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Junior Member
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, As my user name implies I am Fixin It Myself. I have enjoyed reading lots and lots of threads and have learned alot. When I get my truck running again, I will post a detailed story of all my problems and what I did to fix them.

Briefly...
ICP sensor and harness fixed under warrenty.
Two injectors .... out of warrenty.
Alternator and Waterpump within 2 weeks of each other.
Intermitant computer crashing. Found wires on ICP sensor harness shorting together.. poor repair job by dealer.



My latest problem is I don't have any oil pressure. I removed the test port on the front of the oil cooler to connect a pressure gauge. After a few trips to the store, I finally got all the correct fittings. Before I connected the gauge, I cranked the engine to see if I was getting any oil.. got none.

So now where do I look and how do I get there?

I'm suspecting the oil pickup tube or pressure regulator. There isn't much else that could fail. Has anybody used a tiny camera to look up the oil drain hole? If I had a camera would I be able to see the pickup tube?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Premium Member
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what year truck??
Did it just happen out of the blue or break down?
 

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Junior Member
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Its a 2003 6.0. It broke down shortly after waterpump change.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
After much studying of pictures and diagrams, I plan on pulling the lube oil pressure regulator because its simple and easy to get out. If all ok there, I will go after the lube oil pump. It looks like the fan and harmonic balancer pully have to come off to get to the oil pump. Typically what goes wrong on the oil pump? After both of these checkout, the only thing left is the oil sump pickup tube. To get the oil pan off does the engine need to be raised? Is there a trick to raising the engine off its mounts? Is there a way to test to see if the sump is clear without pulling the pan? Maybe blowing down the pickup tube when the pump is removed and hear bubbles in the oil pan. Might have to rig up something for this. If I get that far I'll take pictures.

Why would there be residual oil pressure in the high pressure oil rail? I would think that the pressure would be long gone if I was trying to start the engine. With no lube oil getting to the filter, the high pressure reservoir wont get any oil either.

Its late... more fun tomorrow.
 

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HalfAst Racing
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456 Posts
The low pressure pump rides against the aluminum front engine cover housing.that was a mistake by international in my eyes.if trash made its way to the pump,or the pump flat out failed,expect to at least replace the pump,pump cover,and front engine cover.hopefully you didn't lose a lifter or anything,then you're looking at a full build.you're on the right track with checking the regulator first,i haven't heard of too many failures of the reg. but you gotta start simple.
 

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On the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump can blow out causing loss of base oil pressure.
 

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Junior Member
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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Here is an Update,

I pulled the lube oil pressure regulator and found no evidence of a pump malfunction. Nothing but clean oil came out.

I then looked into the oil filter housing and it was empty. I then cranked the engine for 10-15 seconds and got fresh oil in the filter housing. I suspect that the oil drain in the bottom of the filter housing is stuck open.

Does anyone know the exact path and in what order the oil takes once it leaves the oil pump? I know it goes to the oil cooler and the oil filter but in what order? Also, where does the temp sensor, pressure switch and test port connect into the oil passages?

I tried blowing air into the test port and it came out in the filter housing. This leads me to believe that the passages are clear. I will try blowing air in other places to see what happens.

I wont be working on my truck tomorrow (Saturday) because its my birthday and we are going to the lake for a BBQ and water skiing.
 

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HalfAst Racing
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456 Posts
Here is an Update,

I pulled the lube oil pressure regulator and found no evidence of a pump malfunction. Nothing but clean oil came out.

I then looked into the oil filter housing and it was empty. I then cranked the engine for 10-15 seconds and got fresh oil in the filter housing. I suspect that the oil drain in the bottom of the filter housing is stuck open.

Does anyone know the exact path and in what order the oil takes once it leaves the oil pump? I know it goes to the oil cooler and the oil filter but in what order? Also, where does the temp sensor, pressure switch and test port connect into the oil passages?

I tried blowing air into the test port and it came out in the filter housing. This leads me to believe that the passages are clear. I will try blowing air in other places to see what happens.

I wont be working on my truck tomorrow (Saturday) because its my birthday and we are going to the lake for a BBQ and water skiing.
the lpop pump may be moving oil,but is it making pressure?the oil filter would be my first check,but unlikely the drain back can relieve all the oil the lpop can move(its very small).a pump with huge clearances can still move oil,but when asked to make pressure it falls short.what bugs me is if it moves oil to the top end,the hpop takes it from there and would then pressurize the hpo system.the pressure put out by the lpop doesnt matter to the hpop until it sucks the reservoir dry.thus it would fire and die.something else to think about.when you cranked the engine to check for oil pressure at the test port,how long did you crank it?most 6.0s dont even build low pressure oil until 3-5 seconds after firing....thats why you get the delay of the hiss from the turbo when you first start it up,no oil pressure to control the vgt actuator.you may be barking up the wrong tree with your line of diag.have fun on the lake its raining and storming here:wtf
 

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Junior Member
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Discussion Starter #12
Thats interesting. When the waterpump was changed, I had the shop also change the oil. I don't know where they got the filter. I suppose I should get another one and try it..... what could it hurt?

