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Discussion Starter #1
I read some previous posts and hoped someone could help me with a specific problem. I have an 03 f350 dually with the 6.0 PS turbo.
The engine bucks around 40-50 mph but I can step on the gas and it accelerates thru it. Then while maintaining speed at 40,45,50 it'll start bucking again. The engine runs very rough upon start up, and sounds like it may skip at low idol too. The engine seems to take a few extra cranks to catch and then takes a while to warm up. I checked the codes and get P6075 gp circuit/gp2. Then I cleared the codes
Although I haven't cleaned the egr valve for about a year, my thoughts on the bucking was that it was injector related, and the slow/hard starting was gp related. I put HotShots in and new oil/filter (rotella t 15-40 and motorcraft). I've driven maybe a 100 miles since oil change and still get the bucking. I retested the codes and now I get P6072 coming from the opposite side and not p6075 Wtf. I'll change fuel filters next but I'm not so sure it's going to help. Still for the price, I'll do it for piece of mind.

I realize that if the bucking is from stiction then 100 miles isn't much time for the hotshots to work but I'm concerned that it may be caused from something else.

As far as the glow plug codes go, do you think that the harness itself is bad? The gpcm or the plugs?
I don't have a multimeter to test the plugs and have limited mechanical experience.

Having said that, I am skilled in construction and am not afraid of taking this on without going to the dealer. Especially if it will save me a couple grand...
What are your thoughts on the two problems?
Thanks guys. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Cheapest tool you can buy is a Scangauge II and get more info about engine vitals.
 

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Like Weld mentioned, the ScanGaugeII is a must have for these trucks. It can read most all the critical data needed for diagnosing a 6.0L PowerStroke.

You may have multiple fault areas causing your symptoms.

The 15w40 oil even with the hotshots is not ideal if you have injector stiction issues. A thinner grade oil works better, like a 5w40 or 10w30 diesel rated motor oil for cold start injector oil flow.

When you first get the truck started, does it smoke badly? White smoke? Black smoke?

My guesstimate of possibilities at this point...

1. one or more faulty injectors

2. stuck/dirty egr valve

3. turbo vanes sticking or worn turbo

4. glow plugs need testing, should all ohm out below 1.2k ohms when they are cold, they can be ohmed out from the glow plug module harness connector for the glow plugs, glow plugs are only active for the first few minutes of cold start up and are a non issue once the engine is running beyond that. You may have a bad GP harness.

5. faulty FICM, should read 47-49v if it's healthy, bad FICM can cause bucking-jerking-hard starting etc...ScanGaugeII can read this and much more.

http://www.scangauge.com/
http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge/ford-specific-xgauges/

With the ScangaugeII hooked up and programmed with the Ford 6.0L diesel X-gauge commands, you would want to watch your FICM-main power and ICP-psi and IPR% during cold start.

When driving down the road you would want to watch your FICM / Turbo vane position% / boost pressures /

Make sure the obvious is in good order, like clean fuel and air filters.

Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm getting white smoke out of the pipe when I start it. Once it warms up the smoke lessens to a normal/minimal amount. While driving, if I increase the rpm to speed up and the truck down shifts I'll get black smoke from the tail pipe.

Is this abnormal?
 

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I'm getting white smoke out of the pipe when I start it. Once it warms up the smoke lessens to a normal/minimal amount. While driving, if I increase the rpm to speed up and the truck down shifts I'll get black smoke from the tail pipe.

Is this abnormal?
White smoke is normal steam condensation burning off if it's first started in cold weather.

White smoke is not normal if it's first started in warmer dry weather and the smoke smells like raw diesel fuel or coolant.

Black smoke is over fueled cylinder-s that occur from too much fuel being dumped into the cylinder-s like from a faulty injector-s or not enough airflow or turbo boost to properly burn the fuel on hand.

There are so many variables that can cause many of the symptoms you are experiencing. You may want to consider having the truck diagnosed by a reputable local 6.0L specialist that has a well known positive track record for working on these motors. A 1 hr diagnostic fee if properly diagnosed can save you tons of money and help you decide which route to go on the repair process.

Also, if you have a bad injector-s that is dumping fuel into one or more cylinders, it is not something you want to prolong in repairing, as a bad injector can ruin any diesel engine and is the most common cause of melted pistons and ruined cylinders.

Good luck and keep us posted on your outcome, were all here to help and learn.

Harry
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I'm looking into the scangauge and will get it. It seems like a great thing to have. Also, if I have fuel related issues in a cylinder caused by a malfunctioning injector, would I have a code hinting toward this? I have been using a obd2 reader. You're help has been awesome. Thank you
 

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Alot of times a bad injector will throw a cylinder contribution fault code, but not always.

A bad FICM can also throw a low or high injector circuit fault code, but not always either.

Once you get your ScanGaugeII and program in the X-gauge commands for the Ford 6.0L diesel, then we can see whats going on with some of the readings.

By the way, once the X-gauge commands are coded in, they are always in there to scroll through and look at.

The only thing that does not have a sensor to monitor is primary fuel pressure. The only way to monitor this is with a gauge tapped into the secondary fuel filter housing area on top of the engine next to the oil filter housing, or install a sender and electronic gauge like many have including myself.

