugs and try them but it is hard for me to believe all the glow plugs just went bad at pretty much the same time... Is beru glow plugs better then Motorcraft plugs?
 

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TDG MAFIA
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730 Posts
Beru and Motorcraft plugs are the same.

There are only two ways, one its because you used non motorcraft/beru plugs that or something in the wiring was wrong.
 

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TDG MAFIA
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Alright and you said that when you push the button your getting power to the plugs correct?

Im not a wiring buff, but did get this for you even though you completely bypassed the controller, but should give you a bit more information.

http://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm
 

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Senior Member
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5,365 Posts
if you hadnt said the GPR was by-passed i'd have said you have a bad relay
or one thats STICKING <on> and burning out the glow plugs.

i dont know your gp's but i know on my old mercedes, i can pull them or disconnect
'em from the wiring harness and jumper them w/ a test light to determine if
theyre working or not....if i have to, i can pull 'em and jumper them to a battery
and watch 'em VISUALLY glow, for confirmation that theyre working.

I would temporarily take the GPR outta the circuit and jumper 'em direct jsut
to eliminate the GPR as part of the problem.
 
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TDG MAFIA
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730 Posts
I do believe he already did bypass the controller entirely, if im not mistaken. IDI are bad about burning out glow plugs other than Motorcraft.

Yes he can test light the plugs with them still in the motor, just has to take the wire connector off then put the alligator clip of the test light to the positive side then touch the tip of each glow plug. If it lights the plug is good, check all 8, one bad plug can mess the whole system up.

With the solid state glow plug system like he originally had, the solenoid 9 times out of 10 will fail in the off position, he must of been the other 1.
 

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Junior Member
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yes we did away with the glow plug relay so there was no way for them to burn up or stick. It's just a push button wired to a solenoid, It's all manual. So why did they all burn up, i dont know?? I guess i will get better glow plugs and see if that does anything. Thanks for all the help guys!
 

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TDG MAFIA
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730 Posts
Have you checked your timing? Having your timing way to far advanced will also burn up your plugs, thats not likely your problem but still wanted to throw that out there.

I think if you buy good plugs you will be fine, you should only need to glow them for 10 seconds.
 

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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah a nother guy said something about the timing. So i will look in to that too. Thanks for all the help Cincinnati Guy!
 

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Super Moderator
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4,247 Posts
Yes we did away with the glow plug relay so there was no way for them to burn up or stick. It's just a push button wired to a solenoid, It's all manual. So why did they all burn up, i dont know?? I guess i will get better glow plugs and see if that does anything. Thanks for all the help guys!
13 seonds is a LONG time to leave 6V GPs in at 100%, even if it's COLD.

The factory GP controller will activate the GPs for a time (temperature dependant) then CYCLE them on and off to prevent failure from overheating the GPs and preserve battery power.

Anything but OEM (BERU, Motorcraft, Internationl) GPs almost garauntees repeat and rapid failures.
 
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Senior Member
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398 Posts
11V is too high for OEM-type plugs, which are meant to see a max of about 9V. If you're going to use a pushbutton you need constant-duty plugs like Wellman 088s. Pensacola Fuel Injection has them for about $60+shipping per set of 8. You'll need to put spade connectors on the plug wires instead of the stock bullets.
 

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Super Moderator
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4,247 Posts
11V is too high for OEM-type plugs, which are meant to see a max of about 9V. If you're going to use a pushbutton you need constant-duty plugs like Wellman 088s.
That's not true, not at all, well *maybe* for aftermarket "will fit" types it is but NOT for OEM GPs.

There are two GP systems in general, 12V and 6V. 12V are "slow start" with on times of 12-20s and longer in extreme cases; the 6V systems are "fast start" with typical initial on-times of 6-12s which is temperature dependant. In most "fast start" systems, the GPs are initially on continiously for the 6-12s then cycled on and off (1s on, 1s off) for some additional time which can include "after start".

The simple facts are that 6V GPs heat up four times faster (apx) than 12V GPs in the same engine but you MUST have good control of on time (duty cycle) compared to temperature to avoid burning them up. This is why 12V GPs were the only ones used until the early 80's when the technology was reliable enough to use the 6V "fast start" systems.

Pensacola Fuel Injection has them for about $60+shipping per set of 8. You'll need to put spade connectors on the plug wires instead of the stock bullets.
So you are suggesting that the OP use old technology aftermarket will-fit with modification GPs instead of fixing the excellant system the truck was built with?????
 
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