DT466 sputtering/missing

88329 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by tanky, 2 mo ago

Pitbull Towing

Discussion Starter · Apr 13, 2013

Hi I'm really hoping someone can help. I have a 2003 International 4300 with a DT466. I just had all the O-rings on the injectors replaced along with the wiring harness that goes to the injectors. Now once the truck gets up to running temp it starts to sputter/miss. Truck runs GREAT cold but once warm gets worse. Any ideas anyone?

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

quazimoto

· #2 · Jun 3, 2013 (Edited)

Sputtering....

Hi

Have you the ability to see about any engine codes? Sorry to ask what may seem obvious, but your post doesn't say much other than it sputters and changing o-rings did not work. If no codes what about fuel condition? I always start with simple checks even if they seem well, too simple. I learned a long time ago not to throw parts at a problem without checking the most obvious things. Odd how these obvious things we take for granted are at the bottom of many problems.

Warm running issues make me consider Looking at the wires that connect to relays, sensors, etc. If cracked/broken fix, and clean connections at same can resolve this kind of problem. I recall a time when a corroded ground strap caused a great deal of trouble.

Other than the above there is always injection timing and injector spray patterns/quality which you can move onto if you have the right equipment to test these things. Sorry that there is no obvious issue that jumps out at me with this kind of problem. I do not know the mileage so I can not begin to consider where the life span of this engine is.

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BobWolf

· #3 · Jun 20, 2013 (Edited by Moderator)

Try replacing the engine position sensor its also listed as a crank or cam sensor. Takes less than an hour to do.

The sensor for the 7.3L from Carquest or Napa works fine and saves you about $200.00 from the dealer. The only difference between the two is how light your pocket will be. If its not the issue you're only out 25 or 30 bucks. Had mine go a couple times they usually give up the ghost every 50,000 to 100,000 as long as you don't run too hot and driving conditions. City driving and if your using the truck for recovery work that will weaken them no matter where you buy them.

Look on the front cover just above the main pulley and there it is it has a pointer and a wire harness. Spray some squirrel piss on it, get a cup of coffee, and let it soak in so you don't hog out the threads and use a light hand because the font cover is aluminum. Back out the bolt, CAREFULY wiggle the sensor out, old sensors can break apart so make sure you have it all, and wipe the bore clean. Run your finger on the timing gear see if its sludged up.

Now, smear some petroleum jelly or light duty grease on the O ring side just enough so you don't ruin the O ring and carefully install the new sensor. Run the bolt into the cover and tighten it down, make sure the bolt is tight but use a 1/4 inch ratchet if you tend to be heavy handed a little blue locktite is a good idea for the bolt as it has to be tight. Also check the connector and wire harness. Don't worry about the pointer I think its there for setup when they do major surgery to the engine.

Start the engine and let it run at about 800 rpm five minutes or until warm so the ECM can do a quick relearn.

Hope this dose the trick. Good luck

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Reactions: 2

BobWolf

· #4 · Jun 20, 2013 (Edited by Moderator)

I would also try checking the Schrader valve on the fuel filter housing and see if you are getting air in the fuel when it shuts down you may have a split O ring and engine compression is pumping air into the fuel system. If you have air pull the filter and look for oil contamination.

Also, there is a snap on connector where the fuel line connects to the fuel filter housing disconnect this and check the O ring they tend to hammer a flat spot and suck air. You usually have to replace the O ring and I also recommend using a couple black plastic zip ties to attach the connector tightly to help reduce the vibration on the o ring. Clip off the extra so it doesn't look dumpy. If you have a rock catcher it looks like a float bowl remove it and clean the filter screen and filter housing with brake cleaner.

It doesn't take much to gum the screen up.

Good luck.
Bob Wolf

capitalc1

· #5 · Jul 16, 2013

2000 International 4700 DT466E

We have a huge problem with this vehicle I am hoping someone can help us with. We have a 2000 International 4700 with a DT466E Engine. The engine is new, the injectors are all new, the MAP Sensor is new, the Baro Sensor is new, the Cam Sensor is new, the High Pressure Oil Pump is new, the fuel sensor and regulators are new, the computer is new. The truck will crank, and then go into a limp mode and blow tons of white smoke out of the stack. Any ideas would be appreciated.

kiwigal

· #6 · Jul 18, 2013

BobWolf said:
Try replacing the engine position sensor its also listed as a crank or cam sensor. Takes less than an hour to do.
The sensor for the 7.3L from Carquest or Napa works fine and saves you abbout $200.00 from the dealer. The only difference betwene the two is how light your pocket will be. If its not the issue youre only out 25 or 30 bucks. Had mine go a couple times they usualy give up the ghost every 50,000 to 100,000 as long as you dont run too hot and driving conditions. City driving and if your using the truck for recovery work that will weaken them no matter where you buy them.

