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P1378. After new atlas 40 FICM tune truck threw this code. I cleared it and it's hasn't come back. But after searching that code on the web it's related to FICM low voltage. Tonight I was bleeding air out of radiator (per Mishimoto suggestion, see other post for story) and noticed my battery volts at idle is 11.3-11.6. Driving its 13.1-13.4. Am I correct this is low? Batteries we're put in in 2010 at 70k. That's when FICM was replaced by ford. Are they shot? On a positive note after a 30 mile test drive ECT mostly ran 196-200. Only hit 204 when driving up the hill home. Seemed to help a bit. Thanks guys, hope everyone is doing well.
 

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I'd pull the alternator and have it tested. Bet its bad.
 
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Thinking DC power alternator. Not sure on size 185,250, or 300 amp. Funny story. Was gonna upgrade alternator this past round of mods. Decided to do radiator instead... Any experience with alternator brands? What does OEM alternator put out?
 

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you can get the bigger ford one which states 140amp it is usually on the dual alternator trucks but it bolts up and plugs in just find on a single alternator truck. have one on my brothers 06 f350.
 
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I think the single OEM is like 110. I wish I would have done the DC Power one now but $300 wasnt in the budget. I did a parts store rebuild and seems ok for now but I watch is closely. I also have an onboard trickle charger since I was (hopefully we are done) plowing snow just about every darn day. The trickle would top off the charge since I dont like to let it sit and idle just to recharge after plowing.

Since Irish mentioned it I think one I picked up at a recycler may have been a 140 because it looked different but bolted up. The bearings were going so I swapped it in and kinda wish I hadn't now.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Just ordered 185amp DC power alternator. What are you guys using for batteries? Anyone using DECA?
 

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I had the exact symptoms you are having. The truck did not start after sitting for a day.
I could recharge the batteries and it would start easily again. The dome light would stay on permanently. I tried replacing all the relays one at a time, but the dome light still stayed on.
I then took it to the dealer, who diagnosed it to a short in the gauge cluster. The reason I bring this up is because I learned that the battery voltage can get low if you have a small short if you leave it overnight or for a couple of days. I thought I had a bad alternator but after fixing the short, the batteries are able to start the truck without any problem. I bought a DC power 185 amp alternator, but did not install it and since the short was fixed I have no need to replace the alternator.

I would recommend having both your batteries and alternator tested...if both test out OK, look for a power drain.

The short in mine was intermittent for such a long time and the truck started fine if I drove it every day. When I started leaving it sit for 2 or more days is when it failed to start...it would either crank slowly and then click, click, click...or just click, click, click.
 
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busted could you be more specific as to where in the instrument cluster the short was? I have been chasing something similar for nearly 5 years. No real obvious parasitic drain, intermittent, sometimes it will start after 3-5 days, sometimes not :)
 

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Sorry, Nitrogen,

I can't tell you any more than it was in the gauge cluster. The reason is because I diagnosed it down to the gauge cluster and then took it into the dealer. The dealer then repeated the same troubleshooting and confirmed it to be in the cluster. It turns out the dealer doesn't trouble-shoot any further than the gauge cluster, they replace the entire unit with a rebuilt and send the core for rebuilding. I paid about $650 for this work. You can get the same work done for cheaper by sending your cluster to Auto-Nation (the old Tousley Ford). I called them after I agreed to have the dealer fix mine and they said they would sell me a rebuilt unit for something in the range of $350 (can't remember the exact number). They will need to reprogram the cluster with the current mileage of your vehicle and if you have a 'chipped' key they will need you to send them both keys to complete the programming operation. I think there is a fee for this service as well. Doing it this way is cheaper than the way I did it, but you will need to remove the cluster and re-install it, which was beyond what I wanted to attempt. I was afraid I would break something or do a poor job of installing it.

I share your frustration. My symptoms started about 6 years ago. First, the speedo did not return to zero. Then, next the security system would trigger spuriously. At that point, I could have taken in for trouble-shooting, but I was afraid the dealer would tell me to replace the security system, then something else, and so on until I had a huge bill and no satisfaction. So, I just started checking things like the door switches, the under the hood light, and all the relays. In the end I had 2 other symptoms, the dome light stayed on permanently and then, when I finally took it into the dealer the last symptom showed up while I was explaining the problem to the service manager...the door chimed whenever I opened the driver door.
At this point I'm very happy to have all these symptoms fixed, including the security system for a total of $1250. It all works perfectly now and I don't have to worry about the batteries discharging after leaving the vehicle for 2 days. The short in the gauge cluster ended up costing about $650 and they replaced the timer spring for about $550. I don't know what a timer spring is, but the service tech told me is was the reason the chime came on when the driver door was opened.
 
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