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Hotsauce2138
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Discussion Starter #1
what would be the best turbo for my truck while keeping stock injectors. it would be nice to get bigger injectors but the mpg wouldnt be nice. so what would be the best performing for my truck while not having to worry about blowing head gaskets and such, i still want it to be dependable.
:thanks: guys
 

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go with either the Tn or BB the bbwillhave less lagand more whistle. you can add injectors with out a loss in MPG just go with single shot injectors. stage 1 or 2 should be fine with out needing a head gasket
 

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Like Jeremy said, TN or GTP-38r... Doesnt matter what turbo you put on there, you will not build enough boost to hurt the heads without more fuel.
 

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Hotsauce2138
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Discussion Starter #4
ok thnx guys! jeremy can you pm me a price on those two, please?

wat kind of numbers (boost) will i see with those turbos?
 

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If you don't add any more fuel than you already have, you could actually see less boost, becuase it's a larger turbo than stock. If you are going to stick w/ stock injectors the BB should have faster spool up, but the TN model has some new exhaust housing to play w/ so that gives you some flexibility. A set of injectors doesn't mean that you will get less fuel economy, if you can keep your foot out of the go pedal the tuning can be done to where your fuel economy won't really change. Then when you ask for more fuel you have it. You might want to consider a van turbo or just an ATS ported housing. Do you feel you are making to much boost currenlty, or just time to upgrade? Just somethings to think about before you spend your money.

Dave
 

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I'd look at the TN unit with a .84 custom housing. It will spool faster than a Garrett, and not lag. CSIPSD is testing one now.

TN unit with polished compressor cover, with .84 housing.

Boost with the .84 and stock injs, a hot chip, should push 30+. The TN with a 1.00 would be in the 26 range.
 

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Hotsauce2138
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Discussion Starter #7
d2hp and bbunting
it spools up ok, it hits 28-29 then drops to 20-21 and stays ther even though im still on the gas pedal. then after a couple of seconds it will spool back up to 28 then goes back down to 20. so i would like to see it keep on spooling instead of it spooling up then defueling then spooling up again.
am i experiencing turbo surge or lag? wil you guys please fill me in on what is going on.

thnx guys!
 

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Your truck is defueling cause of overboost unless you have a fooler on there or valve or blocker.Just a WAG.
 

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You would be pretty aware if it was surging (strange noises, and the truck just seems to kind of stall at that power level and not really pull anymore). Seems to usually start around 1800 rpm. Do you get a check engine light coming on when you make 28 lbs of boost, if so you need something to fool the map into thinking it is only seeing up tp 24 lbs or so. Hope this helps, let me know if you have more questions.

Dave
 

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bbunting said:
I'd look at the TN unit with a .84 custom housing. It will spool faster than a Garrett, and not lag. CSIPSD is testing one now.
From what he was saying on another forum it sounds like his drive pressure is a little on the high side with his new housing. I don't know if he's got stock injectors or not but it sounds like that might be a great housing for stock injectors or maybe even stock programing.
 

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gtspowerstroke said:
From what he was saying on another forum it sounds like his drive pressure is a little on the high side with his new housing. I don't know if he's got stock injectors or not but it sounds like that might be a great housing for stock injectors or maybe even stock programing.
His sig says Swamps, not sure on the size.

01 F-250 SC PSD, 90,000m, 11 Isspro and Autometer Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg, GTP-38r BB TURBO(Out for now...back at Garret) Running a Turbonetic no surge turbo!!! Thanks Brian BWD, Swamps Injectors Water injection, Tadds tune's, SP diesel brake and TC controller, MBRP 4" dual's, 4" exhaust cutout, Aero, 6" tip's, 100 axl tank, 4" Revtek lift, 37-14.50-17 TOYO AT's 363hp and 890tq...
 

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His sig on the other site didn't say that he had anything for injectors so I wasn't sure but I thought he had some kind of injectors.
 

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Running somewhat bigger then 175's singles. Drive pressures are not bad, at 10-12#'s boost I am at 12-14#'s drive pressure with the .84 housing. But the spool is much quicker. At 25-28#'s I am seeing about 35-40#'s drive pressure, still not bad at all. TN turbo is one tough sucker, the 1 to 1 housing I could at times see more boost then drive in the 10-12 range... funny watching that!
 

