The Diesel Garage banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I have had to replace the radiator in my truck 4 times in the last year. I pulled the original one out to have it fixed cuz it had a small leak and the fins in the inlet corner were just rotted right off, so the shop told me I'm better off replacing it. I have gone through 3 and on my 4th rad from The Zone. Thank god for lifetime warranty! So the last time they told me there had to be something else that keeps causing the seams on the top tank to keep blowing, like the truck is building too much pressure or something. Everything cooling system related has been replaced in an attempt to fix the no heat problem I've been battling.

Now I'm trying to figure out if I should replace the head gaskets or what. I would like some definite answers as to whether its the gaskets or not as I really can't have the truck down for a super long time. How can I test to verify that it is the HG or not. BTW I have no other symptoms of a head gasket either.

What else could possibly be causing this?

Any input would help me greatly, thanks
 

·
Aimless Wanderer
Joined
·
929 Posts
Ok so I have had to replace the radiator in my truck 4 times in the last year. I pulled the original one out to have it fixed cuz it had a small leak and the fins in the inlet corner were just rotted right off, so the shop told me I'm better off replacing it. I have gone through 3 and on my 4th rad from The Zone. Thank god for lifetime warranty! So the last time they told me there had to be something else that keeps causing the seams on the top tank to keep blowing, like the truck is building too much pressure or something. Everything cooling system related has been replaced in an attempt to fix the no heat problem I've been battling.

Now I'm trying to figure out if I should replace the head gaskets or what. I would like some definite answers as to whether its the gaskets or not as I really can't have the truck down for a super long time. How can I test to verify that it is the HG or not. BTW I have no other symptoms of a head gasket either.

What else could possibly be causing this?

Any input would help me greatly, thanks
I've never had much luck with Autozone parts in general.

If you have the correct pressure cap on your radiator, it would relieve before blowing a seam in the radiator. Pressure caps tend to relieve early as they age and do not allow pressure build up as high as when new.

You should probably look for another radiator supplier and chalk this one up to experience as I did.

If you are experiencing no heat in the cab, try checking the water control valve in the heater core line, the vacuum, or electrical controls/servo motors on the blend air doors under the dash, and control switch assembly. All of these are failure points as vehicles age.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
yeah no doubt. they already told me this was the last one they were going to warranty for me, which is fine cuz it was going to be the last one a got from them anyways.

the cap is brand new and should be the correct psi
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
If you are experiencing no heat in the cab, try checking the water control valve in the heater core line, the vacuum, or electrical controls/servo motors on the blend air doors under the dash, and control switch assembly. All of these are failure points as vehicles age.

all my heat stuff is cable operated. i do get heat but after it runs for a while or gets ran on the hwy for a trip then its real warm in the cab
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
381 Posts
A few questions; can you see bubbles in the radiator? I'm guessing you drive it for awhile before the tank blows. Have you checked the thermostat? Maybe pull it out & see what happens.Has it ever hydrolocked? Do you get water out the exaust? Good chance one of the hg's is rusted out toward the water jacket. If that is the case, you would not get water in a cyl., or out the exaust. Not much else to cause your problem.---Bob:fishingboot
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
A few questions; can you see bubbles in the radiator? I'm guessing you drive it for awhile before the tank blows. Have you checked the thermostat? Maybe pull it out & see what happens.Has it ever hydrolocked? Do you get water out the exaust? Good chance one of the hg's is rusted out toward the water jacket. If that is the case, you would not get water in a cyl., or out the exaust. Not much else to cause your problem.---Bob:fishingboot
yeah it takes about three months before the radiator goes. I have let the truck run for about and hour without the cap on and never really noticed any bubbles. the tstat is brand new from the dealership so i wouldn't think that would be the problem? I also have not noticed any water out the exhaust other than what i would assume to be condensation?
also to my knowledge it has never hydrolocked
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
I'd have the cap tested. 4 bad radiators seems unlikely......1 defective cap seems possible.
 

