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· Junior Member
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My cheap plastic rear window slider latch broke on my 08 F350. After several years I found a replacement latch. C.R Lawrance produces a kit that worked on my truck. Kit DVL4AD. For $20.00 usd. I ordered my kit from amazon.
It required a little modification but worked with no problem. The OEM latch Was a cheap moulded plastic part with two folded hinges that was destined to break.
The DVL4AD kit comes with a latch base. And a catch that requires some delicate mounting. Drilling two small latch catch mounting holes near the pasanger window frame was fun. Tapping it was a load of fun. But the bottom line is it looks good and works.

· Junior Member
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Detailed installation of a F-350 rear slider window Latch and Latch catch

Edited detailed installation of a F-350 rear slider window Latch and Latch catch
This is just intended to be a reference guide. To Help, not a perfect guide. I'm cant be responsible for anyone's lack of users skill level, lack of understanding, lack of experience or lack of material handling. If it looks to complicated for you. DON'T DO IT. The following, are the steps I used to install my locking latch on My 2001 F-350 Ford Super Crew rear sliding window. It's just how I did it. For gee whizz reference purposes.
Tools and supplies I used:
C.R. Lawrance DVL4AD latch kit (amazon)
90% rubbing alcohol (walmart pharmacy)
Acetone (a quart will be more than enough)
clean disposable rags (I didn't use red shop rags the acetone will transfer the dye to surfaces being cleaned)
Pliobond contact adhesive. (ACE hardware)
Loctite Rear view mirror adhesive #37438 (recommend 2 kits)(local automotive store)
variable speed drill
3/32" drill bit
#1 Philips head screw driver
channel lock (tongue and grove pliers)
Work utility gloves 1 pair
Nitrile gloves (a few pair I used 5)
Dremel tool with cut off wheel
E6000 clear adhesive (Walmart crafts and hobby department)
Fine tipped Sharpie permanent


My cheap OEM plastic rear window slider latch broke in 2005, on my 2001 F350. After many years of searching, I found a replacement latch that would work. C.R Lawrance produces a kit that worked on my truck. Kit DVL4AD. For around $20.00 USD. I ordered got my kit from Amazon.
My installation was not straight forward. It required a small modification. It needed two small 3/32" holes to mount the Latch Catch to my slider windows aluminum seating "C" channel. (this is thin aluminum "C" channel, is located where the passenger side edge of the slider glass seats, when the slider window is completely closed.) So, from the inside of the cab looking out to the tail gate. If you open your slider to the right you will see the "C" channel exposed, on the left side of the slider window opening (the vertical edge).
The DVL4AD kit comes with a latch base, Latch, Latch Catch and 3 small screws. The correct position of the holes was is the hardest part of the installation for me. It required thought and planning and delicate drilling. To complete the installation, I Drilled two small 3/32" latch catch mounting holes on the slider window "C" channel. This took a delicate hand, the window frame is very thin. The screws provided, self tapped into the 3/32" holes. But the bottom line is it looks good and works great.
Years ago when my OEM latch broke. I removed and cleaned the area where the OEM latch was mounted. I used acetone and a utility knife blade and a clean rag to remove the guck left by the OEM mounting crud.
So, I thought I would post a more detailed account of my latch installation adventure

Ok, here goes!

1. Planning. I worked out where I wanted the latch and the latch catch to be mounted.

2. I temporarily mounted the latch catch. (I wore nitrile gloves! This part can get messy I had few pairs of nitrie gloves on hand, I purchased at my local automotive store) The latch catch has a small raised edge that helped me align it on the inside "C" channel vertical surface. The latch catch is a little wider than the channel so it hung over a bit. (I used Pliobond contact cement, because the stuff holds firm, I used a VERY small amount of Pliobond contact cement. I purchased a small bottle from ACE hardware. (Amazon sells it to)) (WARNING if you use Pliobond it can be very messy, I had plenty of acetone and rags on hand to help clean up when finished and incase I had an accidental spill.) I applied a small amount of pliobond, to create a thin film of glue on the surface of the "C" channel, just to the length of the latch catch. Then I applied a thin coat onto the latch catch bottom surface. I waited 5 min for both to become tacky. I press on and held the latch catch to the "C" channel. I held it in place for 1 minute. Once in place it set, the pliobond prevented the latch catch from slipping out of place. This was very time consuming and very labor intensive. but it worked out well for me. (I'll try to remember and post a couple of pictures for reference, at a later date)

3. I now used the latch catch holes as a template to drill the two 3/32" holes for the screws provided in the kit.

4. I removed the latch catch and cleaned off the glue from the latch catch and the "C" channel. I pulled off most of the contact cement by hand and used a small rigid wire to help scratch the rest off. I finished cleaning the latch catch with 90% alcohol and a rag. I wiped the "C" channel free of the remaining pliobond residue with the 90% alcohol as well.