Look on the front cover just above the main puley and there it is it has a pointer and a wire harness.
Spray some squrell piss on it, get a cup of coffee, and let it soak in so you dont hog out the threads and use a light hand because the font cover is aluminum.
Back out the bolt, CAREFULY wiggle the sensor out, old sensors can break appart so make sure you have it all, and wipe the bore clean. Run your finger on the timing gear see if its sludged up.

Now, smear some petrolium jelly or light duty grease on the O ring side just enough so you dont ruin the O ring and carefuly install the new sensor. Run the bolt into the cover and tighten it down, make sure the bolt is tight but use a 1/4 inch ratchet if you tend to be heavy handed a litle blue locktite is a good idea for the bolt as it has to be tight. Also check the connector and wire harness. Dont worry about the pointer I think its there for setup when they do major surgery to the engine.

Start the engine and let it run at abbout 800 rpm five minnites or untill warm so the ECM can do a quick relearn.

Hope this dose the trick. Good luck

I had exactly this problem. We are in the middle of a move and cannot afford the downtime. Came across your post and decided to give it a try. Walla! Fixed.... Thank you very much for the idea. 23.00 plus change later we are up and running. :knight

capitalc1

· #7 · Jul 18, 2013

Thanks

We tried this today and unfortunately made no difference. Here is what's going on. The truck will crank and accelerate great, then it begins smoking and goes into a limp mode with little pedal reaction. If you raise the rpm's the smoke goes from whitish grey to dark almost black, but only when you raise the rpm's. We're kinda running out of options here. Most every sensor has now been replaced along with a ton of other parts and still no change. Any other ideas?

kiwigal

· #8 · Jul 18, 2013

I *thought it was fully fixed, but now when driving down the road and giving acceleration, the truck dies. A big puff of black smoke comes out just before it shuts down. Tried the RPM ECM, ran it at 800 RPM which made the oil come down. Now we have the black smoke and dying problem.

kiwigal

· #9 · Jul 19, 2013

capitalc1 said:
We tried this today and unfortunately made no difference. Here is what's going on. The truck will crank and accelerate great, then it begins smoking and goes into a limp mode with little pedal reaction. If you raise the rpm's the smoke goes from whitish grey to dark almost black, but only when you raise the rpm's. We're kinda running out of options here. Most every sensor has now been replaced along with a ton of other parts and still no change. Any other ideas?

Did you replace the O rings on the injectors?

kiwigal

· #10 · Jul 20, 2013

BobWolf said:
Try replacing the engine position sensor its also listed as a crank or cam sensor. Takes less than an hour to do.
The sensor for the 7.3L from Carquest or Napa works fine and saves you abbout $200.00 from the dealer. The only difference betwene the two is how light your pocket will be. If its not the issue youre only out 25 or 30 bucks. Had mine go a couple times they usualy give up the ghost every 50,000 to 100,000 as long as you dont run too hot and driving conditions. City driving and if your using the truck for recovery work that will weaken them no matter where you buy them.

Look on the front cover just above the main puley and there it is it has a pointer and a wire harness.
Spray some squrell piss on it, get a cup of coffee, and let it soak in so you dont hog out the threads and use a light hand because the font cover is aluminum.
Back out the bolt, CAREFULY wiggle the sensor out, old sensors can break appart so make sure you have it all, and wipe the bore clean. Run your finger on the timing gear see if its sludged up.

Now, smear some petrolium jelly or light duty grease on the O ring side just enough so you dont ruin the O ring and carefuly install the new sensor. Run the bolt into the cover and tighten it down, make sure the bolt is tight but use a 1/4 inch ratchet if you tend to be heavy handed a litle blue locktite is a good idea for the bolt as it has to be tight. Also check the connector and wire harness. Dont worry about the pointer I think its there for setup when they do major surgery to the engine.