·
Aimless Wanderer
Joined
·
929 Posts
I'd have the cap tested. 4 bad radiators seems unlikely......1 defective cap seems possible.
The radiator support in those trucks is weak in design. With both the diesel engine, and the road shock of operatiing the truck, harmonics are set up in the front end that actually "scrub" rubber gasket seals out between the radiator core and tank due to flimsey construction, or crack solder joints. This coupled with the heat and cooling cycles are what is detrimental to long life of his radiator.

I've seen both soldered all metal radiators, and metal core with crimped plastic tanks in the application and most anything vendored by the aforementioned corporation is of sub standard quality in construction.

You do however still get what you pay for.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
yeah i thought it strange that the radiator bolts directly to the core support without any bushings or anything.

as far as the radiator cap goes-- i had put a new one on the original radiator and kept it for the first two aftermarket rads. when i went to replace the third radiator i put on a new cap and hoses at the same time to (i thought) eliminate any other issues with the radiators.

maybe it is the core support?-- any ideas on what to do in this situation?
also still possible to be head gasket?
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Hey weld engineer--- where you at in MI? I'm in Lansing for the next few months
 

·
Aimless Wanderer
Joined
·
929 Posts
yeah i thought it strange that the radiator bolts directly to the core support without any bushings or anything.

as far as the radiator cap goes-- i had put a new one on the original radiator and kept it for the first two aftermarket rads. when i went to replace the third radiator i put on a new cap and hoses at the same time to (i thought) eliminate any other issues with the radiators.

maybe it is the core support?-- any ideas on what to do in this situation?
also still possible to be head gasket?
Replace the lower insulators that isolate the radiator support to the frame rails. New will be much softer than your existing aged ones which will have hardened. Radiators should be isolated via rubber from the radiator support also. Rigid mountings are a recipe for disaster; the likes of which you are experiencing.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
Hey weld engineer--- where you at in MI? I'm in Lansing for the next few months
Mason about 10 miles south. I have a hunch your in the pipeline business.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
i have brand new polyurethane bushings on the cab and the core support... they are about 2 years old


weld---- no i'm actually here for my wife that's about to graduate from cooley around august... then it back home
 
  • Like
Reactions: Weld engineer

·
Aimless Wanderer
Joined
·
929 Posts
i have brand new polyurethane bushings on the cab and the core support... they are about 2 years old


weld---- no i'm actually here for my wife that's about to graduate from cooley around august... then it back home
Get rid of the polyurethane at the radiator support! Those are much harder in shore durometer hardness than the original rubber isolators. They are about as flexible as a piece of steel tube in there.

It is mostly road shock that is placing fatigue into and through the radiator. I see this a lot with the "off road" crowd. The polyurethane bushings and isolators are good in some applications, but the radiator support on an Ford F series is not one of them when not using a heavily built radiator. Put either a "Griffin", or "Advanced Thermal Products" under that hood and it will probably never break again if taken care of but be prepared to pay a kings ransom for one at the front.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Get rid of the polyurethane at the radiator support! Those are much harder in shore durometer hardness than the original rubber isolators. They are about as flexible as a piece of steel tube in there.

It is mostly road shock that is placing fatigue into and through the radiator. I see this a lot with the "off road" crowd. The polyurethane bushings and isolators are good in some applications, but the radiator support on an Ford F series is not one of them when not using a heavily built radiator. Put either a "Griffin", or "Advanced Thermal Products" under that hood and it will probably never break again if taken care of but be prepared to pay a kings ransom for one at the front.
Ok So I Should replace the poly bushings under the core with basic rubber ones. After that I should be good to go? now as far as the rad goes.... will the one I have be ok as long as I get those bushings switched?
 

·
Aimless Wanderer
Joined
·
929 Posts
Ok So I Should replace the poly bushings under the core with basic rubber ones. After that I should be good to go? now as far as the rad goes.... will the one I have be ok as long as I get those bushings switched?
I wish I could say yes but cannot given that I know you to have what I suspect, (being nice here) a substandard radiator in place.

Modine makes a substantially better aftermarket radiator as a less expensive alternative.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I wish I could say yes but cannot given that I know you to have what I suspect, (being nice here) a substandard radiator in place.