5. The DVL4AD latch kit comes in pieces, you must snap the latch onto the base. First slide the spring of the latch into the spring grove on the base edge, now I centered the latch slot onto the base pivot point. I used a pair of Channel lock pliers (tongue and groove pliers), and old pair of utility gloves to snap them together. I put the latch and it's base in the cuff of the glove and snapped them together with the pliers. The glove kept the pliers from scratching the base or the latch surface.

6. I put on a new pair of nitrile gloves, I opened the first Loctite Rear view mirror adhesive kit and followed the instructions. I used the activator ampoule on the latch catch bottom surface and on then on the aluminum outer surface of the "C" channel. Where I drilled the holes to mount it. Both mounting surfaces were treated with the activator.

7. After the waiting period I applied the adhesive to the bottom of the latch catch, I used the mounting screws and positioned the latch catch into its place on the "C" channel (I was very careful not to over tighten the screws. I didn't want to strip the small aluminum holes out). For some reason I tried to close the window. It was a good thing, I found out the screws now were blocking the window from closing completely in the "C" channel.

8. I got out my Dremel tool with a cut off wheel attached. Very carefully, I cut off the excess screw length. I cut the screws off flush, with the inside surface of the "C" channel.

9. I then finished off the latch catch installation by applying E6000 clear adhesive flush on the small screw holes on the latch catch. (this will keep the screws from vibrating out)

10. This step was Extremely important! I closed the slider window closed all the way. I Placed the latch and base assembly on the window and over the latch catch. I centered the latch and base over the latch catch and made sure I had about a 1/16" clearance at the top and bottom of the latch catch in the latch recessed area. I also allowed a couple hairs clearance for the leading edge of the latch to go over the latch catch. Once in position on the window over the latch catch, My helper traced the latch base on the outside of the window with the Sharpie. (The Permanent marker wiped off the glass using 90% rubbing alcohol and a clean rag when i was finished.)

11. With the base location marked on the outside of the glass. I remove the latch and opened the slider window. I used my nitrile gloves again and a clean rag. I cleaned the surface of the base location. I used acetone and a clean rag. It was Important I stayed inside the base location box that was traced on the exterior side of the window. Now use the emery cloth, 2000 grit to prep the surface of the mounting location. Once I did this, I cleaned the latch base mounting location on the glass again with acetone. I then closed the window to its complete closed position.

12. I used the emery cloth on the latch base mounting surface. Again after sanding, I cleaned the latch base surface with acetone.

13. I opened the second mirror adhesive kit and put on a fresh pair of nitrile gloves. The mirror adhesive instructions are extremely important. If they are not followed to the "T" the adhesive will fail. Yes I learned the hard way! I applied the adhesive as instructions read. (correctly the second time) I applied the activator to the base mounting surface and to the glass mounting surface. I stayed in the traced base location on the window. After waiting the instructed amount of time in the instructions. I applied the adhesive to the Latch base. I started in the middle and worked the glue out to the edges covering the entire surface. I centered the latch to its location. I made sure all the clearances were made as well. Once it was held steady in place for 1 minute. I walked away. I left it in place over night.

14. The next day I the latch firmly in place. I opened and closed my window. I cleaned up the excessive adhesive that ran down the window with a razor and alcohol. Cheers and good luck!

I posted this because I found no other site anywhere, which supplied the DIY guy any insight on how to repair this issue. It's has now been done! Use it at your own risk! Thanks For Reading!

AMERICA! :usflag

· Junior Member
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did find out there was another way to fix this latch. The only other way to fix it was to Pay SafeLite Auto Glass $750.00. For that price, you get a new latch and a complete New rear cab window assembly. My 26 year old son worked there a couple of semesters, while attending college. He said they do not sell the replacement rear glass panels separate. Just the whole rear window assembly as one glass unit.
So, If you ever lock your keys in the truck and don't have a spare on you. Personally I'd break my driver side window out. It's only $155.00 installed. Not $750.00 thats before installation.

· Stuck in Commiefornia...
1,298 Posts

· Junior Member
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OEM window latch

The origional latch that came on my truck was a two fold cheap plastic pos. It broke off at one of the two folded hinge flaps. It was no way as robust as the one I installed.
According to the dealership parts Ford has never sold an OEM replacement. Only after market latches. The Ford Answer was replace the entire rear window.
My son worked for safelite as a window installer. Safelite did not have any repairs for it either. There answer was the same as Ford. Replase the whole rear window assembly.
Idahoe if your window hat that kind of latch. It was replaced at one time. It could be when new it was dammaged in transit. The replacement windows featured a latch like the one you recommened to me.
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