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Dually Club #3
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Discussion Starter #1
The following issues is on my 06 6.0l listed below. I changed all the charge air cooler boots about 2 months ago with a set from Riffraff Diesel. I pulled my 15K 5th wheel several times in the last 2 months with no issues. About a month ago, I started hearing a different sound from the engine. It sounded like the turbo but was a cross between normal turbo whine and a screeching. It comes and goes and has no bearing on boost levels. I have heard it at no boost and all the way at 25 psi. Then the trouble started this weekend. I was pulling my 5th wheel up the hill (several 8000' passes) and the boot off the turbo blew 5 times. The metal boost tube just popped out. I had my daughter get a new boot from from with new clamps. Put the new one on and within 1/2 mile it popped off again. Put it back on and decided to make one more attempt at the pass. This time I kept my boost under 10 psi and was able to make it. I crested the passes at 10 MPH at times with this limitation but I was able to make it. So while I was camping, I got some silicone sealant and "glued" the tube in the boot. The truck sat all weekend and today I needed to drive home. Went up several of the passes and kept my boost at below 20 psi with no issues on the first three passes. The at teh top of the last big pass, it blew again. Had to limp home with a busted boot and kept my boost under 5 this time. So the question is, why is my boot keep blowing off? Is it related to the sound? I have no OBD codes and am now at a lose. Please help
 

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Old Fart
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889 Posts
Don't use silicone to 'glue' the boot to the tube. Clean the boot and tube very well and apply nothing before installing the boot to the tube. This is a dry fitting. The clamp will hold it.
 

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Dually Club #3
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2,674 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I did install dry. I cleaned the boot (brand new) and the tube and it still blew off. I was just trying to get the truck home when I used the RTV.
 

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Senior Member
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1,324 Posts
I've never had an issue with my BD boots even taken the turbo one off several times. They advertise that they will hold at 100 psi with their clamps.
 

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Junior Member
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Riff Raff boots do not have the internal bead that locks the boot to the groove in the pipe. I am also using BD Diesel boots and clamps.
 

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Senior Member
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I had the stock OEM boot blow off the turbo at very inconvienent times. Pulling a trailer thru a very congested highway and lose all power really sucks. I put BD on and not one issue since - that was 3 years ago. I really like their clamps much more robust than OEM.
 

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Senior Member
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I've been running the RiffRaff boots for a while now with no issues.

IMO, you need to figure out the screeching sound. As you posted, the boots were fine until you started hearing the new sound. Do you have a way to monitor boost? I'm not familiar with the BanksPDA.

Are you still running the PCV? Inside of CAC tubes oily? I had terrible problems blowing off the oem boots. They'd get oil soaked because of the PCV system allowing an 'oil mist' into the intake system. By the time Ford figured out they needed an oil resistant inner layer on the boots/hoses, I'd already moved to the RiffRaff boots.

Anyways, I'm betting you're overboosting....
 

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Junior Member
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If you have the stock plastic cold side tube, check it for cracks.
 

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Dually Club #3
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2,674 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
CIVICRR, The banks PDA is a monitor system that allows me to see several engine parameters. I can read boost and it has been around 15-20 when the tubes blew off. I still have the OEM PVC system as I have to smog in Ca. Yes the inside of the tubes are oily. I cleaned it off the best one can on the side of the road with glass cleaner. I replaced the factory OEM boots in June from degradation from oil and heat. I went to the RiffRaff boots. Those were fine for a almost two months. Then Thursday when this happened I put an OEM boot back on. Also the first time the boot blew today, the RTV was still intact as the boot ripped from the cured RTV.

JSM180-I have already had the plastic boost tube replaced with a metal tube duie to cracking.

So the question of the hour is what is causing the boot to blow off. I do not believe it is the type of boot as I had two different types blow off and at least one has been proven (OEM had 100K on it). So am I overboosting? Can these turbos overboost and still give a normal reading? I am leaning towards my turbo is failing internally and this is a result...
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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1,296 Posts
Pull the tube and clean it with Dawn dishwashing soap and hot water. Sounds silly, but Dawn is a heck of a degreaser. I clean the silicone boots with aerosol carburetor cleaner on a clean shop rag. They should feel sticky to a clean oil free finger tip.

