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I was told by a mechanic that I should change the oil when it is warm. Now I see 2 problems: Burns when it gets on my hands, and the oil is still in the top of the engine. I am experienced with gas engines and it is always change it when it is cold. This is so you get out all the metal, because it all drained down in the pan.

My question is what has the pros told you?? I would think after the engine is cooled and sitting overnight. But again this is my first diesel. Oh and I do fill the filter with new oil, so starting is not dry.

Also does anyone use Amsoil or Lucas as an additive? Any additive worth it or are they just snake oil???

Thank you for any of your help.
 

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They tell you to change when warm because after the engine has been running and it is hot the oil has collected all the dirt that may be in your engine and helps to drain it all out. Keeping your engine cleaner. when your engine sites for a while the dirt may make a rind around the top of the oil pan where it stops and if it was not running some time before that it will stay there and help make your freash oil dirty faster.
Also I sell amsoil and use it in my trucks. I love it. If you have any Questions ask me. I can help.
 

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Diesel oil has alot of soot in it, it flows better hot If you change your oil every 4k it shouldn't be to bad so drain when you want. If you want to get all the crap out "anal" Put marvel mystery oil or some tranny oil "Quart" Run at idle for 5 min then drain! Super clean!
 

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tcr1016 said:
I was told by a mechanic that I should change the oil when it is warm. Now I see 2 problems: Burns when it gets on my hands,.
Take it to your local oil change place and let THEM burn their hands! :smoke:

I get my oil changed for around $40 using Rotella 15W-40. Not worth doing it myself at that price! :Thumbup:
 

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I change oil either cold or after the vehicle has sat for a couple hours so it is cool(er).

Two thoughts on this... Hot... all the contaminants are suspended in the oil... That is what the Detergent Dispersant package is for... you just got a lot of oil all over the parts of the engine that has the dirt suspended in it. After an engine is run, the oil clings to parts for quite some time.

Cold... all the oil is back down in the crankcase with the contaminants ready in suspension to flow out the drain plug.

Tests have shown that either way will work... I don't like blisters and I don't like minimum wage workers touching my stuff.

Doc
 

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The hot recommend came from NONdetergent oil, old habits die hard

Leave the drain plug out for 1/2 hour or so to get all the oil, either hot in the top of the engine or cold in the pan.

The antique flush was a fully warmed up engine brought in and quart of kerosene added while the warm engine idled for 15 min. It was then drained and all of the other service done, then the plug put back in and the oil added. It took longer for the oil to turn black. It was packaged in a quart oil can with the big label 'Engine Flush' and the contents stopped at kerosene and detergent.

keydl
 

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I'm rather smart...

Mopar1973Man's Web Site said:
Engine temp should be at least 140ºF - 160ºF to aid in draining
I only run my truck till the coolant is right about 140-160*F which the engine oil is close to that temp but cooler... So my hand never get burned... Then pull the pull out and leave if for a long while to ensure getting all the crap out...

But to aid in keeping the crankcase clean I've got a Frantz bypass filter. Basically a toilet papre filter. It works awesome to control the soot levels and keep the oil cleaner longer!

Frantz filter write up
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/2002 Dodge/BOMBS/frantz filter/Frantz.htm
 
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