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Discussion Starter #1
2005 puma 25' battery dies any where from 1 to 2 weeks just sitting not plugged in,the dealer I bought it from new said it was normal,but when I put a multi-meter on it to check the amp draw,the co2 detector was drawing 4.73 amps but the fuse is a 3 amp that was the only thing I could find that was out of wack.finally got fed up with it and put a power shut off switch at the battery,got tired of the dealer giving me the run around.any suggestions?
 

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Put a solar charging cell on it if its not covered. Or leave it plugged in all the time if able. the battery disconnect is a good solution to cut everything off while not in use though.
 

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You'd need at LEAST a 200W solar cell to keep up with a 24x7 draw of 60W.

There is NO WAY a CO detector should draw that kind of current, ours are 9V batteries that last about 6 months.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
should I start prossess of elimination, disconnect co2 monitor,see if battery holds? The dealer told me the converter always draws current to kill the battery,I don't see how if all the lights and accesseries are off.
 

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SLAPS President
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2005 puma 25' battery dies any where from 1 to 2 weeks just sitting not plugged in,the dealer I bought it from new said it was normal......
That is horse manure...... My camper sat unplugged from the end of October until three days before Christmas and I still had battery power (and yes, I have a CO detector as well as LP detector which is wired into the camper).... Sounds to me like a lazy dealer....
 

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what other things are plugged in ? digital clocks dont drawl much, nor do tv/vcr/radio
memory but they can add up...especially if some of these things are powered by a
connected dc to ac invertor.

its sounds obvious but what about night lights, crawl space lighting or
battery operated deviced that are plugged into ac outlets (dust busters etc)...
or flashlight chargers...again i know they dont necessarily run off of 12v battery
supply but its something to check.
 

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Inline Junky!
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Check your ref. Open the freezer door and look at the top on the jamb. Some have a defrost mode and there is a switch in the jamb to turn it on and off. It has about a 3 amp draw and will easy kill your battery in a week!
 

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Another member pointed out an inverter.

IF these items run off an inverter, that's a BIG NO-NO!

At best and inverter is about 60% efficient under low loads and maybe, maybe 85% under heavy loads, so if you have a 25W load it turns into a 25/0.6 = 42W draw (damnear 3.5A)!

Every load in an RV, boat or rustic cabin should be a 12V device and NOT run thru an inverter, they simply waste too much energy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
what other things are plugged in ? digital clocks dont drawl much, nor do tv/vcr/radio
memory but they can add up...especially if some of these things are powered by a
connected dc to ac invertor.

its sounds obvious but what about night lights, crawl space lighting or
battery operated deviced that are plugged into ac outlets (dust busters etc)...
or flashlight chargers...again i know they dont necessarily run off of 12v battery
supply but its something to check.
The only things that is on 12v DC is the built in radio,CO2 sensor,fresh H2O tank pump,lights,and fans for the heater blower and bathroom vent,slide out and jacks.I made sure and double checked that everything is off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Check your ref. Open the freezer door and look at the top on the jamb. Some have a defrost mode and there is a switch in the jamb to turn it on and off. It has about a 3 amp draw and will easy kill your battery in a week!
no defrost switch,the fridge only runs on AC or propane no DC
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Another member pointed out an inverter.

IF these items run off an inverter, that's a BIG NO-NO!

At best and inverter is about 60% efficient under low loads and maybe, maybe 85% under heavy loads, so if you have a 25W load it turns into a 25/0.6 = 42W draw (damnear 3.5A)!

Every load in an RV, boat or rustic cabin should be a 12V device and NOT run thru an inverter, they simply waste too much energy.
the inverter is only being used when plugged in to AC,it converts the AC to DC,to charge battery and run the accessories that is DC,the problem I am having,when I store the camper in between trips,the camper sits thier with everything turned off,the inverter isn't even being used,No AC hook up where I store the camper.
 

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sledpuller can prolly verify this but I was told by several full time RVers and friends but it is not recommended to leave plugged in if you are not using it? I know we fried a interstate battery (plugged in and sitting for 6 six months). Problem fixed..new optima and only plug it in when using it on a regular basis. Just checked it the other day and still had juice in the battery and its been sitting since the end of october. Anyhow could your battery be bad?
Sledpuller,
is it true that sitting plugged in all the time can over charge the battery and fry it or did someone dump a pile of manure on me and I believed them? it seems to be fine with the new battery? I know the dealer (who I will not name as Im am not a fan of but it beat driving 200 miles to get this rig) just blamed it on a bad battery and said that I could get a new one from them for free just like came in it but It was only 8 months old when it fried. So what the hey I put an optima in it.
 

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Inline Junky!
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I would say it depends more on the quality of the product. I see it like this. People who have their camper on a permanent site leave them plugged in for 8 months out of the year. But I’ve noticed a lot of them end up taking the batteries off. You can over charge a battery. It will boil and break down the lead plates and lose the bond made between the acid and the lead. A converter in most campers will put out 13.55 +/- .10 volts DC and will support 30amps. This isn't a truly strong charge but it’s not weak. In my shop I would never tell someone they killed their battery from leaving the unit plugged in all the time. The right way to maintain a battery is with a trickle charger that only kicks on when a voltage drop is sensed. I will try and remember to run this by my battery rep (deka) tomorrow when he comes in. I hope this was useful and not confusing!
 

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I would say it depends more on the quality of the product. I see it like this. People who have their camper on a permanent site leave them plugged in for 8 months out of the year. But I’ve noticed a lot of them end up taking the batteries off. You can over charge a battery. It will boil and break down the lead plates and lose the bond made between the acid and the lead. A converter in most campers will put out 13.55 +/- .10 volts DC and will support 30amps. This isn't a truly strong charge but it’s not weak. In my shop I would never tell someone they killed their battery from leaving the unit plugged in all the time. The right way to maintain a battery is with a trickle charger that only kicks on when a voltage drop is sensed. I will try and remember to run this by my battery rep (deka) tomorrow when he comes in. I hope this was useful and not confusing!
That is exactly what happened. I myself think the cheap batt. was more the prob. With the optima the sideout and landing gear (fifthwheel) run way more smoothly than they did brand new with the interstate. Thanks man. What do you guys recommend to your customers about storage? Do you need brand info etc. Like I said the local dealer isnt real friendly or helpful. guess that why this place is here :thumbsup also is there a trickle charge you recommend for use during storage?
 

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There is a LOT of information on batteries and chargers on homepower.com

If your gas detector is drawing over .040 A - I would check others with the same meter. They make it difficult to cut the power to the gas detector on purpose.

My solution would be small solar panel to the battery in addition to the disconnect switch that you have.

Small to keep from boiling the battery dry, voltage for full charge is different from a maint charge. Batteries that set lose capacity from sulphation, and there is now a de-sulphation circuit.

keydl
 
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