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Discussion Starter #41
What year trucK? If you don't mind having your truck down for awhile, then I would start digging into it. If you don't find anything, then at least you will know alot more about your truck than when you started. Don't forget to clean everything really good before reassembly.

I made the decesion to dig into mine because I was tired of watching other mechanics guess at the problems at my expense. Then when they happened to guess right, they just put it back together, dirt and all. Never did anyone offer or do anything to address the root cause. Their answers were "Oh the blah blah thingy failed. Its Bad". My questions were always why do you think that part is bad and how did you prove it.

The two most usefull things I did was to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the test port of the oil cooler, and relocated the ICP to the top of the engine and installed a high pressure hydraulic gauge.

Are your symptoms similar to mine and others?

I assume you checked the simple things like:

Does your dash oil gauge indicate oil pressure after a long crank? about 30 seconds
Is there oil coming into the filter houseing?
If you have a 5000psi hydraulic pressure gauge, connect it where you put the air in, crank the engine and see if you get any pressure. It takes at least 700 psi to fire the injectors reliably.

If you a satisfied that you have checked the simple things then its time to dig in. One thing I did that really helped when it came time to put it back together was to label everything. Blue masking tape and a Sharpe pen work great. I used paper cups to put all the nuts and bolts in. I wrote on each cup how many bolts and where they came from. It sounds silly but trust me, you will forget where stuff comes from. I also took lots of pictures. I had to look back at some pics to remember how some things went together.

Good luck, and let us know how its going.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
My update..

Truck starts and runs good. I measured the ICP volts and plotted the pressure gauge readings at various RPM settings. The actual pressure tracked the ICP voltage just like I expected. Do these readings look normal? I don't know what the pressures are supposed to be at various RPM.

RPM ICP Volts Gauge PSI
0 .211 0
600 .914 700
1100 .990 800
1500 1.124 1000
2000 1.302 1100

One thing I noticed is the hydraulic pressure pulsates really fast. The needle doesn't sit still but vibrates rapidly. While holding the gauge by the hose, you can feel the pulsations. Are these pulses caused by the injectors opening and closing? I think so. Probably completly normal but I don't like it. Rapid changes over time can cause undo fatigue and stress on all the hydraulic parts. By my calculations, at 600 RPM there are 2400 pulses per minute or 40 pulses per second. At 2000 RPM there are 133 pulses per second.

Plan for tomorrow is to finish putting all the fan shrouds etc back together and take it for a drive.
 

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I've got to give you credit, nice work there Fixinit. I don't know the pressure values scale, but someone on here must. Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #44
One Last Thing... To tow the truck home with my tow bar I disconnected the drive shaft at the rear differential. Now I can't find the torque specs for the bolts. The 6.0 bible has specs for the engine. Where can I find torque specs for the rest of the drive trian?
 

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Good Morning. Yes I used a 1000 psi gauge first at no start and it would only get to 400 psi. I have low presuse oil checked that. Thats when I put the shop air to it. I have a 2005 f350. I use ziplock bags to but everything in...lol they work well too. I'm new to site did not know how to post a new posting. Thanks Have a great day.
 

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Hi Fixit. What 6.0 bible are you talking about? I tryed to find a book up here ( edmonton Canada ) but could not just on the 6l Were did you or what is the book called and who prints it? Thanks Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
The 6.0 Bible is available on this website under the 6L Stickys section. I have spent countless hours reading thru this book. Everytime I read thru it I get some new tidbit of info. Lots of good info and pictures too. Its about 90 pages but well worth the time to print a copy. You might want to save the files and take them to a good print shop and have them color printed.

There are two links to the book. The 6.0 Bible section has each page indivdually. 25MB per page. There is another section that has a link to the same book but its only 10MB for the entire book.
 
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Discussion Starter #48
Another Update on my truck....

Took it for a drive and it works fine.

At 3000 RPM, foot to the floor, 60MPH and rising fast, the ICP is about 3800 PSI. I think my leaks are fixed!!! At idle the ICP is about 800 PSI.

Cant wait to see what she does under heavy towing.

My next project is to connect a datalogger interface to monitor all the vital signals. I suppose I could use some sort of scan tool and read everything from the PCM but I don't have one. So I will use what I have.

Any Suggestions.....?
 

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This is by far the craziest post I have ever read. I can't believe you stuck to your guns and got her running again. GREAT JOB!:nunu:
 
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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks,

I hope I am an inspiration to others who are tired of getting ripped off by the dealers.

I just kept telling myself "Its only a machine and machines CAN be fixed!!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
More updates.... Is this ever going to end??? Ugh!

Drove about 360 miles. Uneventful except started to hear what sounds like an exhaust leak. Also the turbo action seems to be a bit weak. While going up hill and accelerating the ICP pressure climbs as it should but the power just doesn't seem to kick in. After several seconds I get a surge of power and then as long as I keep my foot in it, all the way to the floor, the power seems real good like normal. If I let off the throttle and then get back on it, the process starts all over again.

