[tribaltrans]

Ok, so I am just about complete with all my repair's. I start it up, perfectly, no hesitation nothing..But the key won't shut it off..Which is all new last year..SO, I shut off my batteries, still running. I disconnect the fuel pump, BOTH wires, still running..Ok, what's left? Alternator, NOPE I disconnected BOTH POS/NEG..still running. I had to stall it out..This has happened before and I cut the frame side wire and it stopped, no more.
Questions(s):

Is there possibly something that won't let the engine shut off until possibly oil temp is up to a predetermined level ? I think not since there is no computer..
Is there a reverse voltage through ground that allows it to continue to run when all possible electrical connections are removed, ie Batteries and Alternator?
Little help here, diesel isn't getting any cheaper....:help

I should ad, I hear the solenoid click on the outside (frame side) of the pump when I put power to it when I am trying to troubleshoot this issue..as in power applied/removed. Thanks for the help..

 

[Johnp3]

Many of the "A"s were air shut down.

 

[OldHoods#1]

Is it a 12/24 series parallel starting system?

 

[OldHoods#1]

The reason I ask is, I have a '82 W900A w/a 92u motor. It had just started doing the same thing just before I parked it. never took the chance to determine the problem. I knew I was parking her soon, so I just clamped a pair of vice-grips on the rod on the side of the governor, flipped the hood open & pulled the rod counter-clock ways to shut her down.:damnit Pretty durn lazy, I must admit!

 

[tribaltrans]

Everything I can tell is 12V, I haven't looked at my starter which as you remember is doubtful as when it gets below 30 degrees it won't start without a boost from my van. My batteries haven't been replaced in 4.5 years so I'm leaning that way..
Hoping to hear from Ynot on this one. Prob the governor solenoid is sticking open but I even rapped on it a few times to no avail. I've driven all day, pulled in to park or fuel and it doesn't cut off, sometimes, multiple flicks on and off of the NEW ignition works..sometimes I have to stall it out if I really need to shut down. :roflol:

 

[tribaltrans]

Many of the "A"s were air shut down.

Care to ad some detail on this? Where would I look to confirm?
Thanks,

 

[379Longhood]

Some 92U s were equipped with normaly run solinoids, (needed power to shut off) most of these had engine stop buttons on the dash, but some may have had a oil pressure looped relay in the key curcuit.

Remove your shutdown solinoid and see if it is spring loaded pushing out or if it wants to stay in until power is applied. there is nothing that will fall out or anything .

Most solinoid failures are, no start , because the spring pushes the rack fully closed and the solinoild retracts to alow rack movement. the racks "normal position is low idle, the shut down either solinoid pushes it closed by spring, solinoid , or some times air .

 

[Johnp3]

If on the back of the governor you have an air line going to it you have air shut down. The units I worked on had that set-up and needed air pressure to shut them down, if you have a solenoid, and wiring then it is electric shut down.

 

[OldHoods#1]

Care to ad some detail on this? Where would I look to confirm?
Thanks,

12 volt would have (most likely) 4 batteries w/ 6 cells a piece. 12/24 would have four 6 volt batteries having 3 cells a piece.

 

[tribaltrans]

If on the back of the governor you have an air line going to it you have air shut down. The units I worked on had that set-up and needed air pressure to shut them down, if you have a solenoid, and wiring then it is electric shut down.

I have an airline going to the intake manifold ahead of #5 cylinder going to the top of Fuel Pump, I have a single wire from ignition to solenoid bottom front outside, another wire from ?? going to top front against the engine..
any information helpful..oke

 

[tribaltrans]

Some 92U s were equipped with normaly run solinoids, (needed power to shut off) most of these had engine stop buttons on the dash, but some may have had a oil pressure looped relay in the key curcuit.

Remove your shutdown solinoid and see if it is spring loaded pushing out or if it wants to stay in until power is applied. there is nothing that will fall out or anything .

Most solinoid failures are, no start , because the spring pushes the rack fully closed and the solinoild retracts to alow rack movement. the racks "normal position is low idle, the shut down either solinoid pushes it closed by spring, solinoid , or some times air .

Since you mention it, I at one time had starter button problems where I would have to push it multiple times to start..Looks like I need to start there. Can it be disassembled and cleaned? :happydance

 

[ynot]

Should be a normal "key on" shut-off with a relay; if not it has a stand alone push button kill. But as stated, A's were Kyser air-over shut-offs. They were a normally open system, as in, they are powered to kill it and non-powered running. 12 volts opened up the air solenoid to pull on the "Y" bellcrank. The lever they pulled on sits in a dry housing so they can stick just like the 3208 with the same housing. check to make sure the bellcrank lever moves fore and aft under spring pressure. If not it has to come apart.

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84226

If it moves OK, check the plunger on the solenoid to make sure it goes in and out when shut-off is activated with both air and 12V hooked up. It's one of the two problems that causes that.

 

[tribaltrans]

Should be a normal "key on" shut-off with a relay; if not it has a stand alone push button kill. But as stated, A's were Kyser air-over shut-offs. They were a normally open system, as in, they are powered to kill it and non-powered running. 12 volts opened up the air solenoid to pull on the "Y" bellcrank. The lever they pulled on sits in a dry housing so they can stick just like the 3208 with the same housing. check to make sure the bellcrank lever moves fore and aft under spring pressure. If not it has to come apart.

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84226

If it moves OK, check the plunger on the solenoid to make sure it goes in and out when shut-off is activated with both air and 12V hooked up. It's one of the two problems that causes that.

Im just gonna check the obvious, get a couple loads delivered and head to to Iowa..Beer, sandwiches..music...and a few bucks...Thanks Tony... :damnit

 

[ynot]

Im just gonna check the obvious, get a couple loads delivered and head to to Iowa..Beer, sandwiches..music...and a few bucks...Thanks Tony... :damnit

Most welcome :happydance

 

[tribaltrans]

Today I replaced the canister fuel filter with a spin on, while doing so, my wrench hit the solenoid and arced..NO KEY in ignition..think maybe I found my short or bad solenoid, which I think is inside my dash..drivers side.. there is what looks like an air line running into the front of the fuel pump coming form underside..will track down in am, or later actually it's already am...here...
:usflag