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Discussion Starter #1
I have yet another problem with my engine swap..... The tranny is about 3 inches front from where it last was. This truck has 2 driveshafts, one maybe like 4ft and has the carrier bearing, and the other has the slip joint and is like 8ft long. The slip joint had been just about all the way together, so by the tranny moving forward, that was no problem, and probably made things better. The front driveshaft is connected to the tranny, but the carrier bearing has run out of its 'adjustment' The holes where it mounts are slotted, and I need about an inch more, maybe 2. Is there a such thing as an offset carrier bearing mount?

Rodney
 

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I have yet another problem with my engine swap..... The tranny is about 3 inches front from where it last was. This truck has 2 driveshafts, one maybe like 4ft and has the carrier bearing, and the other has the slip joint and is like 8ft long. The slip joint had been just about all the way together, so by the tranny moving forward, that was no problem, and probably made things better. The front driveshaft is connected to the tranny, but the carrier bearing has run out of its 'adjustment' The holes where it mounts are slotted, and I need about an inch more, maybe 2. Is there a such thing as an offset carrier bearing mount?

Rodney
Your going to have to retube some drive lines.
 

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Senior Member
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Just use 2 pieces of angle iron , parrelell to the drive shaft bolted to the frame bracket and the bearing (4 bolts )
 

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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #5
Just use 2 pieces of angle iron , parrelell to the drive shaft bolted to the frame bracket and the bearing (4 bolts )
I like that idea. The actual driveshaft lengths are the way they should be. The carrier bearing is really close to the one yoke, and that crossmember is the frontmost one - I'm not sure how I could make an improvement by making a new driveshaft.

Rodney
 

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I would have the tube cut and re welded. The shop near me would charge about $150-$200 to cut,weld and re balance if I just drop it off at their shop.

but either way will work for you.

Just my .02
 

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Ol Dirt Contractor
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Anytime you adjust placement of drivelines you need to be sure the plane angels of the joints are equal. If one u-joint is up 10 degrees from center line the opposing joint should be down at 10 degrees. Spicer makes a tool to do this, I've got one in the shop.

The reason for that is so the joints roll or break at the same time thus damping out the vibration. Normally transmission and rear end yokes are parallel so carrier height and angle would be adjusted to plane each yoke on both sides of the carrier.

Incorrect angle is the most common source of driveline vibration.

http://www.spicerparts.com/measuring.asp
 

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Anytime you adjust placement of drivelines you need to be sure the plane angels of the joints are equal. If one u-joint is up 10 degrees from center line the opposing joint should be down at 10 degrees. Spicer makes a tool to do this, I've got one in the shop.

The reason for that is so the joints roll or break at the same time thus damping out the vibration. Normally transmission and rear end yokes are parallel so carrier height and angle would be adjusted to plane each yoke on both sides of the carrier.

Incorrect angle is the most common source of driveline vibration.

http://www.spicerparts.com/measuring.asp
That is some advice alot of guys just dont get. Ride height is also very inportant.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the info! I'll have to be sure to see how my 'modification' will affect the driveline height at that point. I know the idea above will change the angle a little, cause the mount will be about 2 inches to the front, and maybe 1/4 or so lower - so the angle at the tranny will be greater, and the midpoint angle will be lower.....

Rodney
 

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This is still the 200 miles (or so ) a year truck isn't it ??
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes it is. I won't go thru too much trouble for this thing, but if I can do things better without much trouble, I will, cause I want it to last.

Rodney
 

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I would be more inclined to remove the cross member and reposition it. Leave it free, air it up, mount the steady bearing, drive shafts, until you get the angles all correct. Eaton or Alison has a great program to get it right the first time.
You have done a lot of work to get it this far getting the shafts sitting in the right position is the easy part, drilling a few holes and remount it when it is in the right position. Some shop in your area should lend you an angle master, and run the numbers for you.
Just a thought!
 

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I have a tri square like a carpenter would use with a adjustable angle head and a bubble in it. This works good like a anglemaster.It tells you in degrees when you have it set what it needs to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I looked things over today, and because of the hoist for the dump, I can't move the crossmember. However, I think I can heat and bend the support for the carrier bearing. I know this will make it higher as I move it front, but the tranny is now higher as well, so it might work out being close to the same.

Rodney
 

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If there is room you can put in a piece of heavy wall 3 inch channel iron as the mount and two pieces of 3 inch angle iron mounted with two bolts on the frame and you have it done. 14 holes to drill.
I would not be heating a cross-member.
Just a thought!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm not going to be heating/bending a cross member. There is a 'support' that is bolted to the crossmember, that the carrier bearing bolts to. I'm going to either bend that, or do the angle iron trick like mentioned above. I have it 'mounted' loosly with one bolt and the angle iron right now and the angle at the u-joints look really good. I will have to double check to make sure before I go any farther. I am finding that a lot of the things that I am doing is undoing some real shoddy prior work. So far I am confident that this is a vast improvement over the way things were. Granted, it was good that I had a donor truck of the same model, and this required lots of work, but it was worth it.

Rodney
 
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