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I still think he is dealing with a flakey IPR. He is using 100% at 12 volts when I believe the computer max pulse width is set at 50%.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Thanks for the data sheets. The one describing the IPR was exactly what I was looking for.

The switch I was going to connect into the IPR circuit will be wired such that the signal from the PCM will be disconnected before the 12 volts is applied to the IPR.

There is one o-ring that I havent put any test pressure against. Its the one on the top of the discharge tube that goes into the HPOP cover. I will test and inspect it and then go from there.

Then its off to the store to find a socket to make a tool to get the IPR out without having to dismantle everthing.

Pics to follow....
 

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:happymugs I was pretty sure (as I said in post 77 - lol) ......
 

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Thanks for the data sheets. The one describing the IPR was exactly what I was looking for.

The switch I was going to connect into the IPR circuit will be wired such that the signal from the PCM will be disconnected before the 12 volts is applied to the IPR.

There is one o-ring that I havent put any test pressure against. Its the one on the top of the discharge tube that goes into the HPOP cover. I will test and inspect it and then go from there.

Then its off to the store to find a socket to make a tool to get the IPR out without having to dismantle everthing.

Pics to follow....
Folks most commonly buy an extra IPR connector and use it for the testing - so you don't have to cut wires on the one in the truck. I can post a part number if anyone needs it.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Here's the culprit.

The IPR is OK. I was right about the o-ring on top of the discharge tube. I went and took a closer look and removed the o-ring and discovered that it had blown out. No need to pressure test it.

The picture shows two o-rings. The black one is the one I removed and the yellow one is the new one I got today from International.

So why do these stupid o-rings blow out? I'm tired of replacing expensive gaskets just to change a "10 cent" o-ring.

Let the reassembly begin.....!!
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I'm not sure what the material is. Anyone have any ideas?

The black one came from Ford last time I had the engine apart. The yellow one is from International. Guess which should last longer????
 

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HalfAst Racing
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i got yellow ones from ford last time.black or green are usually viton,not sure what the yellow is made of
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Today I wrestled with the intake manifold. It did not want to go back into place easily. Then when I put the Turbo back in I dropped one of the V-band clamp bolts and it fell under the EGR cooler. Can't see it but I can barley touch it. While trying to fish the bolt out I noticed that the right side intake manifold gasket was out of place. So I loosened all the bolts and pried up on the manifold and then I was able to slide the gasket back into place. All in all NOT a real fun day.

I have been trying to figure out why the HPOP o-rings have blown out several times. One thing I have noticed since I put in the pressure gauge on the HPOP system is that there are large hydraulic pulses that you can feel. The first gauge I used was not a dampened gauge and the needle would not hold still but fluttered along with the pulses. Sometimes it would flutter dramatically depending on how much foot I had in it. I now have a dampened gauge which indicates a steady pressure. The pulses are still there but the gauge doesnt show them.

So I was thinking that the hydraulic pulses (caused by the injectors opening and closeing) may be what is causing excessive stress on the HPOP system and thus blowing o-rings. All this hammering has got to be doing no good.

Has anyone ever installed a hydraulic accumulator on the HPOP system to dampen out the hydraulic hammering? I will go to the local Parker Hydraulic shop and get the smallest one they have and see what happens.
 

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I've thought of that myself but never persued. The 03 and early 04 have bad pulsations you can see with a scope. Newer "wavey" oil logs really remove the pulsations. I think this has something to do with the high ICP failure rate, not just from the heat of the turbo.There is a third port on HPOP cover you could use for your trial. Will love to learn what you find. I've also thought that an accumulator on our low pressure fuel system would be great!!
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Got it back together....finally. Turned the key and saw the fuel pressure come up like it should. cycled the key a couple of times to ensure the fuel filter bowl was filled. Then hit the starter. It cranked for about 5-10 seconds and the HPOP pressure came up. As soon as the pressure hit 500 psi the beast roared to life. Cough just a bit as air was getting out of the fuel lines and HPOP lines but then settled down to a purr.

Had one small coolant leak at the little blue hose on the EGR cooler. It wasn't seated all the way. Good thing I only filled it with water. Once I was satisified that there were no more leaks I flushed the cooling system with water until it ran clear. Then drained and filled with real coolant. Took it for a spin and all seems strong.

Does anyone know the torque spec for the four bolts on the drive shaft at the rear end? I torqued 'em to "five white knuckles"

I scoped out a location for an accumulator. Drivers side against the fender well under the washer fluid bottle. Tomorrow I plan to go to the hydraulic shop to see what I can find. Plumbing wont be an issue. I'll add a T at my ICP sensor and run a hydraulic line over to the accumulator. The only down side I see is now there will be about 50 inches of tubing between the HPOP and the accumulator. The tubing I installed for my ICP relocate measure 34 inches. It will be about 20 more inches over to the accumulator. I have a scrap of tubing leftover that I will use temporarily just to see if my idea works. Then once the accumulator is mounted I can measure for a hydraulic hose.
 

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THE SILVER BULLET
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Well I got the truck back together only to discover what I thought were dead batteries. Charged them really good and it still cranks real slow. Battery volts drops to about 10 volts while cranking. Tried another set of batteries too. I think I got a burned up starter.

I attached two pics of the hydraulic line installation. Not very good pics but you can get the idea.
Would you still happen to have the part numbers or description for the hydraulic fittings you used?
Thanks,
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
I don't recall the exact part numbers but what I did you can do too. I took my ICP sensor to a Parker Hydraulics store. Most big towns have one. They have just about every type of fitting you can imagine.

I found the fitting that matches the ICP sensor. Its a Metric size. Then I found its mate with a conversion to a 1/4 inch flare. The tubing is 1/4 inch hardline steel tubing. It has a pressure rating of over 6000psi. Don't use anything less than 5000psi. The normal foot to the floor pressure is around 4000psi.

As it turns out, I now have the truck apart again for a coolant leak between the intake manifold and the oil cooler. Its not fully apart yet so I don't know for sure. I'll start another thread for that issue. If you need some more detailed pics of how I did the ICP relocation I can get some. I think the pics I posted tell the story pretty good.


On another note regarding the blown out O-rings. The O-ring I got from Ford that has flat surfaces rather than just a round doughnut shape has not failed. I think that was the problem that caused all my blowouts after the first HPOP replacement. The Ford Part number is: 3C3Z-9C064-AA


TooManyToys mentioned in another thread that he noticed that the sealing surfaces of the ICP are not being used as intended. That is true. There is an o-ring on the ICP that is supposed to fit down into a machined port. It didn't fit exactly into the fitting but the end of the ICP sensor was flat and it mated up against the inside of the fitting and has sealed nicely. It seals like a flare fitting. I suppose to be a purist I should use the right fitting but
what I found is working and has been for many thousands of miles.
 
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Discussion Starter #96
I found way back in this thread where I mentioned the ICP fitting is a M12x1.5 I found both male and female adapters for this fitting to convert to a #4JIC flare fitting for 1/4" tubing.
 

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I found way back in this thread where I mentioned the ICP fitting is a M12x1.5 I found both male and female adapters for this fitting to convert to a #4JIC flare fitting for 1/4" tubing.
Very interesting thread, patience and persistence; Looking at doing the remote ICP installation. know this is an older thread, but had a couple questions

1. Did you run into any issues with the distance of the ICP sensor from the original location?
2. Did you consider a flex line versus a rigid line?

Has anyone else performed the remote installation, if so any issue?
 
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