Modine makes a substantially better aftermarket radiator as a less expensive alternative.
i kinda knew when going to az that their parts are starting to lessen in quality, but where i wok has an account with them so we get a good deal on parts.

i'm hoping that once i can get the time and funds to purchase the new rubber mounts that it takes care of it.

if by chance that the radiator is already weak by design and starts leaking after fixing the issue--- where and how do i go about getting one of the modine radiators? i have a buddy that can get me a deal on a BE COOL but not sure if i wanna throw 850 in for a radiator!! and that was with his deal from knowing the people that run the company:wtf
 

·
Aimless Wanderer
Joined
·
929 Posts
i kinda knew when going to az that their parts are starting to lessen in quality, but where i wok has an account with them so we get a good deal on parts.

i'm hoping that once i can get the time and funds to purchase the new rubber mounts that it takes care of it.

if by chance that the radiator is already weak by design and starts leaking after fixing the issue--- where and how do i go about getting one of the modine radiators? i have a buddy that can get me a deal on a BE COOL but not sure if i wanna throw 850 in for a radiator!! and that was with his deal from knowing the people that run the company:wtf
If the current installed radiator is the type with the plastic tanks, any radiator shop can recrimp the fingers that hold it together. If it is an all metal radiator, it is possible to resolder the connections, or tubes that have broken.

Carquest is a vendor of Modine cooling products but I'd certainly try to get some usage out of the one currently installed.

I think those insulators are about $30.00 or so for the set. Get both the upper and lower sets complete. You can reuse the existing bolts and washers and only squeeze the rubber tight enough to be barely wider than the washers. Do use new locking nuts, (nylocks). These really need to be able to flex a bit to do the isolation for vibration. When those trucks were new and I was still in the business, the problem you are experiencing was very common before getting out of warranty. Until the source cause of failure was identified, it was a struggle to keep them from leaking. Ford's answer? Bars Leaks, and other cooliing system sealers. In other words: Put a Band-Aid on it rather than facilitate engineering changes which ultimately did happen.
 

·
Junior Member
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
If the current installed radiator is the type with the plastic tanks, any radiator shop can recrimp the fingers that hold it together. If it is an all metal radiator, it is possible to resolder the connections, or tubes that have broken.

Carquest is a vendor of Modine cooling products but I'd certainly try to get some usage out of the one currently installed.

I think those insulators are about $30.00 or so for the set. Get both the upper and lower sets complete. You can reuse the existing bolts and washers and only squeeze the rubber tight enough to be barely wider than the washers. Do use new locking nuts, (nylocks). These really need to be able to flex a bit to do the isolation for vibration. When those trucks were new and I was still in the business, the problem you are experiencing was very common before getting out of warranty. Until the source cause of failure was identified, it was a struggle to keep them from leaking. Ford's answer? Bars Leaks, and other cooliing system sealers. In other words: Put a Band-Aid on it rather than facilitate engineering changes which ultimately did happen.
Oh I'm definitely going to get as much use outta this one as possible. btw its brass and copper radiator. i guess i didn't so much mean funds available as time cuz im making a trip to jeffs bronco graveyard and getting a whole bunch of stuff to get the truck ready for the new paint job and will be picking up new bushings then. glad to hear that it's most likely a design flaw in the core support and poly bushing combo than the head gaskets though for sure!!!:happymugs
 

·
Aimless Wanderer
Joined
·
929 Posts
Oh I'm definitely going to get as much use outta this one as possible. btw its brass and copper radiator. i guess i didn't so much mean funds available as time cuz im making a trip to jeffs bronco graveyard and getting a whole bunch of stuff to get the truck ready for the new paint job and will be picking up new bushings then. glad to hear that it's most likely a design flaw in the core support and poly bushing combo than the head gaskets though for sure!!!:happymugs
When you have it out next time and before running the retaining bolts into the radiator support, apply felt, or thin rubber strips between the mounting flange and the radiator support. This will believe it or not, work well for the dampening of small, but high frequency vibrations.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top