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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is mostly for EGT reduction after fueling mods have been done. The stock HX35W has a wastegated 12cm housing that is only gated to 3 cylinders. This mod lets all 6 blow out the gate, and promotes better flow.

I helped a friend do this to his 96 12V 5 spd(215hp). His has a 0 plate full forward, 3k GSK, ScottyII intake, and timing to 15*.

-Take off the turbo
-Remove the 5 or 6 bolts to the exhaust housing(13mm head)
-Remove the cover
-Remove the E-clip from the wastegate lever and flip open the flapper.
-Now drill out the divider with a 3/4" drill bit. You could use a little bigger bit to hogg out the original size, but a 3/4" bit is much easier to find for most people.
-Clean out the shavings
-Re-install the E-clip and the gate flapper.
-Re-install the cover & bolts
-Re-install the turbo, and check for leakage.
If you used oil for the drill bit, it'll burn off really quickly once fired up.
After the mods, he noticed EGT was totally controllable pulling a 2000 pound trailer up mountain passes. Pre-turbo temp readings were said to be, "Very hard to break 1100*". His booost is also controlled down to 36 pounds, where he was hitting 42 pounds before.
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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would it be worth it to do to a bascally stock truck maybe once in a while haul a car trailor and also turned up the fuel a little?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You probably wouldnt notice anything until you have the plate full forward, and/or a different plate. If you have more mods planned, it would be a good afternoon project to do.
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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evently i want too wanna get it rebuild and sled pull with it but cant do nothin much till i get in the marines and get some money jobs round here aint payin good lol
 

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Formerly CursedtoFirst45
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This is mostly for EGT reduction after fueling mods have been done. The stock HX35W has a wastegated 12cm housing that is only gated to 3 cylinders. This mod lets all 6 blow out the gate, and promotes better flow.

I helped a friend do this to his 96 12V 5 spd(215hp). His has a 0 plate full forward, 3k GSK, ScottyII intake, and timing to 15*.

-Take off the turbo
-Remove the 5 or 6 bolts to the exhaust housing(13mm head)
-Remove the cover
-Remove the E-clip from the wastegate lever and flip open the flapper.
-Now drill out the divider with a 3/4" drill bit. You could use a little bigger bit to hogg out the original size, but a 3/4" bit is much easier to find for most people.
-Clean out the shavings
-Re-install the E-clip and the gate flapper.
-Re-install the cover & bolts
-Re-install the turbo, and check for leakage.
If you used oil for the drill bit, it'll burn off really quickly once fired up.
After the mods, he noticed EGT was totally controllable pulling a 2000 pound trailer up mountain passes. Pre-turbo temp readings were said to be, "Very hard to break 1100*". His booost is also controlled down to 36 pounds, where he was hitting 42 pounds before.
i think its a wise idea to also note that you should use air tools when removing the 13mm bolts if at all possible. Most of us have gotten those exhaust housings pretty hot, and its very possible to snap a bolt or two when trying to remove them. I snapped two when switching housings back for my twins....just a precaution, use it as you wish.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, you can do it on a 24V's HX35. You just can't do it to the HY35.
 

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I've got one that has a bigger flapper put on it and a 38 mm hole and the divider cut out. I've never run it but it ought to anything a hx35 can handle in a single or twins.
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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with drillin it out to a 3/4 drill bit what could you do to regain that lost boost by drillin it out you lost roughly 6 pounds couldtn you weld the flap shut?
 

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Welding the 'gate shut will render it useless on ALL 6 cylinders.The smaller turbine housing improves spool up and bottom end torque response and smoke. The 'gate allows it to breathe better on the top end, or under load.

The "lost" boost is from reduced back pressure in the turbine housing, which is a VERY good thing. The lower the boost, the better, to some point. Reduced pumping losses. Better engine efficiency and sometimes better mileage. Boost is pressure. Pressure is created by resistance to flow. Too much boost can be a bad thing.

If you could make 500hp on 20psi, vs 40, be usable and burn clean, the better off you are. :) Boost isn't the answer. Air flow is. :thumbsup
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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Then too you wouldnt have to worry about melting or blowing something if the EGT's were high or blowing a incooler boot!
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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very true!!
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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What is a good way to seperate the wastegate from the turbo, other then having shaving in the turbo?
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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Right! or do you think i could get away with leaving the housing on
 

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off to another home
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it would be best to pull the turbo and pull the housing off to make sure you get everything out. but, if you can get a drill in there and do it, just make sure to vacuum it out good.

Garrett
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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How hard is it to get the housing off?
 

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off to another home
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How hard is it to get the housing off?
pull the turbo off, take off the 4 bolts, start banging on it with a rubber mallet or deadblow. if you can, spray some break free or screw loose or whatever you have onto the crack between the housing and center section. let it sit if possible. it will come off eventually.

Garrett
 

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Let it rip tator chip!
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So the exgaust wheel will come right off with the turbo?
 
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