Primary fuel pressure should never drop below 45psi or injector damage can occur after prolonged running with low fuel pressures. I have seen a worn regualtor spring running at 25psi. If you install a blue spring fuel pressure regulator upgrade kit it will bump your fuel pressures up into the 60-65 psi range on average, or even as high as 72psi like mine is. This keeps the fuel pressures in check inside the fuel injectors and aids in a cushioning effect for the moving parts like the intensifier piston inside the injector.
The blue spring kit is easy to install and very inexpensive for what it does, I highly recommend it. Heres 2 links below for 2 different ways to do this, I did the complete kit on mine which is also available form the Ford dealer...
http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/242.html
http://www.mkmcustoms.com/fordbluespringupgradekit.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAiAxNilBRD88r2azcqB2zsSJABy2B96kzxsCY_w28mfE3BYUK7BOCkYXGUIXQwAswzv4b41EBoCER_w_wcB

Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It'll take me a couple days to get the scangauge. But I will post my results as soon as I get it hooked up. Thank you for your help
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've got the scangauge, new fuel filters, blue spring kit and EGR o-rings on the way. I should have them next week and will clean the EGR valve and install everything next week. I'll let you know what the scangauge says and my results are. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I put new fuel filters in, installed the blue spring kit and put in 8oz. of RevX. I'm still waiting on the scangauge.
The truck seems to start quicker. I've only got about 30 miles with the RevX in but the engine sounds completely different. Much smoother and it even sounds quieter than it did before.
But now I'm getting a more consistent exhaust from the pipe that smells like diesel. I think it's gray but I'm not positive on the color. I've been letting the truck idol more than normal to circulate the RevX. Can that cause build up in the exhaust? Or maybe if an injector was freed up from the RevX and increased fuel pressure, it would cause an increase in the exhaust for a little while?
 

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The increased idling time should not have an effect on causing the grayish smoke. It shouldn't smoke when idling even if you idled all day long and everything was in good working order.

This leaves the below possibilities...

1. leaking worn injector that requires replacement to resolve (especially if the exhaust grayish smoke smells like raw unburned diesel fuel)

2. partially stuck open egr valve (causes incomplete combustion and grayish or even black smoke because too much intake air is diluted with exhaust gasses)

3. low compression in one or more cylinders (low compression can cause the problematic cylinder to be unable to burn the fuel and produce grayish smoke that smells like raw diesel)

4. weak ficm that is unable to properly activate the injectors

Those are my best guesses at this point. But if you indeed end up having a bad injector-s that is dumping raw fuel all the time (this is what it sounds like is happening to me) it's very important that this gets fixed as soon as possible, many engines have been lost due to a bad fuel injector.

Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: Thank you
It's been a week or so but I was able to get my truck looked at by a professional. As you suggugested, I have a misfire in cylander 4 (-20 reading on cylinder 4 and all others were 0). It is smooth for a while and then Skips for a while so it's misfiring intermittently. A new egr valve seems to have solved the minor smoking issue and since the blue spring kit went in, the truck fires right up hot or cold. Even without being plugged in.

I plan on replacing the injector myself on Monday if the cape doesn't get the 12" of snow that is predicted. Because the injector seems to work well sometimes and misfire sometimes, what are your thoughts on removing it and cleaning the spool valve, tip and plungers, put on a new gasket set and reinstalling it? Any tips on cleaning methods? Or would you avoid this all together? I realize a reman warranteed injector is best, but since it's only my time that will be wasted I'm willing to weight the risk vs. reward if it's worth it.
Thanks again for your time and thoughts
 

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Honestly, because you already tried the hot-shots and rev-x treatments with no resolution, I would most definitely plan on replacing the injector. Many different parts of an injector can fail, either mechanically or electrically or the internal seals where the oil rail plugs in.

Always replace the injector orings and combustion seal when installing a new-reman injector.

Ford reman is the best because they replace the spool valve, but is also the most expensive.

Jesse Warren has many different choices of afforable injector sets, but that isn't what you need, but you could call him and ask if they would sell one, plus he has a good reputation.
http://www.warrendiesel.com/index.html

Well at least we know the culprit now, inj 4 is the second one back from the front on the drivers side.

Harry
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I just replaced the no. 4 injector and now the truck won't start. I understand I need to cycle the key to build fuel and oil pressure, but how long should this normally take? I've probably done 20 cycles of cranking with no success. The truck puffs white smoke while cranking and has quickly caught then died when I gave it a shot of either. I know either isn't good but I was hoping it would help pull in fuel.
I'm charging the batteries now and am worried about damaging something. It seems like too much cranking without the truck running.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got a little pissed at the situation and took the truck apart to retrace my steps and see if I was missing something. In doing so, I took the valve cover box off and saw that the hose had become disconnected from the rail. I guess it wasn't fully seated prior to putting everything back together the first time.

After a second attemp at attaching the hose, the truck started right up. Now I'm hearing a gurgle and feeling a rattle/vibration when I step on the pedal... Wtf
 

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It can take awhile to get all the air purged from the high pressure oil system and that may be the stutter-vibration your experiencing upon acceleration. Go out and drive the truck for a half hour or more and then see how it runs.

With your ScanGaugeII (if you have it already), whats the reading for ICP and IPR values at warm idle?

Harry
 
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