If this fixes the problem, could somebody coach me on how or if I have any recourse against the shop that did the work? Their own mechanic couldn't find the problem.

More tomorow.... By The Way... the picnic was Great!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
More update....

I pulled the oil filter and looked into the housing with a flashlight. I saw the drain plug. I gently removed it with long nose pliers. Its a plastic piece with two springs. On the back side of the fitting are three "legs" These keep the fitting in place when the filter is removed. Mine only has two legs.. one is broken off. Because of the missing leg I think it may have not been seating properly when the filter was installed and thus relieving the oil pressure back to the crankcase.

None of the local auto parts stores had the part so I will call Ford in the morning.

I'm curious, if all is working OK and the HPOP sump is dry and the filter is dry, how long should I crank the starter to allow the lube pump to fill the filter and prime the HPOP so the injectors will begin delivering fuel?
 

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203 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well I called the dealer today and they could not locate the oil filter drain valve. They faxed me a really poor diagram and circled a part. I called him back and had him read the description. He described the anti drain back check valve which is a completely different part than the filter housing drain. So….. I improvised. I removed the spring that opens the valve when the filter is removed. I will have to remember to use a long needlenose pliers to pull the valve next time I change the oil filter.

I also got a new factory filter and a factory cap. I held it up to the old one and they were dramatically different. The old one was about ¾ inch shorter which was not long enough to close the drain valve. Now the engine makes 70 psi while cranking.

One problem solved so many more to go.

Now it still won’t start. How long does it take for the HPOP to make pressure once the engine oil pressure comes up? I rigged up a soda bottle with oil and plumbed it to the oil pressure test port. I used air pressure to force about a quart into the engine hoping it would fill the HPOP reservoir.

I’m working on an interface to the ICP sensor. I suspect it will be ok. If the ICP doesn’t indicate any pressure I will get a mechanical high pressure gauge and actually measure the pressure.

I read somewhere that the tach should indicate something while cranking. If it doesn’t the cam position and/or crank position sensors may be at fault. My tach reads zero while cranking. Whats the trick to get to the sensors? The crank sensor seems to be buried low on the right side. The cam sensor is on the left and should be easy enough to get to. Any tips on how to check the sensors electrically? The wire harness at the PCM is accessible.

More later…..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Today's Update...

The ICP and HPOP are working!! I connected a volt meter to the sensor wires and measured th esensor voltage while cranking the engine. According to the 6.0 bible, the pressure is over 700 psi which even if my readings are off a bit its still above the 500 psi minimum.

I'm now curious about the water in fuel light. The light is on. I opened the drain on the HFCM and captured the fuel in a clear bottle. The fuel looks completly normal... no signs of water. I pulled the plug on the WIF sensor and the light wont go out. So whats the trick to getting the light to go out. Also, if the light is on, will the computers prevent the engine from starting? I also disconnect the cable harness at the PCM (J1) and checked the circuit to the WIF sensor. All was completly normal.

While I was checking electrical circuits, I disconnected the center connector (J2) on the PCM and connected an ohm meter to the CMP and CKP sensor circuits. I didn't know exactly what to expect but if the sensor is working I would expect to see some change in resistance as the engine cranks. If the circuit was open I wouldn't see any resistance at all.

So now it STILL WONT START!!!! AARGH!!!

So lets review..
ICP 700+psi while cranking. HPOP OK. Engine oil pressure 70 psi while cranking. Injectors buz when key on. Fuel pump running. Fuel in small filter on top of engine. No tach reading while cranking. WIF light on. No codes.

What am I missing????... Frustrated!!
 

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The HFCM cover plate can get corroded and gunked up. This will make the WIF stay on. Replace the cover plate.
 

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Also, you should see rpms when cranking. Sounds like you may need a CKP sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the advice on the WIF sensor. I'll take it apart and clean everything.

Just for kicks, I shot some ether into the intake and she started. Coughed and belched a few times but she ran. While running I checked the ICP volts, reved it up to about 2k and measured 1.38v ( = 1130 PSI). What should it go to? Tach was working. Crank and Cam sensors (CKP and CMP) are working because if either don't work the engine wont run. Lube Oil pressure >80. Engine running kind of rough. Sounds like one bank of jugs isn't firing. Black smoke at exhaust when reved up.

Will disconnect ICP and try again tomorrow. Also will check volts etc at Glow Plug Control Module.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How best to check the injectors? All I have done is hear them buzz when the key is turned on.
 
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