If you haven't replaced the clamp, I'd suspect the clamp is stretched and not holding properly. If the loops for the T-bolt and the pivot are getting close to touching, replace the clamps.
 

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Junior Member
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So the question of the hour is what is causing the boot to blow off. I do not believe it is the type of boot as I had two different types blow off and at least one has been proven (OEM had 100K on it). So am I overboosting? Can these turbos overboost and still give a normal reading? I am leaning towards my turbo is failing internally and this is a result...
Quality boots and clamps installed correctly will hold a higher psi than a stock turbo is capable of. You should also throw a code for over boost.
 

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Senior Member
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I would think the screech is an air leak some place. I agree with JSM180. BD states there standard boots will withstand 75 psi of boost. I'd call Riff Raff and see what they say. I have an analog boost gauge and scangauge for boost and VGT %. Look the connections over and make sure your turbo isn't loose I noticed my bolts loosened on it after a shop worked on it. I had to tighten all of them and used some thread lock. It has to be something simple. I have removed the turbo boot 2-3 times wiped it dry and installed again. Hitting 26 psi is common and never once have I had an issue with the BD boot. OEM I'd never buy one again.
 
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Junior Member
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I questioned RiffRaffs idea of making a boot without the bead on another forum. I don't see how it will stay on without it. This was the reply from one of their reps,
"Because we went way beyond copying the stock design and engineered ours for the application. Plus, we found the a majority of the boots issues came from people not installing correctly and the bead not lining up."

I would try to do a better job of instructing people how to install the hose rather than making it idiot proof at the cost of performance, but that's just me.

After you have everything installed and tightened grab the tube and try to pull it off the turbo.

I put a support from the alternator to the hot pipe for support with the oem hoses, with the BD hoses it wasn't necessary.
 

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Senior Member
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422 Posts
I had trouble with the original boost boots coming off. I solved that problem by adding a jam nut to the clamps. I now have the Riff-Raff boots. I've had no trouble with them coming off; I still use the jam nuts.
 
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Dually Club #3
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2,674 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Update:

I pulled the turbo today and disassembled it. The unison ring was completely stuck, had to pry it off. The slot the pin sits in for moving the ring has quite a bit of wear on it. The shaft has radial slop of several thousands. So I am for now going to assume that the boot blowing off was due to overboost. I did not have any codes for overboost though. So my question for everyone is, I would like to put a performance turbo on the truck. I have studs, tuned, and I tow a 15K trailer. The one thing working against me is I live in Ca and must meet CARB emissions.Does anyone have a recommendation for a turbo that meets all these requirements?
 

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Senior Member
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It's good the boots did blow off. It must have peaked and luckily you had a built in safety. Even with studs over boost can be a bad situation.


Search the site for Powermax I know several guys run them. You will need custom tuning. Harry6.0 has one and I believe has a write up about it.

Glad you figured it out.
 
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Dually Club #3
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Discussion Starter #18
You will have to forgive my ignorance with turbos. I really have not paid much attention to them as I live in Ca and have to pass smog. So I have found the Garrett GT3788A to be what I think I can run. Still waiting for clarification on weather it is CARB compliant. Any help on this would be very helpful!!!
 

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Stuck in Commiefornia...
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Being you're in our wonderful state of California, yes, technically the turbo would need to be CARB approved. Here's the thing, smog inspection stations can't tell the difference between the stock turbo and a larger turbo that is a direct drop in. The only issue with the GT3788A is that it has a polished compressor cover. If you want to fix that, scuff it up really good with a scotch brite pad and get a can of flat "cast aluminum" paint. Problem solved. Even if they ask, at that point you tell them it's a remanufactured turbo. You could also run any same frame profile matched drop in replacement Garrett VGT turbo from any other vendor in the country, it can be a hybrid of a Duramax turbo and a Powerstroke turbo, as long as the compressor cover says Garrett and it bolts in place of the stocker, you'll be fine.

The secret to passing emissions in CA is make it look legal, make it sound legal, and when you test, shut your mouth and play dumb, don't volunteer information. I've run more illegal combinations under random smog tech's noses than you'd believe. As long as it is visually legal, they don't care that your 302 is a 347, that the compression is 12.5:1 and not 9:1, or that the cam isn't the one the CARB sticker went with. ;)
 
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