I'm thinking the Turbo needs some attention. I hear that they can get sticky and not operate smoothly. Is it just a matter of taking the turbo apart and cleaning carbon and rust etc and then reassembling? Or is there more to it?

I should have inspected the Turbo more closley when I had it out to work on the High Pressure Oil problems.

I found the exhaust leak. Its on the Y pipe. Is this repairable by a good TIG welder or is it a replace item?

I'm going yank the Turbo and see what I find and not worry about the exhaust leak until I get back home.
 

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Ford Doctor has a good tutorial on cleaning the Turbine Side & Variable Vanes of the
Turbo charger - 6.0L Turbocharger Reconditioning

For those that asked about the 6.0 Bible here a LINK to it - 6.0 Bible

as for a data logger...I recommend AutoEnginuity, itll graph and log ALL the FORD CAN
network sensors that a "generic" OBDII scanner doesnt even know EXIST -
ITP Diesel (now sinister diesel) is the cheapest place to buy the AutoEnginuity FORD Enhanced/CAN bundle - CLICK HERE

this page from the bible shows the relationship between the ICP voltage and the ICP Pressure...not EXACTLY what your
looking for, but it will provide SOME insight. I know the IPR "pop-off" pressure is 4000 psi & i thought there was a graph
of it too in the 6.0 Bible but cant find it to attach it at the moment.

 

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Discussion Starter #54
Bushpilot, Thanks for the link on the turbo cleaning. I pulled mine apart and there definatly was some rust and junk. I got everything moving freely. Reinstalled the turbo and went for a drive. The boost pressure comes up smoothly but it still doesn't make the high end power that it should. Normal driving around town seems ok.

If EGR cable is disconnected does the valve go open or closed?
 

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IF the egr valve is unplugged (before the truck is started) the
valve remains CLOSED.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Another update...

Drove about 200 miles up & down hills towing trailer. Total weight about 17k lbs. All OK except engine seems a bit rough at moderate power settings. At wide open throttle up 7% grade it ran fine. ICP pegged at 4000 psi. Got to destination and after about 60 minutes tried to restart truck. ICP pressure is less than 300 and engine will not start. Sounds like I got a stuck IPR or another leak. Good thing I brought all my tools.
 

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Man, this would wear on anyones patience/sanity. Hopefully you will get it running. No fun being stuck with a trailer. Keep us posted and good luck. Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #58
To Harry6.0 - Yes it is getting a bit wearing but I just think about all the money I'm saving. I think I would have pushed it off a cliff if I had to pay dealer rates. It has been a big pain but I'm getting alot of satisfation by doing it myself. Thanks to all who have responded with advice and encouragement. Let me say to anyone else who may be contemplating similar repairs... If you have basic mechanical skills and the right tools, then go for it! Save the money you would have spent at some repair shop and buy more tools.

When I left home on this trip I half expected to be fixing something. I didn't expect to be tearing it completely apart again. I'm glad I brought all my tools. I even brought my Honda generator and flood lights just in case I broke down out in the middle of nowhere. I'm thankful that it broke down when it did. We had just pulled up to my parents house when it would not restart.

This evening I did a quick air pressure test (my relocated ICP sensor and hydraulic gauge port came in handy). I can hear air blowing down in the HPOP area again. Cranked engine and it started. ICP pressure looks OK. After about 10 minutes I shut it off and tried to restart it and guess what....No start!!) ICP was only making about 200 psi while cranking.

And so disassemly begins again!! 3 hrs later I got just about everything out of the valley. EGR cooler is all thats left and then the HPOP cover can come off.

After I find the leak, I need to pull the Y-pipe because there is a crack and its leaking. The fire wall insulation has soot stains and you can feel the exhaust escaping if you reach up from underneath. Its also noisey.

Are there any special tricks to getting the Y-pipe out?

I'll post more tomorrow with pictures of what I find.
 

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The cracked/leaking y-pipe is likely your turbo/lack of power issue. Pulling out the rt-front fender wheel well cover can make access to extracting the y-pipe easier. The y-pipe bolts/nuts on the exhaust manifold connections can be rusted in pretty good, some PB-blaster soaking will help. Make sure the turbo down pipe dosen't rub on the y-pipe accordian flex connectors when putting back together. Hopefully the repair of the high pressure pump area is not to bad. I'm wondering what your going to find. Keep us posted and good luck again. Harry
 

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the y-pipe cracking is FAMOUS when working on the motor @ the back...dont know
what that crap is made of but but its brittle (probably cause of the tension), luckily
its not an expensive part (mass products i guess) ;)

what connector are you using on the HPOP ??? International revised the STC
and improved the bracket (to prevent leaks) heres the part number, picture etc.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-10.php

dont know if youve seen these either -
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-17.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-10-06.php
 
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