Start the engine and let it run at abbout 800 rpm five minnites or untill warm so the ECM can do a quick relearn.

Hope this dose the trick. Good luck

Please do not save dollars using this method. Go to the dealer and purchase the correct one. We have fixed our issue by the grace of god! We corrected the error I outlined after replacing filters and other components which did not work. Although we purchased x 2 CPS sensors from Merle's, which we thought had corrected all the problems outlined in my posts. Other issues arose. We then decided to buy direct from the IH dealer a Cam sensor and try that ( 170.00 Plus tax ). It was a long shot! The long shot worked!!!!! We are up and running, two loads done today! Thank you and I hope this helps others..:clap

BobWolf

· #11 · Jul 30, 2013 (Edited by Moderator)

I typicaly get at least a full year of running arround 75,000 miles per year Im now hitting arround 110,000 miles since the change out on the cam sensor, Same as the O.E.M. I paid almost ten times more for five years ago. Maby its good luck, or because the engine is fairly low on miles and hrs for 2002 engine or you may have gotten a bad sensor. Newer blocks mid 2003, 2004 and up can be tempemental especialy engines with V.G.T. Variable Geometry Turbos. Trust me, Ive pulled plenty of wrenches.

Check your engine temps, If you tend to run hot or have power adders you will toast even the OEM sensors. Chase the wire harnesses, and check for other issues as one circiit runs several sensors and when one gets weak or dies they often take others with them.

Bob Wolf.

randal07

· #12 · Dec 29, 2014 (Edited by Moderator)

Sorry for bringing up an old thread, I'm a new member and for some reason the forum will not let me start a new thread even after posting in the introductions. I am having this same problem with a 2003 4300 with 123,ooo miles. The problem started about a month ago. After the truck got to operating temp it would lose power, begin to sputter and blow white smoke under load (smells like raw fuel) and above 1700 rpm. I checked for active and inactive faults and found none, after searching I found that a common problem was the cam sensor. I bought a new cam sensor with shims from international and installed it per instructions with .015" of shims between the sensor and cover.

After the new sensor, I started the truck while it was cold and under slight load it was bellowing black smoke for about 2 min then it cleared up and ran fine until it got to 180 degrees and then it lost power, began sputtering and blowing white smoke under load. I let the truck sit for a day, went out to start it and it had plenty of power and ran fine until it warmed up again. I began to think it could be injectors or injector seals but what is leading me away from that, is that the truck only acts up when warm and after around 1700 rpms. If you slowly start backing off the throttle, all the symptoms will go away except for low power. If you start to give it more throttle, all the symptoms come right back like a switch was flipped.

So far, I have replaced the cam sensor, drained and cleaned the fuel bowl, cleaned sediment filter and replaced fuel filter. I am using a snap-on pro link to check codes and readings and the fuel pressure it is getting matches up with the desired fuel pressure. I am thinking that something is causing the timing to be retarded when the engine is put under load after it warms up which is causing the low power, sputtering and white smoke with raw fuel smell. Thanks for any help.

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SchoolBusTech

· #13 · Mar 28, 2016

I am having a similar problem with a 2005 Dt466 in a school bus. The WARN ENGINE light is flashing in the odometer and on the dash. The injectors have been changed 6 months ago, new ICP sensor, Battery cable connect are new, Wires at the starter have been cleaned and inspected. I have removed every connector and inspected and cleaned. I have good oil pressure 67psi. The ICP is at 875 at idle. The Cam Sensor has been replaced with an International sensor. I have a new IPR coming today. I have the international ServiceMax software and there aren't any codes stored. The engine runs smooth but will have a random miss while driving. It has never stopped running and pulls hard. The WARN ENGINE light is the only light that come on. I hate throwing parts on this thing. Looking for suggestions.
Thanks

faithhealthgroup

· #14 · 6 mo ago

Any fixes

tanky

· #15 · 2 mo ago

my 98 t444e was hesitating, stalling, and running fine.
computer diagnostics button said cam position sensor
i changed it with a cheap one from auto zone
end of problem
i ALWAYS troubleshoot first
check youtube also
cam sensors are notorious failures
doesn't your dt have diag. codes???
wow

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