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CSIPSD said:
Running somewhat bigger then 175's singles. Drive pressures are not bad, at 10-12#'s boost I am at 12-14#'s drive pressure with the .84 housing. But the spool is much quicker. At 25-28#'s I am seeing about 35-40#'s drive pressure, still not bad at all. TN turbo is one tough sucker, the 1 to 1 housing I could at times see more boost then drive in the 10-12 range... funny watching that!

Joe

those numbers are the same if not better than the Garrett BB unit for drive pressures. Anything under 1.5-1 is considered good.

At what RPM are you starting to see boost? What altitude are you at?
 

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Home is 3400 feet. boost comes on to 10# right about 1800-1900 rpms.
 

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I generally like to shoot for 1.2:1 or less. The stock turbo on the '94-'97s for example you get much over that and it's getting so far out of it's map and spinning so much more to make the same amount of boost you are looking at toasted thrust bushings. A lot of it depends on the set up and your desired outcome. If you want instant spool up then a smaller turbo/housing is going to be fine if you aren't so worried about top end power. However if you are more concerned with top end power then a larger more laggy turbo/housing is better. If you don't do a lot of top end WOP driving or screwing around then the smaller housing will be fine but don't expect it to work good or live long if you decide you need to beat that Honda next to you every day on your way to work. And don't kid yourself by saying you don't care about top end so much as spool up and go with the smaller housing to all the dyno events and hope to get top hp honnors and go out and race people every time you get a chance.
 

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I seem to be hitting the same max boost numbers?
 

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That's because you are spinning the turbo faster but the wheel is just out of it's efficiency range so it's not makeing more boost just super heating the air. If you'd hook your waste gate back up so that the system is working properly that smaller housing just might work pretty good. But with the way you have it you're just creating more problems with it than your'e solving. You have a percieved increase in performance only because it spools faster but you're cutting it down on the mid and top end because of the bottle neck of the smaller housing. If you would hook the waste gate back up you would have that quicker spool up off the bottom but would be relieving the excess pressures in the mid to top end giving you better overall performance and lower EGTs. Of all the money you blew on gauges so you could feel like an fighter pilot the money spent on your drive pressure gauge was money well spent. But if you can't learn to read it and tune by it, it was as big of a waste of money as your redundant oil pressure, volt meter and clock gauges.
 

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gtspowerstroke said:
That's because you are spinning the turbo faster but the wheel is just out of it's efficiency range so it's not makeing more boost just super heating the air. If you'd hook your waste gate back up so that the system is working properly that smaller housing just might work pretty good. But with the way you have it you're just creating more problems with it than your'e solving. You have a percieved increase in performance only because it spools faster but you're cutting it down on the mid and top end because of the bottle neck of the smaller housing. If you would hook the waste gate back up you would have that quicker spool up off the bottom but would be relieving the excess pressures in the mid to top end giving you better overall performance and lower EGTs. Of all the money you blew on gauges so you could feel like an fighter pilot the money spent on your drive pressure gauge was money well spent. But if you can't learn to read it and tune by it, it was as big of a waste of money as your redundant oil pressure, volt meter and clock gauges.
Now this is the kind of information I have been looking for. My truck in my sig. is a racecar tow vehicle. I have been thinking of doing a turbo upgrade but the cost of it is what is scaring me. I will not be planning on doing any type of racing with it so top end power isn't an issue, I just don't want the egt to skyrocket from back pressure if I do end up PLAYING once in a while.
With the stock trubo the lag isn't too bad but I would like to improve upon it along with cooling down egt while towing in the 2000 to 2500 RPM range. Of course some more power in that range would be nice also.

My question for everyone is what would be my best option for a turbo?

Also in refernce to your above post would I be better off just putting on a ATS 1.0 wastegated housing on my stock turbo? I would assume this would make spool up quicker but not a big change in power or egt.
 

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gtspowerstroke said:
That's because you are spinning the turbo faster but the wheel is just out of it's efficiency range so it's not makeing more boost just super heating the air. If you'd hook your waste gate back up so that the system is working properly that smaller housing just might work pretty good. But with the way you have it you're just creating more problems with it than your'e solving. You have a percieved increase in performance only because it spools faster but you're cutting it down on the mid and top end because of the bottle neck of the smaller housing.
GTS-thanks for the lesson, but Joe wanted just what he got. Low end response at higher elevations. He didn't like the delay with the 1.00 housing-and he knew the trade off would be increased drive pressures. Could he adjust the wastegate more? Maybe.

Here is a review of the .84 housing with stock injectors:
LINK
 
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